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The "Whatever" Project

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Them's purdy!

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  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Those king pins aren't right. They're the same size for their whole length. Better place an order to England!
    Only the British complicate something that has no need to be complicated. Consider WW1. The Germans are noted for their technology. They made the machine guns on airplanes synchronise their firing with the engine so that the bullets shot thru the propellers without hitting them. This allowed the guns to be in the line of site of the pilots, enhancing their ability to aim.

    We, the US, and being in a hurry, stole the design for our aircraft. The British mounted the guns above the path of the propellers, and designed a complicated siting system to compensate for the guns being above the pilots line of site.

    The French, being pragmatic, armor plated the propellers, allowing them to shoot thru the path with impunity. Most of the time the bullets made it thru. Some were deflected off at angles. And very infrequently, they came straight back at the pilots, with obvious results. But hey, it was quick, cheap, and mostly worked.

    Anyway, back to kingpins. The next step is to figure out if the F100 bushings fit in the F1 spindles. Or conversely, if the F1 bushings can be reamed and honed to fit the F100 kingpins. And there's headers to work on. I was looking at the box of tube bends from Speedway. And the old gray cells got to thinking about tri-Y headers again. But then there's a picture I came across with a really nice looking setup.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1346221 Look at that exhaust system! That's a work of art! I'm thinking that a 3 inch diameter 90 degree bend, and the tubes I have, and I could make something similar.

    Hey, the 1st set will work for now, just a bit of finish welding to do. But that one above, that's classic!

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Those king pins aren't right. They're the same size for their whole length. Better place an order to England!

    Leave a comment:


  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Of course that's not the only thing I did today. I started on messing with the V8-60 tube axle today.
    Click image for larger version

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    1st off is getting the kingpin bores round and oversized. That's a 6 blade adjustable hand reamer to enlarge the bores to fit F100 kingpins. I was a little concerned about the possibility of not getting the bores straight. This reamer is long enough to get all of the way through the boss so that it will ream straight. One problem licked. And the final step will be to finish hone the bores for a hand press fit. But first I have to dig out the bushing grinder. And that's going to be a little bit of effort. The garage is currently in the worst shape it's been in for quite a while. Oh well what can I say...

    2nd is working on the spindles to get the bushings to work. I'mgoing to ruin a set of bushings one way or another, so I either push a set out of the F1 spindles and see if they are the same od as the F100 bushings, or ream and hone to size the current set of bushings, hoping that there's enough brass portion remaining after that.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1346210 Here's an interesting pair of pictures. These are the bearing adapters to fit mid 70s midsize GM disc brake rotors fit. In the right picture, the left adapter fits any 1937 to 1948 Ford passenger car front spindle. The right adapter is for F1 and F100 truck spindles, 1948 to 1956 or 1957. The left hand picture has them stacked with the truck adapter on top of the passenger adapter. Look closely and you can see the diameter differences between them.

    And one more thing, the F1 spindles otherwise can be interchanged with the passenger car spindles, getting a bigger spindle pin. Even the kingpin inclination matches and the size. The F100 however have a different kingpin inclination and larger diameter kingpins, 0.860 vs 0.815. Numbers are approximately correct, I'm working off my memory here, so don't quote me on the exact dimensions.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Those are perfect! Unless you were going to make it a "Corvette motor"!

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  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Hey Loren! Look at the 283 with your valve covers on it! A definite step up from the fugly chromed aftermarket valve covers on it previously. And I'm not going to hammer out the wrinkles and lumps. It goes with the engine.
    Click image for larger version

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    I took a big Sharpie to the letters. Perfection! Now it looks vintage. Thanks again for the covers...

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  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Originally posted by Russell View Post
    For years I could not find the NHRA rule book, I always assumed they only sold hard copies. Drag Week is the closest thing I have ever come to
    NHRA tech. Back then I had a 13 second car with the majority of the 10.00 equipment. The main thing they check slower than 10.00 is it has a roll bar, belts and helmet. Someone posted it maybe Beagle? I have a PDF copy on my phone I will email it to Dan.
    Thanks. That'll be a big help. Thinking about building a multipurpose vehicle, of course, is probably foolish. And you all may remember the Beatles song "Fool on the hill". It's not the world spinning around, it's the visions in my head! BTW it's been said before that I have a few screws loose. But I have always been a little eccentric. Remember from the front of this thread that I decided to build a modified dirt car at 19, and I had never built a complete car before. That's the Italian heritage coming thru. Never tell me I can't do something, it'll just make me more determined to do it.

