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  • #91
    Some gress on Stanger (Dave knows - PROgress is to move forward and REgress is to go backwards. In the Gov't we have "gress" - just general movement which results in no measurable work output.)

    Asa and I filled the holes in the deck lid with epoxy (an experiment as the epoxy won't warp the flat panel). Fox Mustang convertibles came with a sort of luggage rack on the deck lid given the tiny trunk but I've never used it and I don't like the rubber strips though I'll keep the outside ones and the ducktail spoiler w/high brake light which I do like. So we flattened everything out and spot primed the filled areas and yesterday I attempted to seal the area with thinned DP 50 epoxy primer - I've had great luck with that in the past. But my d@^&d mid-priced HF spray gun can leaked and left spots all over the panel. I was NOT happy. The deal is that I was unable to get the lid back on the can properly as either the plastic can was no longer round or the plastic lid was no longer round. I thought I had it adequately together but I was wrong.

    Having had enough, I ordered up a 3M Accuspray system from an online source. They're pretty well reviewed and are really well suited for those of us who spray small quantities of whatever it is we're spraying. You never clean the can, you just toss the liners which are sort of heavy-duty baggies. The whole deal seems to be cleverly engineered but I'll get back with a report once it's in hand, probably later next week.

    No pics - I was too annoyed to bother. Suffice it to say my deck lid has a series of blotted spots that will need sanded down and if you've ever sanded DP primer you know it's no picnic.

    Dan

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    • #92
      Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
      Some gress on Stanger (Dave knows - PROgress is to move forward and REgress is to go backwards. In the Gov't we have "gress" - just general movement which results in no measurable work output.)

      Asa and I filled the holes in the deck lid with epoxy (an experiment as the epoxy won't warp the flat panel). Fox Mustang convertibles came with a sort of luggage rack on the deck lid given the tiny trunk but I've never used it and I don't like the rubber strips though I'll keep the outside ones and the ducktail spoiler w/high brake light which I do like. So we flattened everything out and spot primed the filled areas and yesterday I attempted to seal the area with thinned DP 50 epoxy primer - I've had great luck with that in the past. But my d@^&d mid-priced HF spray gun can leaked and left spots all over the panel. I was NOT happy. The deal is that I was unable to get the lid back on the can properly as either the plastic can was no longer round or the plastic lid was no longer round. I thought I had it adequately together but I was wrong.

      Having had enough, I ordered up a 3M Accuspray system from an online source. They're pretty well reviewed and are really well suited for those of us who spray small quantities of whatever it is we're spraying. You never clean the can, you just toss the liners which are sort of heavy-duty baggies. The whole deal seems to be cleverly engineered but I'll get back with a report once it's in hand, probably later next week.

      No pics - I was too annoyed to bother. Suffice it to say my deck lid has a series of blotted spots that will need sanded down and if you've ever sanded DP primer you know it's no picnic.

      Dan
      Just pull out the belt sander! Bare metal in seconds. So whom says that I'm not a body man...

      Comment


      • #93
        Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
        Some gress on Stanger (Dave knows - PROgress is to move forward and REgress is to go backwards. In the Gov't we have "gress" - just general movement which results in no measurable work output.)


        Dan
        "Never Mistake ACTIVITY for PROGRESS"

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        • #94
          Originally posted by Captain View Post

          "Never Mistake ACTIVITY for PROGRESS"
          Yeah, gress.

          Dan

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          • #95
            Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post

            Just pull out the belt sander! Bare metal in seconds. So whom says that I'm not a body man...
            can I just use the 40 grit that's on my sander or should I go with 60?
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

              can I just use the 40 grit that's on my sander or should I go with 60?
              Well I would. Dan, probably not...

              Comment


              • #97
                Nothing courser than 80. Remember, you'll have to fill all those scratches with paint down the line and unless you can get the bristles of the paint brush to line up with the scratches (really hard to do) you'll have your hands full.

                (Dave, you may not know this but Aaron paints his own stuff including the black 'Vette.)

                Dan
                Last edited by DanStokes; October 17, 2021, 05:34 PM.

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                • #98
                  Tales of the new spray gun:

                  So my 3M Accuspray system arrived 'tother day and today I had a chance to put it to use.

                  1) I washed off the crappy DP50 (PPG epoxy primer) sealer coat that I splattered on there with my HF gun.

                  2) I unpacked the 3M gun and familiarized myself with it. It comes packed on a sheet of cardboard so it takes up a lot of unnecessary space.

                  3) This is how it fits together:

                  There's a disposable liner that the paint actually touches, then that lid thingy shown here attached to the orange part of the gun. The lid is disposable along with the liner. The orange part is the orifice and wing assembly which is also disposable though if you run a bit of thinner thru it you can reuse them. The orange one is a 1.4 and the gun comes with several options between 1.2 and 2.0. The orange bit cleans with maybe 3 tablespoons of thinner - dead easy.


                  Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0825.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	944.9 KB ID:	1308398



                  4) Here's how you put the "can" (or whatever you want to call it) on the gun body. So the can goes on the bench and the gun screws on the can with an 1/8th turn - easy-peasy. BTW - I bought this smaller can assembly but the gun comes with one about a liter or so. Options.

