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'78 Buick Regal Sport Coupe

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  • I have an address for that fender. Anytime. (Nice pun Dan)

    Aaron, please accept my order for two of them. Need a deposit? Make that three, I’ll drop Tardis’ off at his place.
    Last edited by STINEY; August 19, 2019, 06:41 PM.
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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    • Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
      Not sure, but, 2wd S10 V8 swap headers may fit....
      Hmmm. Jegs has an application for the ‘78 - $150 for the pair. Was hoping to keep the factory stainless manifolds... They look like they would flow well and hey, stainless.

      Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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      • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
        I have an address for that fender. Anytime. (Nice pun Dan)

        Aaron, please accept my order for two of them. Need a deposit? Make that three, I’ll drop Tardis’ off at his place.
        I can almost hear the drunk logic that went into the design.... but utter brilliance IMO... that said, it would be a 50 Buick fender if I were building it.
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • There are definitely two different "height" of block brackets. Visual proof in this link. https://gbodyforum.com/threads/motor...roblems.38429/

          My suspicion is that 3/4 and 1 ton trucks used these mounts, as some guys swear they used truck mounts that dropped right in. I am theorizing they used 1/2 ton brackets.

          So not only did I use a 1-ton donor, but I have another drivetrain I pulled from Grandpa's 3/4 ton '78 2wd. Same tall truck brackets. And a mystery junkyard engine - same brackets.

          Rats. Going to prowl through my buddys parts stash, but I am not feeling lucky today.

          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
            There are definitely two different "height" of block brackets. Visual proof in this link. https://gbodyforum.com/threads/motor...roblems.38429/

            My suspicion is that 3/4 and 1 ton trucks used these mounts, as some guys swear they used truck mounts that dropped right in. I am theorizing they used 1/2 ton brackets.
            I've used "truck" brackets on a variety of cars... I swore I wouldn't swear anymore dammit so I would effing swear about it.... no promises, though, about swearing at it. That said, I'm pretty certain that they are all the same.... GM only changes things that don't work or are obsolete... if one, right bracket works on everything, then on everything it will go.... as I said before, it tends to be the left (driver's side) that gets the changes....


            and to point out what is obvious.... the motor mounts can be swapped side to side - thus raising or lowering the motor... why I say that, the taller bracket would be a left side....
            Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; August 20, 2019, 10:59 AM.
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • Normally I agree whole heartedly on GM and their habits. But then I saw this. And the "shorter" bracket would certainly solve our issue on the Regal.

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              There are subtle differences in the shape around the long bolt hole. I definitely have the taller one, its 3" from the block mounting surface to the long bolt hole.

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              Last edited by STINEY; August 20, 2019, 01:50 PM.
              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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              • you know - the G-body clamshell has a captive bolt on the passenger side - otherwise you'll never get a wrench in there with the fuel pump in place.... just remembered that.... point is you may need a specific one.... or just drill a couple new holes in the cross member
                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                • Click image for larger version

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                  Finally found the correct mounts in amongst my spare parts repository. Blasted, painted, installed - and the motor slipped into place and slipped the long mount bolts in.

                  If you look close the part numbers are visible.

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                  Note how the “V” part of the stamping is concave on one and convex on the other. Interesting identifying feature.

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                  Last edited by STINEY; September 2, 2019, 05:03 AM.
                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                  • Really wanted to run the stock ‘86 truck stainless exhaust manifolds but the passenger side just would not clear the lower control arm mount.

                    So decided to try Jegs brand headers. Rumor has it that they are built by Flowtech and are fairly substantial. I can vouch for the substantial part - they have nice thick tubes with no “tinny” feel to them. And the flanges are beefy thick. Come with all hardware and adapters.

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                    The passenger side required the starter to be removed for install. I knocked the carbon/rust ridge off the exhaust ports on the engine with a grinder to help ensure a good seal and test fit the passenger side. Only two problem areas...the outer edge of the transmission ear (not the whole dust cover mounting bolt area, just the edge past the bolt) needs to be trimmed off. I used a sawzall.

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                    And the vacuum modulator nipple crashes directly into the collector. Going to try a replacement adjustable one from Napa which is shorter and has a 90* rubber hose. This truck used a rather large modulator for some reason.

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                    Those are the only points of contact. The upper control arm is close, but this ain’t horseshoes.

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                    Last edited by STINEY; September 2, 2019, 05:15 AM.
                    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                    • they certainly fit like flowtechs....
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • Drivers side only needed a notch grindered into it where the the temperature sender goes in the head.

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                        And need to find a cure for the power steering mount brace. The one that picks up from the front exhaust manifold bolt. Might just make a spacer and reuse the original bolt in the front hole (which was unused originally) and drill a new hole in the bracket.

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                        Otherwise the fit is good. Of course there is no steering shaft to interfere yet. For that matter, header install is MUCH easier with that pesky body out of the way.

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                        Last edited by STINEY; September 3, 2019, 09:33 AM.
                        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                        • Start on exhaust.

                          Yep, putting cats on it. Cannot stomach the stench some engines put off without them.

                          These are sold as stainless universal, but the part number referenced an OEM fitment for a 3.0L engine. That and the 2.5" inlet and outlet with factory heat shield sold them for me. I am sure they aren't going to work as perfectly as they should, but I tried.

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                          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                          • you need to cut down on that Chevy stench somehow
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Indeed.
                              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                              • I have the header mount for my alternator.. I believe Speedway motors is where it came from.
                                2 pieces of plate, saddles the tube with slots on the upper part.
                                Then the other plate is formed to fit the alt base and slides in the slots for alignment

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