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  • #31
    Originally posted by Dan Barlow View Post
    I'm glad to see this car being gotten back on the road . I couldn't believe people parked perfectly running cars !
    We didn't mean to but it just sort of ....... happened.

    Dan

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    • #32
      Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

      We didn't mean to but it just sort of ....... happened.

      Dan
      yeah yeah, we know, you'll fix it 'someday'
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • #33
        Actually, all it was missing to pass the state inspection was the E-brake cables (I think the Cobra ones will work with the TurboCoupe rear end that I'm running). It's a round-to-it that I never got - until now.

        Dan

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        • #34
          Well, that's the brakes!

          Still awaiting the fuel sender (NPD had to send it from the California warehouse) so in the meantime I had all the front brake bits so I decided to assemble it before I lost the parts. I'll back bleed the system but have to wait until it's running to do the final pump-the-pedal bleed if needed. I went full-boat and even did the flex lines. The hard lines looked fine so I didn't mess with them. The rotors were fairly new when I parked the car so I just had them turned - we'll see if O'Riley's knows how to turn a rotor but their lathe looked fairly idiot-proof.

          So far I've ignored the rears but the calipers may or may not be seized. Hoping for the best. If they move I'll need to work out the Ebrake cables.

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          Last edited by DanStokes; December 6, 2020, 09:07 AM.

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          • #35
            The fuel sender arrived yesterday so I installed it today and put the tank back in place. I've been cleaning and undercoating spots as I come to them so the area under the tank is now sealed (I hope). I was surprised that the tank fits the available hole as tightly as it does - it's a pretty fug snit.

            Here's pics of the tank back in place.

            Shot from the rear.

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            The new tank is a "good" aftermarket and while it fits OK the distance from the pinch weld to the outside of the tank it too narrow to reinstall the filler neck support as was the OEM so I made this little bracket and turned the support about 90 degrees so that the filler neck still has some support. There's a spot at the rear of the tank with a decent space outside the pinch wend so I was able to poke a hole there. Not sure how critical that support is but I can say I tried.

            In this pic you can see that I have more areas to clean and undercoat.

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            The front of the tank as well as I could get the camera up there. The main thing is the cleaned and painted filter support and the shiny new filter. You can also see the brass fitting I used to repair the fuel return line after I had to cut off the melted click connect fitting. Just Parker compression fittings (NOT hardware store) but they should be fine with low pressure fuel.

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            Dan

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            • #36
              WHOO-HOO!!! Big day today. After sitting for (as it turns out) 13 years Stanger made noise today. I poured in 5 gallons of fuel then purged the supply line - I got a few rust flakes and probably a pint of skunky gas. Then I hooked up the supply line and purged thru the fuel rails and out the return line. Again, a bit more skunky gas but not many rust chunks. I hooked everything up and hit the key and........ground over but no noise. Bummer. I checked for spark (OK) and I knew I had fuel up to the engine but still nothin'. After a head scratch I decided to see if it was a lack of fuel getting to the combustion chambers so I pulled the intake hose and shot in a couple of squirts of starting fluid. VROOM!!!! I reved it a bit and then it settled down to a semi-decent idle. Lots of rust out the pipes!

              He seems to have a cylinder MIA and I suspect a mucked up injector. Tomorrow I'll invest in a can of injector cleaner and run that thru. I know it's hope in a bottle but there's little to lose and lots to gain if it can free up the sticky one. Worst case is I'll pull them and get the freshened up or maybe replace them. I think 24PPH injectors are a lot cheaper than when I bought these ones.

              Proof of how long he's been sitting:

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              Not worried about anyone picking up this plate number - it's been dead for years.

              Dan
              Last edited by DanStokes; January 8, 2021, 08:51 AM.

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              • #37
                More proof that they're never done:

                I'm sure I didn't leave this like this upon the initial build but maybe a few years use and 13+ years of sitting got to it, but the front corner on the right muffler was in contact with the pricey aluminum driveshaft as shown:


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                I tried grinding the weld a bit (as shown above if you look closely) but to no avail. Then I applied the portapower and spread the two sides which helped a bit - spacing the crossover was a trick but I did get an extension in there. Finally I moved the rear muffler hangers over so that I shifted the whole system toward the passenger's side then clocked the mufflers a bit and NOW there's clearance as shown below.

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                A word to all you Mustang folks: The elegant solution would have been to clip the front corners off the mufflers and weld in a patch but I figured that dirty stainless would have been too hard to weld in place and I didn't want to pull the whole deal out and then reinstall it so I did what I did. If I was to replace the system at some point I'd clip those corners off the new mufflers and get the patch TIGged on.

                Dan

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                • #38
                  Good to see Stang getting back up and running. Man for an old guy you have more energy than me. But that's the difference between a technician and an engineer. We're all talk, you guys are/were all work.

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                  • #39
                    People often ask if I was an engineer after I bore them to death with car talk. My standard response is "No, I opted for competence." And every time I say it I say to myself "Except for Dave" and that's the truth. We MUST get together soon! Thinking of Loring next spring.

                    Dan

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                    • #40
                      That's where again??? Maine! It could work... Maybe I'll have something fun to drive by then.

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                      • #41
                        Let me tell you, that's as far above Kennebunkport as it is from here to Kennebunkport. My brother, his wife, hie sister-in-law, and her husband own a big house in Kennebunkport and I've been there twice over the past 22 years. It's a long drive, so I can only imagine how long it takes to get there from NC hauling a race truck.

                        I bet my nephew would be up for it. Let's see if we can plan to get together for it. Have to start planning after the first of the year.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
                          I can only imagine how long it takes to get there from NC hauling a race truck.
                          I can tell you that, because I've done it. Raleigh to Loring towing race car = 24-hours (including dodging Moose).



                          Here's our "Firecracker" at the line in Loring, LTA's first event in 2010.

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                          • #43
                            Dave Matty, Luke and I were pitted next to the Hot Rod Special with Frieburger, Turk, Tonya and Brian Lohnes.

                            David, Dave & Keith.

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                            • #44
                              I'm figuring 3 days tow, maybe 4. It's 2 days to Blytheville and I usually arrive in time to tech in on Thursday so I'll allow enough time to take it easy and bypass DC and NYC - don't want to tow thru THAT traffic - and still tech in early.

                              Dan

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                              • #45
                                Back to Stanger progress:

                                I'm working on repainting the driver's door after a run-in with a sticky race number (pulled the paint off) but one of the things I needed to accomplish was to replace the tires as they were hopelessly out of date. As I chewed on it I also decided to go with 17" rims giving a broader choice of tires. LMR had a pretty good deal on a tire and rim package with 17X9s for the front and 17X10's for the rear and appropriately sized Sumitomo tires as shown.

                                Size comparison of the front to rear tires. The diameter is virtually the same but the rears are considerably wider.

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                                And the size stickers:


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                                Here's the pretty face:


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                                With the old tires/wheels:


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                                And the new rear in place. Turns out that I need the long ARP studs to bolt these on and while I'd changed the rears I hadn't done the fronts so the front studs only went about half way thru the nuts - not good. I couldn't find any long studs locally so I have a set coming from Summit and they should arrive by the end of the week. Interesting that ARP only lists these as fitting 94 and up. The difference? There are 5 studs/package but all the dimensions are the same. I'll just keep 2 in reserve. The car's stiing a bit funny as it's still on the hoist and the RF is sitting on a block so I could lower the car more or less to the floor to take the pic.


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                                Last edited by DanStokes; August 9, 2021, 07:24 PM.

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