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Originally posted by oletrux4evr View PostBlue tip wrench.........love it. Like calling a crescent wrench a Mexican socket set.There's always something new to learn.
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Originally posted by milner351 View Post
Maybe we can work out a trade for her 40? LOL
Working on stuff that hasn't been apart for decades is always exciting! It's great when you have several options for removing stubborn parts...but the old fire wrench is the most fun! LOL
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The left is the old single pot master cylinder that bolts to the frame bracket under the driver floor with three bolts.
The new dual master set up for dis/drum has the two bolt mount.
A bit of cutting with the sawzall and some grinding and die grinding, and I made an adapter to fit the new master where the old one used to go, should line up properly for the push-rod from the pedal.
Still waiting for the king pin kit and the front disc kit. I did get the 225/75-16 tires mounted and balanced and put the rears on just to see, they are a bit shorter than the old white walls, but look the part of a "work truck" just fine, and are radials, and only a couple years old, so, we're good once I get it road worthy.
Another battle..... someone in the past not only broke off a valve cover bolt, but also broke off whatever hardened device he was trying to use to remove said bolt.... below the gasket rail.
Out comes the fire wrench again, this time, no bueno, whatever unobtanium hardened steel was used in that "ez-out" what having no part of melting, at least no before the cast iron of the cylinder head started to melt around it..... so - I put the flame out, and decided it was time to drop back and punt.
I moved over a bit from the factory bolt location, drilled and tapped a new 1/4-20 hole, which of course hit a coolant passage, so, I'll put thread sealer on a stud, tighten it into place with nothing in the cooling system, then add coolant the next day. I'll have to drill and "clearance" the valve cover to make the new fastener work, but - the valve cover should no longer leak in that corner, and thankfully the battery and battery tray make that a hard area to see when fully assembled, so the "creative repair" will be concealed.
I took the opportunity of the coolant system being drained to swap the OEM style two out let two inlet flat head radiator for a new champion aluminum radiator with proper inlet / outlet for a small block ford. For now I'll re-use the flex hoses, they are wonky but work, so I'll leave them for now.
When the brake kit arrives I'll get that assembled and hope that those calipers clear the steel wheels that came on the truck..... I may have to do a bit of massaging there too.
Then run new brake lines off the dual reservoir disc/drum granada master cyliner, and we should be just about ready to get this beast rolling under it's own power.Last edited by milner351; October 22, 2018, 09:26 AM.There's always something new to learn.
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I like this truck!
I did a similar bolt relocation on the GT40 head in my Ranger, for the same reason. Feels dirty, but it works!1997 Ranger 5.0L HO, GT40 heads/tubular intake, 65mm TB, 1.7rr, B303, Tri-Y headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster mufflers, T5 trans, Tri-Ax shifter, CenterForce Dual Friction clutch, 8.8 Traction Lok 3.55 gears, Cobra 13" front brakes, Cobra 11.65" rear discs.
1997 Mustang GT
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Didn't have much time to work in the shop last night, but I did get the pontoon put away for the season, a bit depressing, but one more thing off the ever mounting to-do list this fall.
I got a couple 1/4-20 studs at lunch yesterday, only ones I could find were 1/4-28 on one side, so I got the hex nuts to match that fine thread pitch.
I put sealer on the threads, and installed one into the new bolt hole that runs into the coolant passage, I'll wait to add coolant into the system until that sealer has plenty of time to dry. I put the other stud into the bolt hole next to it in the head on the lower rail. Then I set the valve cover on top, and tapped the area above the new stud location with a hammer to make a witness mark, center punched, and drilled a 5/16" hole which gave me enough margin for error that the valve cover did slide into place over the new stud.
I'm debating if I should weld the hole shut in the valve cover over the hole in the head with the busted off easy out, or, if some extra gasket sealer in that area would prevent a leak, or using those load spreading bar thingies.... regardless I'll use a rubber gasket, punch a new hole in it, and hope for the best, 1 - no oil leak, 2 - no coolant leak either into or out of the crank case. I'll have to remember to check the oil often to make sure there's no sign of coolant mixing in.
Sorry - no pictures of the modified old chrome valve cover, between my new phone and my old brain - I haven't gotten that sorted out yet.
There's always something new to learn.
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I'm trying to celebrate each small victory, and work on things a little at a time, since that's the only time I have.
Valve cover is bolted in place with the re-located threaded hole in the head and stud with sealer as it's threaded into a coolant passage.
New radiator and shroud is in (finally bought a "nut-sert" kit that will help get the OEM fan shroud mounted properly to the new champion aluminum radiator)
Coolant system is re-filled - at least at ambient pressure and temperature, no leaks...
The calipers pads and hoses showed up from TSM, brackets, rotors and the rest of the kit should arrive today.1 PhotoThere's always something new to learn.
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Front 8 lug disc brake conversion kit is half installed, got the driver side put together last night, at first glance it doesn't appear that the rotor is hub or lug centric, need to figure that out.
Need to confirm the steel wheels will clear the calipers as well, and crimp the outboard pad backing plate "ears" to grip the caliper housing tightly - right now the bottom edge of the pad drags on the rotor.
The King pin kit is coming from Summit - but not the Ohio warehouse, directly from the supplier in California, so it won't make it for this weekends push to get it roadworthy.
My old cell phone died during attempted battery replacement, I'm struggling to get my new phone to upload photos automatically so I can share them here, first world problems.There's always something new to learn.
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Originally posted by milner351 View PostDidn't have much time to work in the shop last night, but I did get the pontoon put away for the season, a bit depressing, but one more thing off the ever mounting to-do list this fall.
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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SBG - I agree - there's something cyclically pleasing about the variety of temperature conditions that's refreshing.
I could NOT live in a desert or jungle locale, although part of me would love to live in a place where it's always between say 40 and 90 F.
Home is home, after moving to our current place in March of 2013, I told my lovely wife that they'll likely drag my dead body off that piece of land.
I'll have too much time money and effort getting it the way we want it to ever want to leave.
There's always vacation breaks to get out of the cold that make the winter easier to get through, well, that and a heated workshop.
There's always something new to learn.
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