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1939 Chevy coupe

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Hit the Wed. night cruise at the drag strip last night. Temps were perfect at around 77 degrees, but we got beat to our favorite shade tree where we usually park. We were shown a spot in the sun, and after parking I noticed they'd set up a huge canopy for a 4th of July event this coming weekend. I walked over and asked the guy who parked us if we could park under the canopy, and he told me, "I don't know why not?" So we moved under the shade, and had premium parking!
    As soon as we pulled in, a bunch of others asked to park under the canopy also, and it filled up quickly! Was a nice cool spot for cars, and chairs!


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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Found another source for the 1.5 qt LF-692 oil filters, and they give a great discount for multiples! I got 4 coming my way for $7.46 each, and free shipping! Since I've got three vehicles that can use these I figured I'd stock up!

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    A lot cooler weather today, so I figured it's time to change oil in the '39 and dissect the oil filter to make sure there's no more metal particles still in the motor. I found a new high capacity oil filter recently that's sold under the Cummins Fleet Guard name, and is a #LF-692. These are supposedly made by WIX, and are a huge volume at almost 1.5 qt. capacity! But they sell for $4-$5 less than the same size WIX brand filters. Takes my oil capacity up to just over 7 qts. now, and gives me a lot more filter capacity too.
    Once I changed oil and filter I cut the old WIX open and cut the filter media apart to lay it out flat. Did a visual, and also ran a big magnet over the media, but no signs of any metal. So guess it didn't need a oil and filter change, but I needed to know all is OK now, and not wait until something might happen. Worth the $30 of VR-1 10w-30w and $12 filter for peace of mind.

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Yesterday we attended a family reunion for my mother's side of the family. A 200 mile round trip and temps got into the low 90's on the way home. First half of the trip down is all freeway at 65 MPH, and then the next half was curvy up and down rural roads. A nice change to the freeways, but some stupid bicycle event going on and stalling traffic often to wait to get around the idiots riding 3 wide down 55 mph roads.
    But the '39 ran 180 degrees all the way down and back, regardless of temps and stop-go traffic, or freeways. Filled up along the way home and the '39 got around 15 mpg for various driving, which I am pleased with. Usually does a little better if it's all freeway with the overdrive trans. Not a single glitch, and she sounded great, although my wife did mention the drone of the exhaust system at freeway speeds being a bit much. I'm too hard of hearing to care myself.
    Going to do another oil and filter change next week, just to make sure there's no residual junk in the system.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post

    Glad Ebay did the right thing and sent him packing.
    I'm sure he'll be back under another name, but yeah, nice to see him get some just desserts

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    The issue I had with the seller on my rack and pinion finally resolved. What a putz. He sent a stamp (basically) - USPS refused the package (otherwise I would have sent it COD)... but ebay was not amused at his antics. All his listings are gone. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes....
    Glad Ebay did the right thing and sent him packing.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    The issue I had with the seller on my rack and pinion finally resolved. What a putz. He sent a stamp (basically) - USPS refused the package (otherwise I would have sent it COD)... but ebay was not amused at his antics. All his listings are gone. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes....

    Leave a comment:


  • 1946Austin
    replied
    The seller ignored my reply to his email message and offer. So sent a 2nd reply through Ebay channels, and this morning he credited me the full cost of a replacement Accel shutter trigger. So persistence paid off, and all is well now.
    Drove the '39 to the drags/cruise in last night, and it's running fantastic, so might be staying with points for indefinite time period. Unless I just am bored one day, and nothing to do. Eventually I will go back to electronic ignition.

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Hope he does the right thing.
    Nothing but crickets so far. I sent another message this morning through Ebay, so he's aware they know of his delay in doing the right thing. I'll give him another 24 hrs., and then contact Paypal. Likely they'll credit me the full purchase price, and he'll be completely out. So hope he does right, and doesn't lose the entire amount of my purchase.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Hope he does the right thing.

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    It seems just getting the filaments swapped correctly fixed the issue. I haven't put a meter on a spare 1157 lamp yet to see the ohm difference between the park lamp filament and turnsignal/brake lamp filament? I assume the park lamp filament is lower resistance, and not enough on it's own with my LED rear lamps to fire a standard flasher. I don't want to use those LED electronic flashers, and looks like I don't need to now that they're working.

