Milner351's 5 window

[milner351]

The old MT 29 15.5 15 sure looked mean, but they were old (2003 date codes) and didn't run down the road very smooth. These are nearly 5" narrower, but very close to the same height. I wish I could have found 275 70 15, but I could not. 275 60 15 are available, but those are quite a bit shorter. 295 50 15 are also available, but even shorter yet, and given the big fenders, I don't think shorter side walls would work.

It does ride better, still needs improvement, but this was a big step in the right direction.

[JOES66FURY]

Have the fenders been widened?

[milner351]

I have to believe the fenders and the running boards were highly modified when the car was built originally. The guy I bought it from didn't know much about it's origins, other than it came from down south, and the powertrain was all out of a 71 boss351. Thankfully - the metal work on the body is better than the wiring and suspension work... LOL

[Deaf Bob]

Have the fenders been widened?

Yes

[JOES66FURY]

It looks like it may have been built around the the "pro street" era...the rear end, the wider fenders to accommodate steamroller type tires the scallops....

With my indecisiveness and inability to focus on anything for more than 5 minutes.... I would have pulled the fenders off by now just to see what it would look like....

keep the progress pics coming!

[milner351]

Unfortunately, the entire front end is all one piece across the front, connecting the two fenders, the front fenders are one piece with the running boards, then the rear fenders are attached to the running boards.
SO
If I want to see what it looks like fender-less, it's paint job time, the entire front end sheet metal would have to be cut apart, thankfully I have a plasma cutter.

I got lucky and found a QA1 coil over kit in the garage sale section at Speedway, for now, I'll try the new coil overs in the existing location.... eventually, I'd like to lose the ladder bars and change the rear suspension design.

The front is a stock M2. I'd like to use the welder series drop cross member and 2" drop spindles which would enable me to keep nearly the same ride height, and lose the "bumps" in the fenders, that would allow me to separate the front sheet metal, and show the entire grille instead of hiding the bottom section of it under the sheet metal that's there now.

Since I have the fenders and they are in over all good shape, I'm leaning more toward keeping them, but I'd like to avoid repainting the entire car if possible, so, that's why I mentioned earlier painting the fenders and maybe some of the top of the car black... instead of hassling with trying to match the yellow.

[JOES66FURY]

Holy crap! someone did a lot of fab on that thing...from the pics it looked to be pretty good work.

[STINEY]

If it were mine, and I wanted/needed to take it apart.....I would tape up a pair of lines beneath each turnsignal. Then using a fine cutoff wheel separate the fenders from the front apron. Imagine a line from top to bottom, thus making a separate apron panel for the front. Cutting thru the tape should save the paint from chipping.

Paint the edge with some touch up paint, drill some holes, fab up a bolt on flange and cover it with some stainless boat rub rail or such.

Might be be easier said than done, but from the picture it certainly looks do-able from here. https://www.bangshift.com/forum/filedata/fetch?photoid=1212663

[milner351]

Stiney - that's a great idea - but keep in mind the plan is to get rid of the "bumps" that are there to cover up the upper control arms / coil spring perches of the Mustang 2 in it's current configuration. The Welder series dropped cross member along with 2" drop spindles (scored on speedway garage sale special) will make the bumps no longer necessary, and should allow for some improved geometry all the way around - and no longer need the bump steer kit with any luck - not to mention steering shaft geometry.... that's a mess currently, but it works, for now.

[STINEY]

I’m with you on the bumps.....can we toss that apron at the same time? It’s angular lines kinda clash, lol.

Is the full grill shell behind there? It’s not cut down to work with that apron is it?

[Deaf Bob]

Starting to see what you are whining about visually....
The boxes and apron do kinda clash. Not "sexy"
I feel these cars need a straight axle.. Visual one!
I suppose the newer style you want to use will be ok..
I seriously doubt a Crown Vic aluminum cradle will be purty under there..
Looks like the bolt together parts are welded?

[JOES66FURY]

Man, that view really shows the era it was built in. I dig it but I fully get why you'd want to remove the bumps. also, why anyone would want to hide that beautiful grill shell is beyond me. I am really looking forward to this cars progression.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I seriously doubt a Crown Vic aluminum cradle will be purty under there..

that would be about 5 miles too wide.... not just that but the rear, lower arms rely on bump-outs that don't exist on a Model A.

as for the bumps, painting them yellow draws attention to them, if you run it without the side panels, you could paint them black and they'd disappear.

[Deaf Bob]

that would be about 5 miles too wide.... not just that but the rear, lower arms rely on bump-outs that don't exist on a Model A.

as for the bumps, painting them yellow draws attention to them, if you run it without the side panels, you could paint them black and they'd disappear.

But.. All that aluminum polished!
Yes, too wide..

[milner351]

Thankfully - the full grille shell is there.
You guys are talking me into cutting the fenders and running boards apart.
Since welder series already has a cross member to make it work without "bumps" I see no reason to keep them.
Is it sinful to paint a car primer that's already painted?
Ugh. I knew I should never have bought a shiny car. I have a hard time keeping them shiny!