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  • Russell
    replied
    For years I could not find the NHRA rule book, I always assumed they only sold hard copies. Drag Week is the closest thing I have ever come to
    NHRA tech. Back then I had a 13 second car with the majority of the 10.00 equipment. The main thing they check slower than 10.00 is it has a roll bar, belts and helmet. Someone posted it maybe Beagle? I have a PDF copy on my phone I will email it to Dan.

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post

    No, but it can happen. When I get it back in the garage. Right now it's back to the Whatever project. There's a lathe calli g, and it is needed to make a few widgets, thingamajigs, whambosies, and a whole lot of other odds and ends to finish a number of loose ends. Then there's a set of headers to be finished. Loren's valve covers to get on the 283, and ditch those fugly chromed aftermarket valve covers. And on and on until I get to the bottom of the to do list, which is growing daily.
    To do lists do that.

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  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Originally posted by Monster View Post
    Do you already have a build thread for the mini, I can't remember. Sounds like you may as well start one. An E/STR LSR build would be interesting.
    No, but it can happen. When I get it back in the garage. Right now it's back to the Whatever project. There's a lathe calli g, and it is needed to make a few widgets, thingamajigs, whambosies, and a whole lot of other odds and ends to finish a number of loose ends. Then there's a set of headers to be finished. Loren's valve covers to get on the 283, and ditch those fugly chromed aftermarket valve covers. And on and on until I get to the bottom of the to do list, which is growing daily.

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  • Monster
    replied
    Do you already have a build thread for the mini, I can't remember. Sounds like you may as well start one. An E/STR LSR build would be interesting.

    Leave a comment:


  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    So bottom line is that I have a bit of 'splainin' to do Lucy! The new and improved rollcage construction is really a space frame with the Mini body wrapped around it. We could take the body off (well, cut it off) and the remaining structure would be perfectly safe from a load carrying perspective. Well, we'd need to leave a little bit of the floor to keep our feet from pulling a Fred Flintstone. And I doubt if you would like to drive it without a firewall. So I will take a LOT of pictures to help document the structure. And seeing as how you have connections, when the time comes to get some opinions on the structure, we could send said pictures to someone who can make some informed comments on the viability of the design, before I go too far.

    I think we have a plan, if you agree. But now I have to make an effort to get going on the Whatever project again, as my back is feeling better. Not great, just better. And that's good...

    Tomorrow is Loren's valve covers. Yeah, not much, but something. And the passenger side header needs to be cut, reangled, and tacked back up. And the glue lam for the Atlas bench lathe stand is just about dry. I can lay out the cutting and get it screwed to the frame. That's a basement job, as that's where the table saw and some of the wood butchering tools are.

    My grandfather was a carpenter, and he spins in the grave whenever I get near wood...

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post

    Is that the whole structure or just the main cage? I'm still ruminating over the design and cost...
    Read the book!

    I was on the phone when I sent that last response. What I was getting at is that those details are in the book. As I read the rules all members of the cage are to be of the same spec material. As I reread it just now, vehicles in J, H, I, K, and J can use 1 1/2" 0.095 wall tubing so there ya go. Bigger and/or thicker tube is always OK so if you go with 1 5/8" you're more than all right. The cage shown in the illustration shows floor bracing which is not required if the vehicle has stock-type steel floors. Thin steel (like, 24 GA or such) or aluminum floor panels will bring about scrutiny and requirements for the floor bracing. I have no clue about such details in NHRA, SCCA, or other sanctioning bodies.
    Last edited by DanStokes; December 3, 2023, 03:43 PM.

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  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

    Remember, LSR wants 0.120 wall. Though I doubt anybody is going to check.
    Is that the whole structure or just the main cage? I'm still ruminating over the design and cost...

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
    I stay somewhere between those. I used dom, which starts life as welded tube, but then it's, wait for it..........


    Drawn over mandrel (dom, get it?), to size it and smooth the weld seam. It also work hardens during the process, raising the strength of the tubing with minimal loss of ductility. And doesn't need heat treatment to normalize like 4130, to prevent it from being brittle.

    So I can use 1.5x0.095, meaning use what I got! Wahoo, don't have to buy a $400 bender die!
    Remember, LSR wants 0.120 wall. Though I doubt anybody is going to check.
    Last edited by DanStokes; December 2, 2023, 07:36 PM.

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