With a budget in mind ... It looks like that half is where all the good stuff is and they remove the parts as need and when they're finished with them they move them over to the pick & pull section.
That sucks. No Facebook Marketplace? Example down here, pretty complete
Our PnP is fully up and running. They have you mask up and once in the yard everyone is pretty well distanced so I don't see that as an issue. Sorry your yard couldn't make it.
Dan
Turns out that Covid 19 had little to do with the closure . The owner of the business of 30 plus years was ready to pack it in plus the value of the land was worth more than the business . The yard had quite the sign out front . The yard was in Chilliwack,BC . The city has inquired about obtaining the sign which the owner was happy to do. Should be interesting to see what happens.
what is the cost comparison between keeping an LS swap EFI, using factory / junkyard computer and harness (anti- theft issues?)
and
using a stand alone ignition controller, aftermarket intake, and carb? (assuming you can get a used carb cheap and rebuild it)
what is the cost comparison between keeping an LS swap EFI, using factory / junkyard computer and harness (anti- theft issues?)
and
using a stand alone ignition controller, aftermarket intake, and carb? (assuming you can get a used carb cheap and rebuild it)
Eww. turbo and carb... lol.
Buying a blowthrough carb and manifold would be more than a push. Biggest reason I would see staying EFI is E-85 / ethanol sensor and keeping the timing advanced.
what is the cost comparison between keeping an LS swap EFI, using factory / junkyard computer and harness (anti- theft issues?)
and
using a stand alone ignition controller, aftermarket intake, and carb? (assuming you can get a used carb cheap and rebuild it)
Easy enough to answer. it's about the same dollars... figure $2500 to make either work on EFI or carb. While carb prices have climbed a bit (and don't forget ignition as well), EFI is 'cheap' but it's not as cheap as the magazines keep trying to claim.
With that said, unless your motor is making at least 300 hp, the rationale to use anything but an LS is out the window.
And no matter what the pundits say - 300 hp or more out of a SBC is neither easy nor affordable.
there, that should get the comments flowing. and for those who are warming their keyboards to defend their actions.... I just did a SBC in the '40 (with 2 different EFI systems), an LS in the Buick wagon, and EFI on my BB 427 C3.... and the truth is dollar per hp - the BBC wins in a landslide.
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; August 4, 2020, 11:51 AM.
what is the cost comparison between keeping an LS swap EFI, using factory / junkyard computer and harness (anti- theft issues?)
and
using a stand alone ignition controller, aftermarket intake, and carb? (assuming you can get a used carb cheap and rebuild it)
For a stock N/A engine I would use the factory harness and computer. There are videos on YouTube showing LS droid (free) turning off anti theft and tuning. I want to build a bench harness and see if I can get it to work on a Junk yard ECU. For a turbo engine I would go with Holley EFI just for the data logging. There may be other stand alones that are just as good. The only one I have played with is the Holley.
I plan to make life easy on myself and go with the Holley Terminator X ecu . It's plug and play pretty much . I don't want to deal with stripping down a factory harness or having it done and then messing with the factory computer . There are guys out there doing great things with the factory stuff but it's not for me. I've got the Dominator ecu in my Cougar and it's crazy all the things it can do . From what I've seen the Terminator X will be everything I need and more. I'll be running throttle cable and not DBW and a Turbo 400 so I won't need the Max X .
And no matter what the pundits say - 300 hp or more out of a SBC is neither easy nor affordable.
there, that should get the comments flowing. and for those who are warming their keyboards to defend their actions.... I just did a SBC in the '40 (with 2 different EFI systems), an LS in the Buick wagon, and EFI on my BB 427 C3.... and the truth is dollar per hp - the BBC wins in a landslide.
Sacrilege SBG. 300 hp. Seriously? Grab a Vortec 350, slap an RV cam in it, a 650 Holley and Performer on it, 59.95 Super Shops headers, mount it on the dyno. It'll be over 300 even if the heads are cracked.
That said, I'll let you know on bang for buck here pretty quick. I think I have your BBC covered for HP/$, we'll see.
LS / Turbo and no heartache/headache from Holley versus hackery with the factory harness and HP Studios tuner or whatever is the thing now sounds like a solid plan. I'm too cheap for it, but everybody I hear is babbling happiness about Holley right now.
I snuck in a little job before bed tonight . I install a trans temp sensor in the pan ,I welded in a little plate so the sensor could get a better bite .
Heck yeah, every few minutes spent! I'm still on the "Do it for 2 minutes a day even if don't really want to" plan and it is working for me for... at least 2 minutes.
Figured I would share my cheapness story of the day with you. I'm looking at the Microsquirt docs and in Optional Tools it highly recommends an Oscilloscope. For some reason, I think that's going to make it less inexpensive and user friendly. On the other hand, what mad scientist lab is complete without an Oscilloscope? That Holley is starting to sound sexier and sexier... lol.
I'm the Trump of the automotive world I'll tell you what the media doesn't want you to know
I've built 2 Vortec motors, one with a Vortec head on a 70s truck motor (PF1) and one that is powering my FJ40. 300 hp. It's a great 300 hp, the best, but it's 300 hp.
I can only imagine how many hearts I'm going to break when I finally get the LS powered Buick wagon running because there is no way on this planet that it will be whatever the cam and headers number that the world seems to think they make - 525? 650? all of them?
Making it on a dyno with an electric water pump and no accessories or transmission to drive is always the hero number... and those numbers don't lie unless the dyno operator wants them to (cold water, cold air, 114 octane race gas and max timing, acceleration ramp, whatever other tricks). To be blunt, I'm not as much interested in the numbers other than a frame of reference for A-B testing and benefiting from somebody with deeper pockets than me doing the homework. I'm from the "if it feels good, do it" generation. I completely agree with everyone who ever said dyno numbers are a tool, they don't win races.
Everyone likes a BIG hp # but how many of us will ever really know how much hp we’re making and frankly does it matter ? . Like Beagle says “if it feels good do it “. We all like turning the screws or tapping the keys to get these machines to perform at their best . Isn’t that what we’re all in this for ?.
and to further derail - it is a rare test that is A/B test. Engine Masters is notorious for doing this "we're testing these cams" oh yeah, and we'll change intake for the last pull".... really? maybe they can't help themselves, but my biggest gripe against HRM is they could be a source of knowledge - but nope, now it's just a source of Mopar.
Probably not a bad idea for a new thread because there is lots to say about this without completely trashing langleylad's build page. I've never gotten a good handle on how Westech Performance Group gets tied in with old Petersen titles, but that group seems tight knit. Time is money though. Ten years ago when I checked, it was 700.00 a day (12 hours max) here for a dyno cell and operator. I don't suspect that has gone down, and there are end goals to magazine dyno testing. Namely selling copy and those hero number parts that buy advertisement!!!
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