quick-n-dirty photochop, moved front of rear fender up...
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1939 Chevy coupe
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my boy did this in like 3 minutes, even
tho i watched him i still dont understand how
he did it, he moved the front clip up, put the
rear tire on the front (he said proportionately
it looked better) and took the rim/tire off the ground
and moved it into the rear fender, then re-radiused
the well. he was bummed he couldnt 'tilt'' the front clip
to align the bodyline straight.
i guess hes right, i AM getting old as im
easily confused by electronic devices.....
Last edited by fatguyzinc; October 21, 2019, 12:34 PM.
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Car might be on hold for awhile. My daily driver, a '69 Suburban bit the dust yesterday! Engine took a major dump, and when I tried to remove the heads today they're stuck like they were welded on the block! Even a 3' prybar wont get them loose, and all my weight on it did nothing. Tried gently tapping up on the head while prying, and still stuck.
So looks like I need to find a good 350 SBC to replace the boat anchor in the truck. Don't like being without my Suburban very long!
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Originally posted by STINEY View PostRats! Wish you were closer, I would have dropped one off just to keep the Coupe on the front burner.
I got lucky today!!! I made my little chisel with a very sharp tapered point, and tapped it in on one corner just barely, and then pried with my 3' prybar and the passenger head popped loose. Did the same with the driver's side but it needed more wedging to finally break loose also! So both heads are off and at the machine shop.
The head gaskets weren't leaking, as I figured, but they actually tore in half when I did get them loose. Took forever to clean the block surface, and the machine shop will surface the heads so I wont have those to do. I checked all the combustion chambers and valves for leaks by pouring brake cleaner into each chamber. No leakage, so valve surfaces are good and no cracks. But three exhaust seats looked pretty bad as the valves sat deeper into the seats. So I told the machine shop to put in all new hardened valve seats and guides. He'll save as many valves as possible, and replace any that need to be. He told me it will run around $300, unless it needs all new valves, which will up it to around $375. I gave him the OK to replace them all if more are bad than good. He'll rush them through and get them back in a couple days.
Spent another 4 hours cleaning the block, intake, valve covers, etc. to get ready for reassembly. The engine looks really good with no ridge on the cylinders, and not much built up on the pistons. I cleaned the tops a little and vacuumed out everything to get the debris from cleanup.
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Originally posted by 1946Austin View PostCar might be on hold for awhile. My daily driver, a '69 Suburban bit the dust yesterday! Engine took a major dump, and when I tried to remove the heads today they're stuck like they were welded on the block! Even a 3' prybar wont get them loose, and all my weight on it did nothing. Tried gently tapping up on the head while prying, and still stuck.
So looks like I need to find a good 350 SBC to replace the boat anchor in the truck. Don't like being without my Suburban very long!
about the heads - I'm surprised you don't use the guy over in Milwaukie... I honestly don't know how many heads he's done for me, he does great work for a very reasonable costLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; October 22, 2019, 04:50 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
give my dad a call, IIRC, he has one without a home...
about the heads - I'm surprised you don't use the guy over in Milwaukie... I honestly don't know how many heads he's done for me, he does great work for a very reasonable cost
But what engine does your dad have laying around? Is it a runner, or would it need a rebuild?
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Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
What guy in Milwaukie? I used to use Larsen & King and Ted was great to work with. But he closed the shop on 10th and Hawthorne and moved everything to his house out near Charbonneau. Too far to mess with, so I went back to D&D Machine. I used D&D when I lived in Pleasant Vally, and Sr. always did great work. Jr. is doing the work now and he's just as good, and maybe even better. He did the heads on my '39 and I know he'll do a good job on this set.
But what engine does your dad have laying around? Is it a runner, or would it need a rebuild?
what engine? I'm pretty sure he has something for every price point and completenessLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; October 23, 2019, 11:15 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
Rick's Cylinder Head Service.
what engine? I'm pretty sure he has something for every price point and completeness
Hey Aaron I lost your dad's phone number in my last cell phone meltdown. Could you PM his number to me again?
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Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
I Googled Rick's just to see where it was and got a Google street view. Had to chuckle when I saw a vehicle leaving with "Don's Machine Shop" on the side! Don's has a horrible reputation for engine work, so it looks like maybe they're having their heads done by Rick since they can't seem to do them right themselves!
Hey Aaron I lost your dad's phone number in my last cell phone meltdown. Could you PM his number to me again?Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I don't often find a product I haven't tried before, but I did today! I went over to the Walmart and looked at degreasers to both clean up the engine bay on my Suburban, but also clean up the concrete under it where it puked it's guts out.
I found a product called Purple Power degreaser that's water soluble concentrate. I hoped it wasn't going to be a waste of money, but at $23 for a 5 gal. tub of it, I figured I couldn't go too wrong. I poured some into an old spray bottle I had and squirted it everywhere I wanted grease removed. I began scrubbing with a bristle brush and it really took the gunk and grime off! When I was done I simply rinsed it clean and it was squeaky clean.
It worked so well I figured I'd soak parts like the pushrods, bolts, and small parts in it too. They were clean in minutes! The toughest baked on gunk I wiped with a wet cloth dipped in the stuff, and it came off great too. And my hands looked like I'd never been near a greasy engine when I was done!
Not sure I'll ever use 5 gal. of it, and probably should have gotten the 1 gal. or maybe the 2.5 gal., but man does this stuff ever work great!
I pulled the harmonic balancer today and replaced the timing cover seal. Pulled the radiator and pulleys and cleaned up those also, along with the water pump. Got it all back together, so just waiting for the heads to reassemble it all.
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Well the money pit got deeper today! The machine shop called and said my heads were cracked, and that whoever rebuilt them in the past had put oversized valve stems in some places to avoid putting in new guides. He also said whoever rebuilt the heads hadn't put new hardened seats in and when they recut the seats they got through into soft iron and that's what caused the heads to crack. So now I have to buy a pair of good cores from the shop, and have the same work done as before. Adding a couple hundred more dollars to the head work.
Was going to have him hold off, but I figured if I bought a pair of used heads and they turned out to not be good, I'd be out even more. So I cut my losses and told him to go ahead with known cores that he guarantees are good.
He also said that a couple rockers looked bad on the pushrod end, and to check my pushrods. But I looked at all of them and they look like brand new. So maybe one went bad sometime in the past and they got replaced, but didn't replace the rockers.
He's staying late tonight and will have the heads ready tomorrow.
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