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  • Oh and I believe that dad also wanted a bomb shelter, hence the reason why the slab was so thick. Mom had food stored in the room under the kitchen, and when we cleaned the house out in 83 before she sold it, we threw away an awful lot of rusted tin cans and mason jars, with what we were afraid to know.

    I don't know what good it would have been, no power, ventilation, but there was a spring under another part of the house that flowed thru there. At least we wouldn't have died from thirst!

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    • Status of the decklid with filled luggage carrier holes:

      This is a cut & paste of the note I sent Asa following his first attempt at spraying primer. Lots of dryspray and lots of runs but we all have to start somewhere. I want him to know that everything can be fixed. Steps:

      1) Wet sand w/220 grit paper and the DA sander. Lots of water and it made sort of primer mud before I rinsed it off. The area where I wiped the runs turned out better than one might expect though I need to check the bottom of the deck lid edge to make sure there are no runs (just thought of that).

      2) Wet sand the small panel w/220 by hand as you really can't get the DA on that. Rinse.

      - The above steps require water changes from time to time given that I was using a small bucket rather that the hose. It was too chilly to do it outdoors. It's really easier with the hose running as slowly as possible.

      3) Wet sand everything with 400 grit by hand with a taco. This smooths any scratches from the 220 and allows me to feel the surface.

      4) Rinse and wipe off so it can dry overnight. The shop was warm so I shut the heater off and will let the temp "coast" which should allow it to dry properly.

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      I tried to get pics of the "before" but couldn't capture the situation.

      I'm thinking I'll pick him up a body panel (a hood or fender or something) from Pick n Pull and let him do your thing on it. That's in part how I got started and it won't matter if you mess it up - wipe it off with thinner and have at it again. This is a learnable skill! Unless you're Dave G

      Dan
      Last edited by DanStokes; November 6, 2021, 02:11 PM.

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      • And finally, the results.


        Here's the pic of the tape layout as shown in a previous thread in "Discussion", just to keep the build thread complete. I found the center and laid them out from that centerline.


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        Paint and clear coat plus a but of blocking and buffing.

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        From the side. Hope y'all can see the reflections.

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        Not much left to get him back on the road - FINALLY!

        Dan
        Last edited by DanStokes; November 23, 2021, 05:48 PM.

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        • YOUR SHOP IS SPOTLESS in every pix of this build !!!!
          You are BANNED From the "Shop Floor Bidding Wars" Messy Shop Parties !!! LOL

          You must have a small army that comes in, every week, unload your entire shop into the driveway, and Sanitize the Dam Place !!
          I don't even see a single spider Webb !!

          Stanger Looks GREAT !!

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          • "A man's got to know his limitations..." Clint Eastwood from which of his movies (note: this is a quiz).

            Have I ever mentioned how much I hate painting? No really, it's right down there with hemorrhoids an colonoscopies.

            That's why the Whatever project is going to be white. Just a little bit of effort and rattle cans. Can't tell the difference when it's going down the road at 70 mph.

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            • Originally posted by Captain View Post
              YOUR SHOP IS SPOTLESS in every pix of this build !!!!
              You are BANNED From the "Shop Floor Bidding Wars" Messy Shop Parties !!! LOL

              You must have a small army that comes in, every week, unload your entire shop into the driveway, and Sanitize the Dam Place !!
              I don't even see a single spider Webb !!

              Stanger Looks GREAT !!
              You're just not looking hard enough. LOTS of spots, dust, dirt - and spider webs. I do think of the backgrounds when I point the camera and try not to shoot too much crap in the background..

              Dave - call me and I'll come shoot the Whatever when it's ready. It'll bug me for the rest of my (not much left) life if you spray can it. White is fine and I have a quart more of the pretty blue that I striped Stanger with - I'll toss it in Truck along with my spray gun and the paper taping machine. Might as well make it look like something.

              Dan

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              • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

                You're just not looking hard enough. LOTS of spots, dust, dirt - and spider webs. I do think of the backgrounds when I point the camera and try not to shoot too much crap in the background..

