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Rough Start Fox Mustang: Tips, Tricks, Parts, Etc.

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  • Rough Start Fox Mustang: Tips, Tricks, Parts, Etc.

    Alright, let's get this going in full, because the first goal for this car is to party at Ford Fest right at the beginning of October and that is NOT that far away. Between now and then I need to make this 1989 Mustang LX run, drive, steer, stop, and if I can make those four happy, move on to "be violent". I really want that last part to happen. So, here's what I've got on hand:

    The car: bone-stock 4cyl Mustang with a currently unknown 8.8 in the back. I won't know more until I get the Imperial off of jackstands (header install) and can put the Fox up in the air. There are no rear springs. Electrical system is stock four-cylinder. Brakes will be looked at once car is in aiir.

    Engine: 1987 E7TE roller 302. Need to do a once-over just to make sure it's still happy after being removed for over a year, but suspect it'll fire no problem.
    Transmission: A4LD automatic. Good chance it was under water, wouldn't hold up anyways. Want to manual convert eventually.


    We've got weather pouring through W.KY here for the next week, so my focus is on the Imperial, which is occupying real estate at my father in law's garage. Once the temperature comes back from the Arctic and the Imperial is back on the ground, I want to rip into the Mustang. The only constraints I'm putting down: I'm staying within the $5,000 Rough Start budget, the turbine wheels must stay put, and the car remains street legal...and not in the "nudge, nudge, wink, wink" form either. I'm all but positive that the electrical system is OK, it just looked like I have a couple of dead bulbs and the usual dim dash lights these cars are known for. Not to worry, I'm planning on obtaining a 140MPH speedo cluster to replace the original unit. I'm thinking that upgrading to V8 spindles to get better front brakes is a good idea, but I'm still looking into that. I'm concerned about the wiring harness, and how it can be used for a carbureted V8. For that matter, the fuel system too.

    That's what I've got...what can you help with?
    Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

    "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

  • #2
    all I have is words
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #3
      I'm trying to remember any details from when I built my 'Stang. Basically, the engine ought to be OK and you'll want to pick up an AOD. They have a bad rep but for a moderate HP engine it ought to be fine. The 8.8 should be fine - they're pretty tough. I'd pull the cover and check for filings and chunks but it's probably fine. Sounds like the engine has been sitting for a while so I'd replace the front and rear seals and spin up the oil pump to build pressure - the usual stuff. Rear springs ought to be a no-brainer - I tossed my stock ones when we moved or I'd send them to you. Milner 351 might have a set - worth asking. Do anything you can to avoid changing the heater core - it's a bugger to do!

      If I think of more I'll send it along.

      Dan

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      • #4
        For 5000 bucks you can build a ridiculously fun Fox.

        1. Use Rockauto liberally. You can get really good deals on parts there.

        2. V8 brakes are not a necessity. I've gone 130+mph *a lot* on the small brakes. Prob not good for autox, but fine for normal stuff.

        3. 4 banger fuel system would prob be fine for a carb'd V8. Just put a return reg in and turn the pressure down.

        4. A T5 makes these cars fun. We have a 4cyl T5 in the 83GT and it works great. I probably wouldn't do an automatic unless I was doing a turbo or nitrous.

        5. Ignition: A standalone ignition like a Duraspark setup or our Duraspark dist/GM Hei/TFI coil hybrid would work just fine.

        6. Rear gears. We have 3.55's in ours but JWS4621 has 3.73's and I think his are a better match.


        Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
        1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
        1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
        1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
        1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
        1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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        • #5
          I forgot to add Russell's name to the parts source list. Pretty sure he has a stash, too. And I think I still have a set of new chrome valve covers that came on the BluePrint engine in the Volvo. Want 'em?

          Dan

          Comment


          • #6
            Be careful this thing could nickel and dime you to death. Carb should be pretty easy if you have all the parts.

            Fuel: electric or mechanical pump? Regulator? Stock line should be able to adapt. Carb throttle cable is diffdifferent?

            Spark: what do you have from the other car? A Duraspark can be set up cheap and it works.

            Front dress: ? Depends on the timing cover and water pump.

            clutch / brake pedal cost about $100 you might need and after market quadrant, firewall adjuster, clutch cable, separator plate, flywheel, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, bell housing, clutch fork, trans, I don't think the drive shaft is the same.

            I don't think you will need a lot for the electric system. You might need to extend some stuff and figure out what to cut and splice.

            I have never done the carb swap before the Capri was already carb, I have done auto to 5-speed in the capri. I do have some Ford / mustang parts but not as much as I did. I have been selling stuff to make room.

            ​​​​​​​Dan I think I sold the chrome valve covers for you a couple years ago.
            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

            PB 60' 1.49
            ​​​​​​

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Russell View Post
              Be careful this thing could nickel and dime you to death. Carb should be pretty easy if you have all the parts.

              ​​​​​​​Dan I think I sold the chrome valve covers for you a couple years ago.
              You're probably right. I can chalk it up to old age but in truth I never could remember stuff. I'll have to look on the mezzanine and see what I might have.

              Dan

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              • #8
                My car has 4.10 gears don't Fear the Gear! BBR is getting extra gear with the really low 1st gear in that 4 cylinder trans!

