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1939 Chevy coupe

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  • Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
    Running around today, so not much got done on the '39. But I did pull the gauge panel out and pre wire it all so it will only take a few wires hooked up to complete it later. I like to run a ground wire to each gauge and not depend on the panel to ground all the gauges.
    Just a thought - When I wired Mutt I used trailer connectors on the instrument panel wiring to simplify removal if needed. I've thanked the knucklehead who came up with that several times. I used a 4 pin but wish I'd used a 7 pin - a couple of wires have cheesey quick connects as I added gages but it's still a lot easier. I have a gage to add and may change to a 7 pin when I do that.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanStokes; November 15, 2019, 08:24 PM.

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    • Military Bayonet connectors... Name your poison... Learned about these on a helo carrier in the avionics shop where I spent my off duty time!

      Patrick & Tammy
      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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      • Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
        Military Bayonet connectors... Name your poison... Learned about these on a helo carrier in the avionics shop where I spent my off duty time!

        https://www.google.com/search?q=mil-...hrome&ie=UTF-8
        I've looked at using those, but I'm so ADD that there is no chance I could make them work. I need wires with colors and linear connections...
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • Us old aviation mechs call those cannon plugs.
          Last edited by oletrux4evr; November 16, 2019, 12:08 PM.
          Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
          HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


          Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

          The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

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          • So do us old vehicle emissions techs. We used them but they are a PITA to work with (at least for me).

            Dan

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            • Us old electricians, (and the electrical distributors too) also refer to them as Cannon plugs, and I wouldn't use one if my life depended on it! They are a huge PITA to install, requiring each terminal to be soldered in the back of both halves of the plug.
              A Trailer plug is good, but not enough wires for my gauge panel. I need 12v. pos. and 12v. neg. then the lighting ckt. and the two wires for the fuel gauge. I can tap the 12v.pos. and neg for the volt meter to get those piggybacked. But I'm already over the 4 wires.
              I usually just mount a 6-8 ckt. screw terminal strip and land the wiring on both sides of that. Then if I need to pull the gauge panel I can remove the wiring at the terminal strip and take it out.
              There are also a number of universal electrical connectors that come male and female and are dirt cheap that I might consider since they unplug quickly. Ebay has inexpensive kits of them that can be used as multiples also, so any number of ckts. can be added with extra connectors, and simply color code or number the groups.

              Last edited by 1946Austin; November 16, 2019, 01:51 PM.

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              • Maybe I've been lucky, and I probably should knock on wood, but my instrument panels have held up magnificently over the years. Auto Meter makes good stuff, and good wiring keeps it humming right along. Hope yours does the same.
                Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
                HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


                Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

                The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

                Comment


                • Originally posted by oletrux4evr View Post
                  Maybe I've been lucky, and I probably should knock on wood, but my instrument panels have held up magnificently over the years. Auto Meter makes good stuff, and good wiring keeps it humming right along. Hope yours does the same.
                  I haven't had any issues with instruments either. But I have had to pull gauge panels to get to other issues occasionally. I like making things easier to work on, even if it never needs to be worked on. It's not much more work to terminate the wiring in a method that makes it easier to maintain. Plus it looks better when if you're under the dash and adding anything later.

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                  • I'll agree.. I started putting extra lights and switches on my flatbed, never finished.. Somebody says, "Bob, wires go behind the dash". Buddy says," there are wires behind the dash... I "should" redo it...

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                    • Ugh. Sanding on the firewall today, and dust everywhere. Also pulled the '52 Pontiac steering wheel and figured since I was spreading filler, I'd repair it and sand it also. It's got sun baked rash on the top outer rim, and a few dings. So filled and sanded them all and gave it a coat of 2x primer. Gave the firewall a couple coats also, and will sand some more tomorrow.
                      My front axle came with the lower shock mounts gone. They want $65 a pair for original mounts for the axle lower bracket, so I built some out of heavy 2" angle iron. When my shocks arrive I'll use the lower stud that comes with them and weld it into the lower mounts. Need to build upper mounts, but waiting until I have the shocks and can look at travel before I build them.

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                      • Finish sanded the steering wheel today and gave it a coat of desert sand color to match the dash. Then finish sanded the firewall and shot it in gloss black. After that I unwrapped the plastic on engine and trans, and bolted up the fenderwell headers with gaskets this time. Began cutting up the JEGS '68-'72 Chevelle 2.5" exhaust kit to fit it to my '39. Started with a 45 bend to get from collector to under the car. After that's tacked I'll go to the rear and begin at the fuel cell and work my way over the axle and forward until they meet up. I have a fair bit of work to get around the fuel cell, miss the shocks, and stay inside the ladder bars, but not get too close to the driveline. And once I get close to the front I have to fit the electric cutouts into the exhaust system in that first 45 degree run. Whew! Should be fun!

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                        • Hung the steering wheel again today, so it's there to stay....for now.



                          And the firewall I painted yesterday.



                          Started the exhaust system today, but had to repair my belt sander as the drive belt got so loose it wouldn't turn the sanding belt! But I got one side welded up, and the other side about half done before I decided to stop.









                          I also called about an '86 Camaro driveline on Craigslist because it had the 700R4 yoke, and was a good donor for parts. I got it home and stuffed it in the trans and checked the differential end and it was the perfect length! I thought it might be close to the right length, or maybe slightly short. But between the yoke body, and the 8.8 Ford flange on the rear it turned out to be perfect!
                          Only $60 and I dropped it off at the driveline shop to have him put two lifetime U joints in, and install the Ford flange, and balance it. He usually installs U joints for free, and the U joints themselves are only about $23 ea., so should be a cheap driveline.

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                          • I think I could have finished the exhaust system today if I didn't run out of gas the first few minutes!! Why does the gas mix always run out just as I start welding instead of just before I was going to quit? Had to stop when the welds got bad, and go get a new tank. I picked up some more cutoff discs while I was there because they had some really high quality discs at $11 per 10 discs. A really great price, and I should have bought a lot more than just 10 pack.
                            The back half of the exhaust system is all welded up, but just pushed into the muffler. Tomorrow I'll do the less fun part of laying under the car and welding the tailpipe to the muffler. Ugh!
                            My front shocks came today also, so once the exhaust is welded I can start on the front shocks.

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                            • Anyone ever heard of a company called "Tennecco"? It seems they've been busy buying up US auto parts makers lately. The "Monroe" gas shocks I ordered for my '39 came in a box marked Tennecco, and are white, not blue or yellow I expect from Monroe. I contacted the seller to complain about substitution with another brand and simply got a form letter telling me their description was "accurate".
                              So I began doing some searching and discovered Tennecco had purchased Monroe, Rancho, and about 6-7 other US makers. So likely the white shocks I got are probably from Rancho instead of Monroe. Ether way they aren't a substitute. Of course some gal named Cherry who deals with customer service is clueless about her company's products so she's not really answering customer concerns the way she should.

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                              • Man! That is wrong!

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