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                  5) And assembled and ready to spray. I found a way to screw up with this system and I'll mention it so nobody follows in my footsteps. The smaller can came with a liner in it so I mixed up the sealer and couldn't get the lid on. After using the less-used corners of my vocabulary I found out that they had shipped it with 2 - count 'em - TWO liners in the outer cup. The lid will NOT tighten with 2 liners in there. So if anyone gets one of these watch for that.

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                  6) And the sealer on the deck lid. I can't tell you how nicely this thing sprays and how much more even the sealer went down vs the HF mid-priced gun. There are some filled spots that will need some filler primer (you can see the shadows) which I hope to spray tomorrow.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0826.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	829.2 KB ID:	1308401

                  All in all, this thing's a keeper. The composite handle and the plastic bits had me wondering if this was a "homeowner's special" kind of thing but it's the real deal. The spray pattern is super even and predictable and this is the fastest I've ever cleaned a spray gun. It takes the work out of it - but watch for double liners!

                  Dan
                  Last edited by DanStokes; October 26, 2021, 03:55 PM.

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                  • #99
                    So in other words you'd recommend it to people like me who are painting challenged. I'm going to pass, but that's just me... I'll wait till I can trailer the Whatever project down south and persuade someone who just bought one to shoot the paint for me. It's easier and for me, probably cheaper, even counting drive costs...

                    Comment


                    • Painting.....I Ain't Skaret' !!!
                      It just even with a Hydronic Heated Shop, (No Forced Air Fan), Airborne Dust and Barn Cat Hairs, is my Enemy!!

                      Comment


                      • I should have had the tubing put in my garage floor when we had the new house built 4 years ago. I didn't!
                        So instead I have a 5000 watt electric heater out there. And yes the dust flies!

                        But I only have to turn it on 1/2 hour before I intend to work in the garage. And if I leave it on too long I can always open the back door to cool off.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Captain View Post
                          Painting.....I Ain't Skaret' !!!
                          It just even with a Hydronic Heated Shop, (No Forced Air Fan), Airborne Dust and Barn Cat Hairs, is my Enemy!!
                          I wish I had that in my shop. I have a big hanging heater which definitely does the job even with minimal insulation (some day I'll hire that done). I didn't think I'd need heat here but I was wrong. I heat up the shop and switch the heater off just before I spray and that has worked pretty well. Once the paint is basically set I kick the heat back on to "stun" and bake the paint overnight.

                          Dan

                          Comment


                          • A hydronic heated floor has Spoiled Me !!
                            1) initial investment and labor to install which I did myself (with help from my Drunky Rusty Iron Junkie Friends on concrete day) was not that bad.
                            2) Learning to operate it was a bid of a trial
                            And error phase, as I have 6 separate lines
                            in the floor, with regulation valves.
                            Once you have it working, YOUR First train
                            of thought you have to learn......
                            It's design is NOT To Heat Air !! It is RADIANT HEAT, it heats objects, which THEN heats up the shop.
                            Example 1, You enter the shop, the Fram Oil thermometer on the wall says it's 55°.
                            You keep your jacket on, it doesn't feel like 55°!, after walking around, getting things set up, turn on the air compressor, etc.
                            You are feeling Warm, take the jacket off, and before you know it, you are very comfortable in a work shirt!
                            Example 2, You pull in your vehicle. In doing so, you have just opened a 80 square foot hole in your shop, and parked a 10° above Zero 2 ton pile of Iron inside, and close this 80 square foot hole letting in lots of 10° above cold air!
                            Surprisingly, in a few minutes, you here water dripping on the floor, and a few minutes later, (I installed floor rains for this) the shop feels back to normal.
                            Two things are happening here, Radiant Heat, and that giant concrete slab, once heated to 55°, holds it's heat. (Lost power for 2+ days, shop cooled down to 43°)

                            So the short easy lesson,
                            Your convertible car is parked outside,
                            Air Temp is 72°.... And you Fry your ass on the Vinyl Seats !! ....radiant heat is trapped in the seats! Same as yourself, walking on the shop floor.

                            Comment


                            • OH,
                              Cost to Operate.....
                              Heating 1280 square feet, with 10 ft ceiling,
                              uses 20% or so more propane than my 3 bedroom, two bath house.

                              Comment


                              • It's 1961, and my father decided the kitchen needed an overhaul. The room was slightly L-shape and front to back was about 35 feet. The narrow end was 22-23 feet, and the wide end was 5 feet wider, evenly split 50-50. His buddy the architect designed it to have hydronic heat. The floor slab was 18 inches thick concrete! On a stone masonry foundation about 3 feet wide. Hey my grandfather was an old world carpenter and the mason was old world as well.

                                There was a huge amount of 1/2 (I think, I was 7) copper pipes buried in the slab. In the fall when mom started heating up the kitchen, the floor would be about 80 degrees F. Oil was cheap then. I bet the circulator for the kitchen only ran about 1 time a week during the winter. And when the power went out it only cooled down to maybe mid 70's after a week of no power. Mom never liked to be cold, and people didn't quite get that the concept worked like Captain said.

                                But let me tell you, it was soooooo nice sitting on the floor after being out playing in the snow all day as a kid. And the dogs same thing

                                BTW, copper in concrete tied to the rebar, not the best idea!

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