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  • Stanger

    Now that the Volvo is back with its person and Mutt the Race Truck is ready to run (I hope) I've dug Stanger out of his long rest in the back corner of the shop. This is WAY overdue! I'll tell you, it's a workout moving a car around in the shop all by myself, even on car skates. When the remnants of TS Eta finally blow by I'll pull Mutt out, transfer Stanger to the hoist, and put Mutt in the flat stall.

    All of Stanger's fluids need to be changed and the fuel tank needs to come down. I can smell skunky gas from outside the tank so it's good and funky. I'm in a bit of a quandary on the paint - it needs doing but not sure whether to do it myself or take it to Harry, the guy who did Truck (the Dodge Diesel). Either way I'll strip the old boy with sandpaper (a couple of dusty days) and do something to make the terrible door gaps look better - they came from the factory BAD! If I pull the front fenders I might be able to improve them but I won't be surprised if I have to build up the rear gap with weld.

    So anyhow, the project begins. Pics of Stanger in the flat stall on his way to the hoist and of the rear area under the mezzanine with the tool boxes moved and the shop space better utilized.

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    And the rear space:

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    More better!
    Last edited by DanStokes; November 13, 2020, 09:59 AM.

  • #2
    I have been hoping we would get to see that 351 powered Fox someday. Looks good even with being a little dusty. Whats it say on the hood?
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.


    • #3
      I feel your pain. I've had an Alfa 164LS sitting on my lift for the better part of a year. I've accumulated enough crap underneath it that I'll have to clear storage to move the stuff just so I can drop it down to work on it.

      Love them Foxbody Fords.


      • #4
        1) No LS! I don't DO bellybutton engines. I'm not saying they don't make power - they certainly do - but I always do somewhat odd stuff and this is about as conventional as I get. If I did any engine swap it would be a BBB or maybe an LA Chrysler as I like the odd stuff.

        2) On the hood it says NO N2O. When I built this in the 90's it was standard saying that if it was a Fox it was on nitrous. You wouldn't believe how many people walk up, look at the hood call out, and ask "Is it on nitrous?" DUHhhhhhh.

        3) Yes, this is WAY overdue. I'm thinking about 10 years overdue.

        So today's activities. I got it moved into the hoist stall, Mutt in the flat stall, and the trailer back on the pad outside the flat stall door. Lots of shuffling.

        Now for pics of the crappy door gaps. Remember, this is how Ford shipped the car back in 1988. I did change the RF fender and corrected that gap a bit but I should have fussed with it more. The plan when I put the car together was to flip it (we like him so we named him and kept him) so I didn't put as much into alignments as I should have. All these adjustments are complicated by the fact that the gap along the bottom is more or less straight!

        Passenger's rear, the worst one:

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        Passenger's front which is pretty good until right after the upper body line. Not sure what to do with that - it's an aftermarket fender and that may be as good as it gets. Given the crappy factory fits maybe it isn't so bad.

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        Driver's Front. Not too bad but I'm thinking the whole driver's door could slide back 1/8 or so.

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        Driver's rear. Here's why I'm thinking it'll look better if I slide the door back.

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        I'll include one more pic here but I'm also going to post it in "General" as not everybody looks at these build threads. I need input! What to do about the leaks? I installed it according to Trick Flow's directions and it was dry before I parked it. (Yes, I'm changing the fluid in this pic.)

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        Last edited by DanStokes; November 13, 2020, 03:28 PM.


        • #5
          It's a racecar, the only gap to worry about is to the guy behind (hopefully) you.

          Pull the cover, reseal.


          • #6
            Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy
            that's interesting.... the shell is bending on the passenger side, driver's side... not so much
            It seems to have been welded together wrong at the factory. These were built as coupes w/o top then shipped to Brighton, MI and turned into converts there. Reinforcements were added in Brighton so the car didn't fold in half but if they were added to a crooked body well, it stayed crooked. Guessing that's what happened. I tried to stress it back toward straight when I added the roll bar but didn't have much success. It aligns and drives out well (or at least it did the last time I drove him) so it must not be TOO far off. Still, it's annoying.



            • #7
              Say Dan

              Looking at the door gaps, about how many times would you say you've jumped it? - just approximately?
              Last edited by Red_Kitty; November 15, 2020, 04:11 PM.


              • #8
                Did someone jack it up wrong? Fox mustangs are pretty flimsy (especially convertibles!).

                If I remember right, doesn't this car have a 351 and AOD? I could be remembering that wrong...


                • #9

                  1) Never jumped it but I wonder if it would help. Seems like it might tighten that right side rear gap.

