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1939 Chevy coupe

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    We had a place here in town called Fabric Depot that I bought materials from for decades. But about a year ago they closed their doors. I went out for their closing business sale, but it was taking 2-3 hrs. to get through the checkout lines, so I gave up and left.
    At their usual great prices I could get naugahyde in 54" widths for around $8 a yd., and occasionally on sales for around $5 a yd. At the sale it was down to around $3 a yd. and I was going to buy what was left on a roll. Likely around 8-9 yds. left, so not much money. But I despise lines, and crowds, so had to give up.
    I gave $17 a yd. for the diamond pattern, and got enough to cover everything. Still a cheap way to do the interior. My seats are in great shape, but wont match the side panels. Have a local upholstery shop just 8 blocks away, and they do good work reasonably. So later I may have them recover the seats to match the rest if I decide to match it up. They charged me $370 to recover two buckets for my Falcon.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    John - you do know about Michigan Textiles (I think I have that name right) on Michigan Ave in Ypsi, no? Great resource. I'm assuming they're still there - as recently as 5 years ago ME and I stopped in and bought some stuff when we were in town. They get leftover fabric and foam from the car factories, Lazy Boy, etc.

    Dan

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  • milner351
    replied
    the price of upholstery has gotten insane! Just the price of good foam is painful. One of the Model A guys had a cool idea - he had a "pleather" couch he was going to replace, so he took as much material off it as he could - and ended up with enough of that - and enough foam - to make his door panels, side panels, and some other flat panels for the rear of the car. He then used the same material to make "seat covers" for the junkyard seat he'd found for the front - so the whole thing matched. Turned out really good for not much money at all.
    This car is really coming together, Looks great!

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
    i had a 53 international R-100 years back, i made
    door panels out of clear 1/8 thick polycarbonate-
    taped off flames on backside, sprayed with clear
    then threw orange glitter all over flames while clear
    was wet, then quickly pulled tape and sprayed entire
    rear of panel gloss black covering flames and all.

    when i turned em over they were spectacular, and
    since they were on the back the paint couldn't get
    scratched. man, i wish i had pics.....
    Saving money, and having something you did yourself, and looks good too is a big win!

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Originally posted by Teddyzee View Post
    Wow, that was inspiring once again. You have me thinking about making my own door panels now.
    Making door panels is a big savings, and a huge savings if you also cover them yourself. I did my entire interior door panels for my Austin for under $50 including the black naugahyde. I spent more on the diamond pattern black vinyl for the '39, but will still be around $125 for these panels.
    I've got to get my headliner ordered and installed before I get the last of the glass in, and the side panels in. I'll be under $500 total when my interior is done, including junkyard buckets I pulled for $30.

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  • fatguyzinc
    replied
    i had a 53 international R-100 years back, i made
    door panels out of clear 1/8 thick polycarbonate-
    taped off flames on backside, sprayed with clear
    then threw orange glitter all over flames while clear
    was wet, then quickly pulled tape and sprayed entire
    rear of panel gloss black covering flames and all.

    when i turned em over they were spectacular, and
    since they were on the back the paint couldnt get
    scratched. man, i wish i had pics.....

    Leave a comment:


  • Teddyzee
    replied
    Wow, that was inspiring once again. You have me thinking about making my own door panels now.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Yeah, I knew you were Dan. Made use of it again today to cut holes in my trunk divider panel for a pair of speakers. Years ago my daughter wanted some new fangled MP3 player, stereo system, and she gave me the one in her car after they put the whiz bang one in.
    It's a nice JVC radio and CD player, which is all I really want. So I cut out the dash insert to accept the new stereo, and mounted it in. I bought a pair of 5" speakers way back then also, as I planned to put it all in my Falcon. But the Falcon was so loud I figured I'd never hear it, so it all got set aside then. So it will go into this project and be all I need for the car.
    I need to figure out how my materials measure up for the black carpet and diamond black vinyl, so I know if the trunk divider gets black carpet on it, or the diamond pattern vinyl. I think I've got enough vinyl, but hard to say for sure until I lay it out. Sometimes trying to get things aligned ends up using more material than I thought.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post

    Jigsaw is the easiest tool for cutting this panel board. I could cut the door pieces with a skilsaw with no issue. It's the kick panels and 1/4 panels that have all the weird shapes that a jigsaw makes quick work of.
    I was just teasing you. The jig saw is, for sure, the right tool.

