Trailer Redux Too

[DanStokes]

Somehow I killed my Trailer Redux thread - I thought I was saving it while I uploaded a pic. Oh, well - I'll start over.

The removable parts of Mutt the Race Truck's cage are at the weldor's shop so I got back on the trailer which I'll need if I'm going to make it to ECTA (Arkansas) in October.

I reinstalled the plug yesterday but I have a bit of wiring to sort out on that - just a matter of tracing wires from here to there. But the big thing is, I picked up the lumber at Godwin's here in town. Not sure if this is still true but at one time they cooked their own pressure treated lumber and the pressure vessels are still there so I'd like to think that this is local stuff. Anyhow, they bundled the whole pile up for me and loaded it on the deckless trailer just as nice as you please. The down side is that I didn't think to remover the transition piece from the deck to the beaver tail so I had to unload all the lumber before I could start the redecking process. So here's the result of today's efforts:



A) I'm old

B) The heat index was 93*

C) New pressure treated lumber is HEAVY and....

D) I'm old.

This pretty well shot my energies for the day but tomorrow I'll see if I can sort out that wiring and start cutting and fitting the deck and beaver tail.

Dan

[BBR]

One thing I did when I redecked my trailer was to lay out all the boards on the trailer except one, then slip a couple of scissor jacks in and mash them all together tight before screwing them down. Then I ripped the last board on the tablesaw to the width that was left.

This was non-treated wood so shrinkage was somewhat minimal. Treated stuff tends to shrink a lot so it may not be worth the effort.

[Deaf Bob]

Problem with installing dry decks is when they get wet, they may pull out the bolts/screws... Swelling has to go somewhere..

[Beagle]

I'm not sure about NC, but treated southern yellow pine down here in Texas is so wet when it's new, it's guaranteed to shrink. The way mine was built, similar to yours, the boards took a natural bend. Hooked them in the back and screwed them down, then tacked the front plate back on. What broke me, ten years ago, was drilling and tapping something like 196 holes for the boards and countersinking all the holes in the boards. When it was originally built, it was built with hardened self taping 1/4 inch screws. I broke most of them trying to take them out. I used 1/4-20 and backed them up with lock washers and nuts going back together. They would have ripped a hole through the wood if the wood became swolen. Heh. Heh heh. Heh. He said.. countersink.

[oletrux4evr]

I have re-decked a 4-horse trailer and my 16' flat deck car hauler and did not bolt down any of the decking. I use treated lumber..................it does shrink, but not excessively. After 20 years or so I think it's alright.

[DanStokes]

I'm not sure about NC, but treated southern yellow pine down here in Texas is so wet when it's new, it's guaranteed to shrink. The way mine was built, similar to yours, the boards took a natural bend. Hooked them in the back and screwed them down, then tacked the front plate back on. What broke me, ten years ago, was drilling and tapping something like 196 holes for the boards and countersinking all the holes in the boards. When it was originally built, it was built with hardened self taping 1/4 inch screws. I broke most of them trying to take them out. I used 1/4-20 and backed them up with lock washers and nuts going back together. They would have ripped a hole through the wood if the wood became swolen. Heh. Heh heh. Heh. He said.. countersink.

I got fancy and ordered up the self drilling self tapping screws which are exactly what mine was put together with in the first place. If my measurements are right (somewhat questionable) 15 2X6 boards (actual measurement 5 1/2" wide as we all know) should just about exactly fill the space. If need be I'll rip the last one but my plan is to crunch then together with the spreader from my HF Porta Power.

I had planned to sort the wiring today but I'll have to work outdoors (the shop is full right now) and today was just TOO hot and muggy. I usually goof off in the AM and go to work after lunch but tomorrow I'll get out there bright and early (well, just early as I won't be very bright).

Dan

[DanStokes]

I got up earlyish and get to work before it got crazy hot - our temps and humidity have been nutso recently. So I got the lights working properly but no brakes. Not sure what's going on but if I can't think me way thru it I'll take it to the cheap trailer place and see if they can sort it out.

I also cut the first board and tacked it in place with the self drilling/self tapping screws which were worth the investment (I'll post a pic tomorrow). Originally the outside boards just butted up to the channel that forms the outside of the frame but I got fancy and ripped about a 20ish degree angle on the edge and forced it under the channel. The cut was a bit tricky (again, pic tomorrow when I do the other side - I'll see if I can get ME to take a shot) but it fits and looks much better to my eye.

Dan

[Beagle]

Tricky scarf cut is okay if we don't get another "don't do this" episode. I just buried my table saw to get the truck in the garage, and there have been a couple of Dangit moments already.

[DanStokes]

I'll unveil my technique tomorrow. Semi-clever if I do say so myself.

Dan

[DanStokes]

Here's the promised pics.
The long, straight. angled rip. This makes the edge thin enough to fit under the outside channel. I put 2 of the 2X6 boards on edge along with the one to be cut, snapped a chalk line down the length of the subject board, set the saw at the angle shown (it was as deep as the blade would cut) and knocked the edge off.I'm pleased that the angle is so uniform down the length of the board. BTW, the Makita is an 8" saw ans you might not get quite so much angle with a regular sized circular saw. As you can see, I DID get ME to take a pic of me playing at being manly.



The screws and driver that I'm using to hold down the deck. I ordered them online and they're almost exactly what was used to hold the trailer together when new. They're spline drive and the little wings near the bottom of the screw cut a clearance hole thru the wood. Once the self drilling part goes thru the metal the wings shear off and the screw tightens right down on the metal. Pretty coll. I found it's easier if I drill thru with a 3/16 bit first but that WILL self drill if I want to shove harder.



And a screw going in. Nothing to it but if you want to self-drill all the way it does take a bit of shoving.



I'm a bit stumped on the brake wiring so I may leave the rest of the deck off until the trailer place sorts out the brakes just because it's easier to get to all the wiring.

Dan

[DanStokes]

So the trailer is back from the pro shop (Marine Warehouse here in Wilmington). They ended up rewiring it as the color codes were not the standard used in the trailer world and it made it tough to follow and sort out what was wrong. I was OK with that and the price wasn't TOO bad. So now it's back home and I've finished the deck so it's pretty much ready to go to work. I'll add some carriage head thru bolts to secure the 12" riser shown in the pic. I also have some paint touch-up where the powdercoat didn't take.



Dan