CarTrailer build

[SuperBuickGuy]

getting closer to the end


get it up so I can climb under it


and there we go






it is most definitely red

[STINEY]

Paint looks good from here. You are making me want to build another trailer, lol. Nice work.


Oh, and question. What is the logic behind the diagonal braces at 4 places along the main framework?

[SuperBuickGuy]

the trailer tilts.... so there's a frame under the frame so it doesn't collapse when you load the trailer. Eventually this gets a hydraulic lift ram, so the under portion needs to be pretty stout

and much closer

[silver_bullet]

Dats purdy!

[STINEY]

I get the diagonals for the tilt subframe....... its these I am not following.

Maybe tie-down mounts?

[SuperBuickGuy]

it strengthens the bed

[milner351]

I'll be interested to hear what this thing weighs when complete with the tilt cylinder set up - did you check out surplus center for rams?

[SuperBuickGuy]

I checked with them - I'm not to buying stage yet, and frankly, I'm looking for something used and cheap
trailer weight guess is 1500 lbs maybe just a touch over/under... add the hydraulic of maybe 200 lbs and there ya go.
I also used engineered plans for a 12,000 capacity trailer - while it has 3500 lb axles under it now, I probably will go with 5k axles eventually. That said, nothing I own right now will overload the trailer....

Lights


i don't like them but I'm not buying new ones until they break (which happens annoyingly often)



yes, trailer brakes and controller.... brakes on both axles (required in Washington) and with how cheap they are.... would be really silly not to have them.


and let's talk tilt for a moment. I'm putting a winch on the trailer so getting the deck up is actually pretty simple (and can even be done without a winch). The trick is always the hold it in the air while you're loading then let it down once the load is on. That means the ram doesn't need to be powered. Truth is I doubt I'll power it because it's kind of needless complexity and weight

[SuperBuickGuy]

Material list:
7 - 20' x 4x2x1/4 channel ... info I have says 315 lbs per length.... they were heavy, that is true but I think I need to research this a bit more.
6 - 20' x 2x2x1/4 L 68 lbs per length
2 - 4x8 1/8" diamond plate steel 100 lbs per sheet

soon
4 - 2x8 decking
1 - 2x10 decking

axles, hitch, chain....

if you're calculating weight, there's about 10 feet of 4x2 U channel left and about 10 feet of angle

[silver_bullet]

and let's talk tilt for a moment. I'm putting a winch on the trailer so getting the deck up is actually pretty simple (and can even be done without a winch). The trick is always the hold it in the air while you're loading then let it down once the load is on. That means the ram doesn't need to be powered. Truth is I doubt I'll power it because it's kind of needless complexity and weight

I saw a trailer recently that used a pneumatic cylinder on the tilt with nothing more than a valve between the two ends of the cylinder to accomplish just that! Just get a small enough valve to be able to throttle the flow....

[SuperBuickGuy]

just about done
wiring

to get them to fit required a bit of grinding


and lights

and latches for the fenders

spaghetti covered in sealant

wiring terminus

brakes and I'm done

well, except wood but that's easy

[SuperBuickGuy]

now with lights and brakes


interesting - GM changed their plug wiring... which will probably mean I need to make an adapter for my Suburban.... red is now yellow, green is now brown, brown is now green... in case you're curious.... blue stays in the same spot as does white

[Russell]

Very nice! The fenders are removable? In your spair time a quick video of it tilting would be the icing on the cake!

[irsa76]

4 pin or 7 pin?
This is what our trailer wiring is, or should be unless the idiot who wired it did it wrong, which I've seen happen.

[SuperBuickGuy]

thats different, we don't have separate stop and turn signals.
this is GM's wiring



and just for posterity this is how a trailer wires