    Dan

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Jigsaw!! Man, you're fussy - or maybe the chainsaw is in the shop?

    Dan
    Jigsaw is the easiest tool for cutting this panel board. I could cut the door pieces with a skilsaw with no issue. It's the kick panels and 1/4 panels that have all the weird shapes that a jigsaw makes quick work of.
    Last edited by 1946Austin; May 19, 2020, 06:56 AM.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Jigsaw!! Man, you're fussy - or maybe the chainsaw is in the shop?

    Dan

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Something must have relaxed with our state rules as no line outside Home Depot today when I got there. Walked right in and bought two sheets of panel board to make my interior panels out of.
    I made paper patterns for the doors, 1/4 panels, and kick panels, and traced them on the panel board. Then cut them out with a jigsaw and drilled holes for door cranks.
    Pretty quick job, and no fitment issues. I'll eventually cover them in the diamond pattern once I get the carpets in. I need to make some sort of a filler panel before I do carpet to fill in two small drops between front seats and rear floor panel. It will cover this area where the floor drops down on both sides of the driveling tunnel:



    Just about 18"-20" long each, and maybe 5"-6" wide. But if I fill it the carpet will be much easier to install. So need to decide what to use, and how to install it. Doesn't need a lot of strength as nobody will be standing on it. Maybe just a piece of sheet metal all the way across, and attached to the wood covered platform, and the floor?

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    I'd guess that moisture in a compressor tank has something to do with how moist the air is it's drawing in? And of course how hot the air gets during run times. I'd guess if it starts off cold and runs a lot all day it could create more moisture, but just guessing.
    My big machine shop customers all had a lot of moisture issues in their tanks, but also in their lines too! They had all sorts of big air dryers, and filters at the compressors, but because of the hundreds of feet of lines with high and low changes, they'd still get moisture out at their equipment. Every drop of any length had a blow down valve at the low point, and I saw machinists open them often if they were going to be doing something with air and wanted it to be drier.
    Their automatic air driers and automatic blowdowns were all near the compressor, and didn't seem to do much with all the line length after them.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post


    Dan - is it possible to have too dry of a tank? puddled water draws moisture out of cool air, or does the hot air from the compressor keep the vapor in the charge air?
    I've never heard of that being an issue and from my one semester of Auto Body it was never mentioned - though I don't think the instructor was top-notch. My problem has always been keeping the air clean and dry but maybe you can go too far on the "dry".

    Dan

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
    Sorry, I didn't see a question, thus I didn't answer. I don't have a Harbor Freight compressor, and paid good money for an IR just to get something I hoped would last a long time. I don't have an air dryer, but I do have a moisture separator, and an inline filter at the gun. I don't run the filter for most off my air uses since it's not an issue for other things, but the separator is always there.
    I usually blow down my tank from the drain valve before using it also, but I never get any moisture out of it for whatever reason?
    I'll take this down to metal, and redo it, and see what happens with the next coat of primer.
    it's the weirdest thing, I'm sure there's some physics explanation for why you don't get moisture every time - but I've had the same issue. I can go months without water or oil coming out, and then my dryer turns red (moisture) and the 2 separators both have moisture in them... I put a IR 3 stage pump on my tank - love that it's able to stay ahead of my air tools, but there is still a drop of oil and water occasionally that comes out of the tank.

    Dan - is it possible to have too dry of a tank? puddled water draws moisture out of cool air, or does the hot air from the compressor keep the vapor in the charge air?

    Leave a comment:

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