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Delores - the Volvo that came with a name + Shed Barn Shop building details.

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  • #46
    Dash back together and onto the Alternator.

    Found this. Volvo used rubber isolators on the pivot mounts of the alternator. (Why? Any possible reason for that eludes me) and that necessitates a ground from the alternator to the rest of the vehicle.

    This is that ground. Or was that ground. Explains why the sudden loss of charging at least.

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    And of course a couple of studs broke. And at least they didn't break off flush, that would be too easy to weld to. Yep, recessed 3/16 or so.

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    And three or four cracks to go with the broken studs. Yippee. Apparently this place repairs them for $100ish. https://yoshifab.com/store/90-exhaus...k-service.html

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    Last edited by STINEY; November 25, 2019, 09:52 PM.
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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    • #47
      Bummer. Looks like a great excuse to go to headers - or a SBF!

      Dan

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      • #48
        Uff Da!


        I'll take crack repair for $100 Alex.
        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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        • #49
          I've had decent luck warming up iron manifolds with the torch, then mig welding cracks a bit at a time trying to keep heat somewhat constant.
          There's always something new to learn.

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          • #50
            Hey John, good to hear from you. Lots been going on.

            Did you do do anything special to cool them slowly? Special mig wire? How did the repair last?
            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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            • #51
              Been cleaning the engine, bay, and subframe crossmember. The turbo oil return is a weak leaky link on these, and this one is no different as it has leaked oil mist everywhere down low on the passenger side.

              The car came with an after market fix for the block-to-drain connection. Double o-ringed aluminum adapter that is also a press-fit to the factory drain hole in the block and adapts to an AN-10/push-loc connection. Installed that last evening, hammered it in with a block of wood to protect the aluminum flare machining, nice snug fit.

              Then turned my attention to the turbo drain to see where to best cut it for good access later.

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              That's when I noticed the witness marks on the part lines, and another crack on the turbine housing.

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              And took a good look at the exhaust housing near the wastegate.

              How much of this is a bad thing and how much is fairly normal wear? Am I catching a meltdown situation early or am I just paranoid?

              See the machined lip just above the impeller? It looks mottled light gray like its on the verge of melting to me....

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              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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              • #52
                I'll take pics of mine this afternoon and post them - heading out there in a few minutes.

                Dan

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                • #53
                  wait, the farmer is welding cast iron and is now into whirring magick boxes? I've watched Cole the Cornstar, they don't allow that kind of newfangled stuff in those parts

                  okay, questions answered:

                  Turbo is fine
                  Weld cast iron with either nickel arc welding rods - (Rod 99), which is 99% nickel. Or weld with Stainless wire in your Mig - you really only 'need' 15% nickel. So here's the deal, iron doesn't expand and contract like steel, it's also quite brittle. Nickel is a soft metal, so when you weld with straight nickel, you lose a lot of strength, 15% gives you strength but also gives some strength because it's alloyed with steel.

                  Cooling. warm to 450*, cool slowly - most recommend 100* per hour.... or bury the part in oven-heated sand then let it cool naturally... the WHOLE point of slow cooling is so the alloy material (nickel) doesn't contract too fast and re-crack... with Mig wire, that is far less of a problem because the steel cools at roughly the same rate as iron.... whatever you do, don't quench or cool - but with that said, large pieces, you heat them as well as you can, then pull the propane torch away slowly - but that said, heat is drawn from the area so it's not really a controlled cooling, more a slowed crash to temp.

                  And finally, brazing. honestly if there is no strength requirement, I'd braze far faster then the other options..... brazing is akin to bondo on sheet metal, no strength but a viable solution in some cases... with brazing there is no need to mitigate the cooling.

                  and finally finally.... this is an overview, if you wish a class, I charge $250 a hour, it takes 6 weeks and I require jelly beans in my Class A accommodations.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • #54
                    Perfect. But don't eat the jelly beans my kids will give you....they have the "alternative tastes" flavors. Nothing worse than a vomit flavored jelly bean.....
                    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                    • #55
                      I'm sure SBG is right but here's my pics anyway. Remember, these are from a Diesel so the temps are (generally) lower.

                      The first 3 are from the too big turbo I ran the last couple of seasons. It doen't have many miles but almost all were at WOR.

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                      And pics from a high-mileage turbo from my back-up engine. It has well over 200K miles and seems to be the OEM unit from Stuttgart.

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                      And a closeup of something that looks a tiny bit like what you showed. I think it's just aluminum oxidation but you can see for yourself.
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                      Don't know if this is useful but that's all I have to offer.

                      Dan

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                      • #56
                        Was chatting with my kid last night, we got to talking about this cast iron welding, he said he was talking to a friend whose manifold I brazed for about 20 years ago, he was saying the kid still drives that Nova with my braze work.. Kid was saying my work was the best that was done. Brazingseems to be a lost art.

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                        • #57
                          I spent some time on Delores while coach my son on his Buick. Welded manifold is back and looks good - - but I just can't quite put it back together without port matching the turbo to the exhaust manifold. There is a 1/4" step there all the way around that is just begging for improvement.

                          Made some preliminary cuts while starting to remove broken studs. Trying to decide if I should upgrade those studs to 10mm over the 8mm they came with stock. What say you?

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                          Took apart the home-brewed engine mounts from the PO. They are quite harsh which I don't normally mind, but these buzz the dash/cowl something fierce.

                          The steel sleeve in the mount is the same thickness as the rubber biscuit, making it in essence a solid metal mount once tightened down. I should just cut the sleeve in half and reassemble, but I have already ordered OEM Volvo Diesel mounts which are supposed to be stronger than the gas versions, so I will go ahead and use the diesel ones.

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                          Tossed on some fog lamps I found at HF. They loosely resemble the Marschals that were one it previously.

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                          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                          • #58
                            I've only done it on a daily driver beater, but it worked - cracked exhaust manifold on an escort, ran the engine to warm up the casting, used regular mig wire (not ideal should have used stainless) welded some, ran the engine, welded some more. It was one of those " I can't make it worse" situations, it was already broken. It ran that way leak free for several thousand miles, I eventually sold it and it still wasn't leaking.
                            There's always something new to learn.

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                            • #59
                              Backordered parts finally arrived. Installed the diesel motor mounts after making some minor modifications to the mounting brackets. The diesel mounts are supposed to be stronger than the gas versions. More importantly I also installed the oil/heat shield for the passenger side since the oil filter is right above the mount and it takes a oil bath with each filter change.

                              Passenger side went in easy, driver side fought me for a couple hours before it was vanquished.

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                              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                              • #60
                                Tomorrow this building gets a 20x40 loft. Volvo gets pushed out tonight, everything else runs (it feels odd to say that, not a normal situation at all)

                                To be continued tomorrow.....

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                                Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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