    I received my Accel points eliminator kit yesterday, and USPS broke the plastic shutter window that triggers the spark signal. But the parts were packed horrible with just one of those unpadded plastic mailing bags. I contacted the seller and told them one half of the shutter wheel was broken, and they sent a reply this morning telling me they'd credit my car for $6, so I could buy a replacement from Accel. I looked and found the replacement is $12, and $6 shipping, so wrote back and told them to either credit me the correct amount, or send me another complete kit.
    Today was garbage day, so yesterday I went trash can diving, and actually found my old shutter wheel from the kit I removed. But since this was an Ebay seller I'm going to make him do the right thing. So many Ebay sellers (like this guy) give guarantees, but when things go sideways they try to cheap out and not make it right if it costs them money. So I'll see if this guy makes it right, or I have to file a complaint with Paypal.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post

    I have dedicated grounds, and ground buss terminal strips at front, back, and dash. I don't ever wire a car using the body as a ground. Just seen far too many issues caused by poor grounding of automotive electrical systems.
    for completeness, the ground bus for the flasher is attached to the same one as the signal lights? I've had a continuing problem with this on my FJ40 - to the point I'm about to change lights because it doesn't take much voltage to illuminate the light - and it can be bleeding through the ground bus (in much the same a light can dimly shine when it's the unintentional ground path for something else like the headlights.. because I have my '40 on a battery tender, it's not a big deal - and the fix when the lights are dimly shining is to trigger the flasher......
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 13, 2022, 10:40 PM.

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    check your grounds.
    I have dedicated grounds, and ground buss terminal strips at front, back, and dash. I don't ever wire a car using the body as a ground. Just seen far too many issues caused by poor grounding of automotive electrical systems.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
    Drive to the Wed. night drags went great mechanically. Engine feels strong, and sounds perfect. Was pretty pleased, except for the stupid right turnsignal! Suddenly it decided to blink at about 1/4 speed, and I could see the dash indicator gradually get brighter until it got bright enough to flash. Never had this happen before, and I decided to troubleshoot it yesterday.
    When I built the '39 I installed all new wiring harness, and new lamps/sockets everywhere. I have LED's at the rear since '39's didn't have dual filament lamps for turnsignals. Up front I have new sockets for 1157's I built into my headlight reflectors. I checked all connectors at the steering column, and tried swapping flashers, although I didn't expect that to change anything. Then I went to the right headlamp and pulled it apart to try another bulb. No difference, so I went to put the old lamp back in, and forgot to turn off the turnsignal switch. It immediately started flashing normally! But I'd started the lamp in 180 degrees out, so it wouldn't lock in the socket. I turned it to correct orientation and it did the slow blink again!
    I cut the wires to the two contacts and switched them, and it began working normally again! I realized I'd wired park filament and turnsignal filaments reversed back 18 months ago. Now the question in my mind is why did it work for 18 months, but suddenly stop working? I know LED's need resistance load to fire the flasher, and maybe the dimmer park lamp filament wasn't enough load. But it was for 18 months. Weird.
    check your grounds.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Drive to the Wed. night drags went great mechanically. Engine feels strong, and sounds perfect. Was pretty pleased, except for the stupid right turnsignal! Suddenly it decided to blink at about 1/4 speed, and I could see the dash indicator gradually get brighter until it got bright enough to flash. Never had this happen before, and I decided to troubleshoot it yesterday.
    When I built the '39 I installed all new wiring harness, and new lamps/sockets everywhere. I have LED's at the rear since '39's didn't have dual filament lamps for turnsignals. Up front I have new sockets for 1157's I built into my headlight reflectors. I checked all connectors at the steering column, and tried swapping flashers, although I didn't expect that to change anything. Then I went to the right headlamp and pulled it apart to try another bulb. No difference, so I went to put the old lamp back in, and forgot to turn off the turnsignal switch. It immediately started flashing normally! But I'd started the lamp in 180 degrees out, so it wouldn't lock in the socket. I turned it to correct orientation and it did the slow blink again!
    I cut the wires to the two contacts and switched them, and it began working normally again! I realized I'd wired park filament and turnsignal filaments reversed back 18 months ago. Now the question in my mind is why did it work for 18 months, but suddenly stop working? I know LED's need resistance load to fire the flasher, and maybe the dimmer park lamp filament wasn't enough load. But it was for 18 months. Weird.

    Leave a comment:

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