                Dave - call me and I'll come shoot the Whatever when it's ready. It'll bug me for the rest of my (not much left) life if you spray can it. White is fine and I have a quart more of the pretty blue that I striped Stanger with - I'll toss it in Truck along with my spray gun and the paper taping machine. Might as well make it look like something.

                Dan
                Now that's an offer I cannot refuse! Will you bring ME as well? We'd both love to see both of you.

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                • Hey Dan, I picked up one of those 3M spray guns.
                  I tried it out on some cedar signs using some satin Polycrylic. It seems thin enough but I just couldn't get it to flow much material.
                  It seemed as though the vent was clogged, but there's not a vent. My guess is I need to try a tip bigger the 1.4 (I have 1.8 and 2.0 on order)
                  If I put pressure on the liner it acted more like I expected. What say you?
                  A.K.A. Brian
                  Jack of many trades-master of none

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                  • Mine is NOT the pressure feed unit though they do make them. With mine, the liner collapses as I use paint so that the air to refill the can comes from outside the can instead of inside it like a conventional gun. I sprayed the clear on the deck lid thru a 1.8 tip and it worked pretty well. My gun came in a kit with an assortment of tips so I'm still working out which tips to use with which material. It seems to like the 1.8 for both primer and clear and the 1.4 for base coat.

                    Where are your adjustments set? I'm using their "start" settings and so far so good though I may add more paint (the 4 1/2 turn out setting - think I'll try 5) just to see how that goes. I'm pretty happy with the pattern adjustment so far.

                    Dan

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                    • Brake Mysteries Solved:

                      Maximum Motorsports comes thru again. Turns out that the SVO rear calipers will never work properly with the stock 5.0 front calipers. To go all Teckie on you, the the 5.0 front calipers have 60mm pistons and the SVO rears are made to work with 73mm fronts - otherwise the balance is way off and adujusting the manual proportioning valve masks the problem but leaves way too little rear brake pressure so the rears hardly work at all. Their suggestion is that I buy SVO (same as some Lincolns) front calipers and the appropriate master cylinder. I asked them to include the bits to remove the stock prop valve (mine is gutted but just in case) so they sent along those numbers. So I have a few in-stock parts to wait for but I finally have the solution to make Stanger stop properly! LOVE Max Motorsports - they always have been the best!

                      SVO rear brake set-up:

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                      Stock 5.0 fronts:

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                      More pics to follow as I get parts.

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                      • Isn’t it nice to deal with someone that knows a thing or two about their product !

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                        • They have a guy there who, among other things, is their brake guy. I sent him pics and a description of what was going on and he knew exactly what was wrong and how to sort it out. Basically I'll have an SVO brake system w/ 1 1/8 master (way too big for typical Mustang brakes), 54mm (IIRC) rear calipers, and 73mm fronts along with a manual prop valve (which I had) and all the factory prop valve bits out of there. Pays to deal with pros!

                          BTW - their brake guy STRONGLY suggested I get front calipers w/SS pistons (am I the only one who calls the pistons "pucks"?). The phenolic pucks tend to hold water and then get stuck in the bores. Took a ton of looking but finally Cardone came thru for me. I ordered from Summit though Summit didn't know they were SS pistons so I called the Cardone tech line and verified that the "S" in the part number was because of the SS pistons. So lots of bits are on the way though I'll have to wait to order the pads as there are a couple of options depending on the style of the inside of the piston so that'll take one more order but it'll all be right when done.

                          Dan

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                          • Ah yes I remember Maggie's GT and the urine underwaged disc drum combination! Never did like you did, before sending it down the road. Still had the replacement clutch we were going to do on your lift back in 98, when we moved to the new house 4 years ago. It saw 3 of my houses. Gave it to a mechanic friend...

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                            • phenolic and/or ceramic pistons are TRASH, i refuse
                              to install any caliper with them. good call on your part.

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                              • Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
                                phenolic and/or ceramic pistons are TRASH, i refuse
                                to install any caliper with them. good call on your part.
                                Are you folks OK? We hear on the news that the islands are more or less under water - not a good thing. Sending best wishes your way.

                                Dan

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