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1939 Chevy coupe

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  • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe


    Though I don't know. Been retired for 15 years +/- and haven't been bored yet though I was getting that way as I recovered from this latest operation. Glad to be back to doing projects.

    Dan
    I'm going on 10 years and not much boring is slow here either!

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    • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

      I got the rear shock mounts done today. I had this pair of shocks already and they were for a 2nd Gen Camaro. So figured since I needed to build mounts I'd modify the Ford spring plate to accept the bayonet lower mount and twin bolt upper. I plated the bottom of the floor to sandwich 10 ga. metal on it and then holesawed a center hole, and a pair of mounting holes. I put a bolt and nut through the floor to contain the plate, and make a pair of studs to mount and not need two people every time the shocks are worked on.



      After that I vacuumed the floor and put the painted trans panels back in. Then got out my Frost King insulation and put down the insulation on the firewall and front floors. Need to remove the seats to do any of the rest.




      And this is the painted dash I did the other day. Waiting for the burl wood to be able to finish the center area in burl.

      Last edited by 1946Austin; November 10th, 2019, 04:12 PM.
      DanStokes likes this.

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      • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

        Starting to really look good!
        1946Austin likes this.
        Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
        HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


        Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

        The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

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        • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

          Starting to really look good!
          I love this point when things go together for the last time! And the inexpensive Frost King floor insulation is fun to put down and a big money saver over products like Dynamat. I got 4 12"x 15' rolls for $73 shipped. Enough to do all the floors, inside the doors, and either my trunk or roof. Probably do the roof since the trunk get's a through the floor fuel cell, and a hinged wood floor over the fuel cell.
          SuperBuickGuy, DanStokes and Deaf Bob like this.

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          • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

            Not much paint got spread under the car today. Just enough to cover places I might not be able to get to after the fuel cell was installed! I planned to cut the floor and drop the fuel cell through it until it was maybe 2" through the floor. But after some measuring I realized the cell could go under the floor! So I opened up a square hole for the filler access, and a couple more for the vent, a plugged outlet, and the sending unit. Then bent up my brackets and lined them with dense 1/2" thick foam rubber. Put foam rubber on top where the cell goes against the floor braces, and drilled holes to bolt it all in place. I cut the 4 tabs off the bottom of the cell since they were made to bolt it down to the floor, and not needed.



            After that it was too late to start the underside painting, so I vacuumed out the trunk and painted it instead.



            I'll line the edges of the opening with 3/8 hose to protect them, and also seal the opening with more foam rubber to keep the exhaust from coming in. Maybe some more painting tomorrow?
            Deaf Bob, oletrux4evr and DanStokes like this.

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            • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

              If memory serves me right, you are working in a tarpy lean to?

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              • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                If memory serves me right, you are working in a tarpy lean to?
                No Bob, the tarp canopy is gone. But my footprint isn't any larger. I have a 10'x20' metal building now in the same place the canopy was. Actually deluxe compared to the canopy that occasionally dripped when raining, and let the wind blow through. Plus I put down the garage flooring system so it's nice laying on that when I need to be under the car. The metal building has more ambient light with windows on 3 sides too. And I installed 5 two lamp 4' LED fixtures that blast light everywhere!
                It's not the big shop I wanted, but the city gave me so much grief over the 30'x30' shop that I gave up.

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                • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                  Before pulling the tires off for paint today, I figured I better do some measuring and make the final cuts for the radius. I bent up two pieces of 1/4" round stock and then clamped it to the fenders as a pattern. I penciled along the inside edge of both fenders and then with my small parting disc I carefully made the cut. It came out great and wont need much final grinding until after I weld the 1/4" on the inside edge of the cut.



                  And I cut the front drop off the fender also. Even with the body and no corner rounded for now. I'll carefully round the corner with a flapper disc so I can look at it as I go. I cut the original radius closer than I thought! Wasn't much removed on the final cut! Just these two slivers!



                  Then under the car to begin the horrible task of painting. I started with a 3" roller and then used paint brush to get some tough spots. Ran out of steam after about 5 hours, so need to come back tomorrow and get the rest of the tight spots with a brush and rattle cans. Also need to clean the rear axle and I'll rattle can the whole thing black. Not sure if I'll use the stock differential cover, or not yet? But I wont paint it for now.







                  My trunk was still tacky inside today. The cooler temperatures make for very slow drying times! I ran the small portable heater while I worked today until I couldn't stand the warm air. Had it set for 70 degrees, but when I'm working it's just too much. So I'll just let it take a few days to dry if that's what it needs.
                  I did a punch list last night, just for fun. The more I wrote, the more I realized how much is still ahead of me! I quit at around 40 items, and I know there's much more!

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                  • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                    I bought a $900 3 side leanto building. County fpgave me so much crap, to meet "code" the tin too thin, posts too far apart, not enough side boards. Ended up almost $1900 for a tiny crappy shed parts. Then permits and installing. Went without.
                    1946Austin likes this.

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                    • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                      I bought a $900 3 side leanto building. County fpgave me so much crap, to meet "code" the tin too thin, posts too far apart, not enough side boards. Ended up almost $1900 for a tiny crappy shed parts. Then permits and installing. Went without.
                      Sending a message.

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                      • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                        Smart. A Smoky Yunick move!
                        1946Austin likes this.

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                        • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                          Got so caught up in working on the '39 today that I lost track of time. Missed our car club Tuesday night get together at the local pizza parlor. But it was worth it as the day was pretty productive.
                          I got out the paint again and finished up painting the undercarriage, including the rearend. Then made up the mounts for my rear axle snubbers and got those mounted to the frame rails. Happened to be a 3/8" body bolt right where it needed to go, so used that as an easy mounting bolt for one hole.
                          After that I removed the drag link and tierod and hung both up to shoot paint on them too. Then I cut the 1/4" rods I bent for the rear fender radius, and fit them to the openings. A few hundred tiny little tacks later they were on and I ground the welds all smooth.
                          I got to looking at the inside of the fender where the rod sits against the fender, and figured the round rod left a perfect place for crud to sit and maybe rust. So mixed up a little Duraglass and ran a bead all along the rod inside to make sure anything will run off and not sit in there.
                          Never got to fabbing the front shock mounts, but ordered a pair of shocks for a late 50's Chevy 1/2 ton.
                          DanStokes and oletrux4evr like this.

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                          • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                            My faux burl wood came in today, so decided to see how it would look on the dash. After applying the burl wood vinyl to one end of the dash it became pretty apparent that it was going to be a bit too much. Plus it looked like it might need a chrome trim strip to edge it and look finished. So I scaled down and just put the gauge panel and clock blank off plate in burl wood. Just enough to offset the ivory and give some contrast.







                            The old radio doesn't work, but I kinda like the look of it, so I'll keep it in the dash and hide another CD player under the seat.
                            trukluvr, silver_bullet and 2 others like this.

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                            • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                              Got all my brake lines bent up, double flared and terminated. Only forgot one fitting while flaring ends, and it was long enough to trim the flare off and slip a new fitting on before flaring again. I'll have to start at the master cylinder and tighten all the fittings later, but didn't want to do it today.



                              And a picture of the front suspension and those painted tierod and drag link.

                              hauen, SuperBuickGuy and 4 others like this.

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                              • Re: 1939 Chevy coupe

                                Running around today, so not much got done on the '39. But I did pull the gauge panel out and pre wire it all so it will only take a few wires hooked up to complete it later. I like to run a ground wire to each gauge and not depend on the panel to ground all the gauges.

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