                  2) It's always been that way. When I installed the roll bar I tried to "jack it up wrong" to get the body to bend before I welded in the down bars, hoping to improve that right rear gap. It didn't bend even though I tried jumping up and down on it in an effort to bend things a bit. So yes they are flimsy but not THAT flimsy.



                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pats91 View Post
                    If I remember right, doesn't this car have a 351 and AOD? I could be remembering that wrong...
                    I believe you are correct. Lentech valve bodied AOD. I can't remember if the whole trans came from them or not. Dan?

                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.


                    • #11
                      It's almost a Lentech. I had calls back and forth with Len Bertrand in Canada and it turns out that (at least at that time) it was REALLY pricey to import a whole trans but relatively cheap to import transmission parts so he sold me everything that makes a Lentech a Lentech and the trans was built by a good shop in Ann Arbor using all of Len's goodies including the converter he recommended.

                      Interestingly, the pan is off the trans right now as I replace the filter and ATF as part of renewing everything so Stanger can get back on the road. It all looks great in there with only the slightest bit of black stuff in the bottom of the pan. I'll need to check on what ATF they recommend but I think it's just Mercron or synthetic equivalent.

                      As far as the diff leak: I pulled the girdle and found that I had just sealed it with RTV and no gasket. I got a Fel Pro gasket from Advance and put the lightest coat of RTV on each side and bolted the whole deal back together. BTW - Advance didn't show a blue gasket so I went with the regular one. Mobil 1 fluid is now back in and so far all looks dry. I feel better seeing the girdle all clean and fresh.

                      Pats91 - The engine is actually a real 5.8L from a '96 pickup. It was a Ford Engineering sample that they left at a machine shop that built some assembly fixtures off of it - it was "abandoned in place". Anyhow, the 5.8s have the taller lifter bores and has the bosses for the roller lifter spiders so essentially the same changes as between a 302 and a 5.0. Minor but it matters when buying valve train bits.

                      Last edited by DanStokes; November 17, 2020, 10:35 AM.


                      • #12
                        Not too much pic-worthy today but a couple of shots anyway:

                        The rear end all resealed and filled. Kinda looks like before only clean. If you look closely you'll see a little line of grey around the girdle where the RTV shows.

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                        And the trans all clean and with a new filter and gasket/RTV. It had been oozing pretty much all the way around but given how long it has been since it ran it might just be AFT working its way thru the gasket - this DID have a gasket unlike the diff. I haven't refilled the trans yet but I checked Lentech's website and he recommends Mercon V or synthetic equivalent so I think I'll go with the Mobil 1 ATF.

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                        That's all for today



                        • #13
                          Drained the engine and then added fresh Mobil 1 oil as well as several quarts of Mobil 1 ATF to the trans so nothing will be dry when I first turn the key.

                          Then on to the fuel tank, a job I haven't been looking forward to. I know it was parked with some amount of fuel but really no idea of how much and as I mentioned it smelled skunky. It wasn't too difficult to unhook the lines and electrical though the high pressure line was melted at the filter end and I had to cut the line. I'll have to renew that line when I reinstall the tank but it sure made an easy job a PITA. Here's a pic of the molten connector:

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                          So the tank is now out of the body but I'll have to siphon the fuel out before I move it. Seems to be about half full. I tried to take a shot inside the tank thru the filler hole so y'all could see how funky it is but this is as good as I could get it. The fuzzy looking stuff inside is all rust.

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                          So I'll need a tank, fuel pump assembly, level sender, roll over valve, and all the gaskets, etc. Pricey but a lot cheaper than sorting this out if I'd tried to run it this way.

                          Last edited by DanStokes; November 19, 2020, 06:29 PM.


                          • #14
                            Tanks out and drained and I have a price coming from (I think I have the name right) in Locust NC, close enough to go pick up the parts. His prices look reasonable and he's easy to deal with. He'll shoot me a price early next week.

                            Here's the stuff that came out of the tank. Nasty, no? The only thing that looks like it MIGHT be usable is the pump itself and I'm going to a Walbro 255 so I won't use it anyhow.

                            And a better look inside the tank with the sender and pump assembly out:

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                            SO glad that I pulled this tank out!



                            • #15
                              My fuel lines were filled with the same spooge... to the point where I waited for replacement lines which only cost me a few years because no forward motion. I did put a blow gun on the lines at one point out of curiosity, and they shot nastiness all over the just cleaned engine compartment. That may have dampened my spirits (read: halted my efforts). From what I can tell the supply line is okay sized for a return line when you put bigger supply lines in it for when you twin turbo later.

                              Late Model Restoration has been decent enough to get stuff from over the years too. My original tank is ***STILL*** stinking up the back yard and it's been empty for several years now.
                              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.