                Post lost of pictures! I don't remember was this thing running in the 94?

                If you don't care about nice you can probably take 400 pounds out of it. It's like Free HP. All I ever do is add stuff to my car but the working AC is nice!
                Last edited by Russell; January 18, 2020, 07:10 PM.
                http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                PB 60' 1.49
                ​​​​​​

                Comment


                • #9
                  Some updates...
                  • Springs are not a problem. Surprise, they really were there all along. Just have to hook up shocks, brake lines, and find hardware for the control arms...I'm missing nuts. Rear gears seem like 3.55, will do a proper measurement with marks later.
                  • If V8 brakes aren't an ultimate necessity, I'll just give the take-off rotors from the Pumpkin a quick turn, check bearings and use.
                  • I'd rather get the heater core done now. The AC lines were hacked, so I can pull the box back further from the firewall. The seats are out, the console is out. If not now, when, right?
                  • Fuel pump is whatever was stock right now. Would like to keep hack to a minimum at the moment, will be carb'd. Have a Lokar cable at the ready, could source a V8 cable if I need to.
                  • Don't sweat dress-up stuff. The E7TE already has a pretty solid set of covers on it.
                  • If 3.55 gears are posi, they stay. If not, I've got 4.10s at the ready that I know have posi.
                  • There's enough inside that I'm caring enough about nice. I'm not gutting it, for sure.
                  • You can click THIS LINK to hear the engine running in the '94. It idled well and was a snappy revver. Still free, still clean, been stored indoors, sealed up.
                  Right now I'm thinking order of work will be rear axle systems, brakes (they hang badly), heater core, front end inspection, 2.3/auto removal, 302 install. I'm really not wanting to find an automatic for this car. I've got a C6 and a 4R70W I could unload.
                  Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

                  "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If this is a street use car, you don't NEED bigger brakes. or the different wheel lug pattern it require (different wheels).
                    Nor do you NEED the higher mph gauge cluster. Both are money you'll spend that isn't required.
                    I'll "guess" That in your country those parts are just a junkyard away. But the time to goto it, and pull them. And what they'll cost.


                    I'll Guess you have a cell phone that is a smart phone, Down load a speedo app if you need to see speeds past the limits of the stock one. You'll need a phone mount anyways, just use the app.
                    Now if you are going to autocross this thing a lot. and not just 1 or 2 times. but a lot. Then ya, maybe the bigger brakes swap,
                    Or dare I say it, run those at the events and get a base line before the swap to see if it is really worth any sizable gains.
                    Did the 4 bangers come with an 8,8 rear. or is that something that was already swapped out.? and already has the 5 lug pattern.
                    Just thinking out loud on how to save funds, that could be put to better use. like better fitting headers or better tires/shocks
                    Last edited by Eric; January 19, 2020, 01:53 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Eric View Post
                      Now if you are going to autocross this thing a lot. and not just 1 or 2 times. but a lot. Then ya, maybe the bigger brakes swap,
                      Or dare I say it, run those at the events and get a base line before the swap to see if it is really worth any sizable gains.
                      Did the 4 bangers come with an 8,8 rear. or is that something that was already swapped out.? and already has the 5 lug pattern.
                      Just thinking out loud on how to save funds, that could be put to better use. like better fitting headers or better tires/shocks
                      The car will see autocross/road course events, but that will be further down the road, and I believe I can keep the four-lug pattern and even the 15" wheels while upgrading to better units eventually. Right now, the budget is to get it up, going, and safe to use. After those requirements are met, then the fun can begin. So paying for replacement seatbelts, for example, takes priority. The cluster is an easy one-unit swap, and with so many of these cars being chopped up into race cars, locating one isn't too bad and it's a bolt-in. The brakes will come in time, but for now the standard units will work.

                      Four cylinder cars came with a 7.5 inch rear axle stock. The 8.8 was usually a V8 option. This car has a swapped-in 8.8 with four-lug pattern, and has 3.55 gears. I also have a 7.5 rear axle with 4.10 gears that can be bolted in if that's not enough gear. I'm also looking at subframe connectors and maybe a "monte carlo" bar for the front shock towers.

                      Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

                      "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The front bar and frame connectors along with a Maximum Motorsports 6 point cage made a HUGE difference on my car. Of course, I have a convert so it was kinda shaky from the factory. The maker of my frame connectors is no more, sadly, as they're STOUT!

                        Dan

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                        • #13
                          Okay, first up on the list is heater core and A/C evaporator. Considering that I've done half of the work, I might as well go all-in and yank the dash out and do these before I start putting everything back together. From where I stand, this is one of those mythical pain-in-the-ass deals nobody wants to do. Far as I see, it's a dash removal, not the worst thing in the world, really. Anybody got any advice before I break out my plastic pry-bar set for the HVAC vents?
                          Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

                          "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Might as well start with dropping the column. Not complete removal, but lowering it down to the seat will be necessary and easier to do first than after you realize it is needed.
                            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                            • #15
                              I did mine so long ago that I don't remember details other than it WAS a chore. Just take your time and walk away when you get frustrated rather than break something. Oh - you'll need a full box of Band Aids.

                              Dan
                              Last edited by DanStokes; January 31, 2020, 08:32 AM.

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