thats different, we don't have separate stop and turn signals.
this is GM's wiring
Mine's wired like this, too. I think that's pretty standard in today's world where the tow vehicle uses the same bulb for turn and stop. With separate bulbs, I dunno.
there was a question of how it works
pull the pins, widen the fenders
if you have a lifted 4x4 - you simply drive on
now here's the deal I'm not certain how I'm going to solve - be it ramps, ram, or simply put the hi-lift in place to hold it up.
once you drive past the center
it comes back down (remember I had 2 criteria, 4x4 AND tall enough? here's why)
noisy, but it works
most likely I'll put ramps and a ram (not hydraulic lift unless one falls in my lap for freebie pricing)
there we go
and yes, combined that's about 6800 lbs - well within the trailer and truck's capacity - let me say it again, having a jake brake on a little pickup is very cool
oh and a final note, those rails between the wood and the diamond plate are intentional. Ever try to load something with no wheels? those are tracks to aid loading such problem children....
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; August 30, 2018, 11:53 PM.
Here's how I did mine, two decades ago. In a pinch for time and with no good ideas, I just got started anyway but it's worked all this while.
In the pic, the front of the trailer is out at 8 o'clock. That's a little floor jack mounted onto the a-frame front which pivots similar to yours, inside a bolted-on frame that has a small hole in front for a screwdriver to turn the release. The end of the jack has a connecting link up to brackets you can barely see behind the front rail. Also hard to make out is a multi-position latch that pulls away against spring pressure to allow raising, which otherwise prevents the trailer from flipping up by itself and pulling air into the hydraulic jack.
You (I mean, "I") look like a dork when jacking the front up to tilt so you sorta be discrete about that, but it's easy and quick. Then when the car is loaded and everybody's watching, you either pull the latch forward or just let it click down against angled teeth and turn the release screw (the jacking lever has a screwdriver welded to the end so there's just the one tool which fits into a broom handle clip on the frame), and it all settles down level in a controlled manner with a soft hiss, to the note of the impressed onlookers. There are trailer-hitch pins on either side which secure everything in position after lowering.
Just kidding about caring what people think but you know how it is sometimes when you're loading trailers...
I'm sure it all added about 75 lbs. but as said it's worked well all this time and didn't cost much.
I was wondering how that was going to work with such a short tail section behind the axles.
See Bob, ^ THIS is why my tilt has such goofed up looking axle placement. On mine, you simply do not load any weight on the last 2'-3'. And it improves the loading angle immensely.
Aaron, will the Corvette be able to make the loading angle without hanging up the nose?
And thanks for the Stainless Baby Moons. I was quietly hoping for those. Perfect.
And one of the ram lock, just for reference Aaron. Let me know if you want any details or better pictures, be glad to get them for you. Its non-powered, and uses a simple cheap pair of cylinders looped together with a ball valve to lock it up, down, or in between. One cylinder acts as a reservoir, the other hooks to the frame and deck.
Note the ram extended on the horizontal cylinder in the next 2 pictures. That ram runs in and out, doing nothing, just absorbing the fluid from the cylinder that mounts to the deck and frame. Locking the ball valve mounted at the side of the deck (easy to reach) stops the flow, which stops the deck from moving.
I thought about powering this somehow.....but now that I have used it some, it is simply not necessary. I unlock the deck from the frame, stand on the end, and it goes down. Stand on the other end and it goes up, lock it, done.
Hardest part is deciding how to mount a winch on the deck - AND making it removable for security and weather reasons.
This is what I came up with for a self contained removable winch. Fasten aluminum receiver to deck (somehow - not done there yet) Slide winch into receiver, pin in, open ammo can and run power cables to front of tow vehicle and plug Anderson connector into underhood Anderson connector hooked to battery.
Remove and store indoors when not in use. If I used this on a daily basis I would set it up completely different. As it is this is perfect for me. The receiver being a permanent small lump on the trailer deck should not prove to be an issue.
Loren - the tab on the front of the trailer is to bolt a hi-lift jack and there's a nub on the top so the jack doesn't lose its grip when it goes up.... maybe that's why I painted the entire trailer red - so my neck just blends in with it?
Chris - haven't yet decided how I'm going to winch, I'm leaning towards a 120v winch then power it off an inverter because then I don't have to run large by huge wires to the back of my Suburban AND my Colorado. The Suburban already has an inverter for the battery-powered A/C. For the Colorado, being able to run a welder or grinder is important
I'm going to weld it on - wood gets replaced every 10 years so even if I bolted it on, I'd still have to cut it off.... so I'll make it easier on myself now too....
Sooo McSquatch.... you see now why I went to all the hassle of building it myself? truly was a valid question that hopefully has been answered
so here's pretty much the end
I'll have a receiver hitch and a winch on the hitch for pulling stuff up, I'll also put a ram on here eventually along with a set of ramps to make loading things like my Corvette easier....
but seriously, THE END
It's first task is scrapping the Denali, then haul the 50 Buick and 64 Buick to the State Patrol to get vin inspected.... and haul deck stuff, and on and on.... hopefully this was detailed enough so that anyone else can follow along. I'll see about posting the plans that I loosely followed in the build.
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