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The "Whatever" Project

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  • After a couple of days of migraine, today was a good day in the garage. Where to start?
    Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCN1589.jpg Views:	0 Size:	222.7 KB ID:	1326213 Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCN1588.jpg Views:	0 Size:	215.6 KB ID:	1326214 Radiator mockup! Who would have ever thought that I would use woodworking tools to make the radiator mockup? Shaving that pink foam is really easy with a Fein oscillating tool with a couple of their unique blades. Then get out the Shurforms and rasp it until it fit the nose just right. And finally get out the 80 grit and smooth it out.

    Then roll some cereal box cardboard to simulate the hose connections, bore holes with the correct sizes of hole saws, and viola, we gots us a mockup! Now to get someone to make it. I rue the day when that bill comes due...

    So as I was sitting there staring at the nose, I had a brainstorm! I was still trying to figure out the shape of the opening in the nose. It occurred to me that I could use large welding rod that I have to make the outline of the opening. Bent one side, got it the way I wanted it, and then copied it to the other side. Welded the 2 together and Shazam! I have a shape for the grill and opening.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCN1591.jpg Views:	0 Size:	168.7 KB ID:	1326215 Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCN1590.jpg Views:	0 Size:	183.8 KB ID:	1326216 Not bad, IMHO! Hopefully it's big enough to get air flow sufficient to cool a 400 hp engine. Go back to the previous pictures and picture in your mind's eye a fan that clears that crossmember behind the radiator and a shroud fromthe radiator to the fan, sealed up as best I can, so that all of the flow through the radiator drawn by the fan comes through the opening. Well I can dream can't I?

    Next was to put the larger of the two transmissions back in for space considerations. Then start on the crossmembers and floor supports. I have a decent handle on the overall layout and have started cutting steel. I need to get a transmission cushion for both transmissions (hopefully the bolt spacing is the same or at least close), and fabricate the part under the transmission first. A few diagonal braces and some floor supports, 2 1-inch tube u-bends over the driveshaft, and start making the sheetmetal...
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    Last edited by dave.g.in.gansevoort; September 15, 2022, 03:08 PM.

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    • Okay so I'm confused! Hit the wrong picture size, tried to change it, and everything locked up! Tried to edit, still couldn't get the text back. So saved as it was, and now I'll finish today's diatribe.

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ID:	1326220 Here's a look at the transmission and the crossmembers starting to go together. I know, BFD! You get what you pay for...

      Finally, pulled the left rear tire off, as I need to drill a pair of holes for the rear of the left side locating link halfway between the 2 existing holes.
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ID:	1326221 Here's the bracket pair and you can see the 2 existing holes. The reason why is to make the arc of the left side radius rod match the right side with the wishbone. Leaving it like it is will cause the rear axle to steer the car differently turning left or right. No big deal, I knew that it had to be done when I relocated the front pivot points to below frame rails. Just getting a round tuit!

      So going through all of the needed materials, I think that I have enough for the crossmembers and floor supports. And I even have some aluminum tread plate for the floor!

      Hopefully tomorrow will be as good

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      • Glad you're feeling better.

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        • Look at the last picture in the jet airplane post (c'mon you know the song, "leaving on a jet plane..." 707???). Again I say, you get what you pay for in humor.

          Anyway, drilled the holesneeded halfway between the existing holes today. Reassembled and now the rear geometry is up to snuff! And it looks right also.

          The only other news, I bought a new shop press from Harbor Fright today. Got an email coupon, they missed me, here's 25% off one item, no exclusions. Assembled it and tucked it into a corner. Now if I can remember what I bought a set of keyway broaches for, I'll finish that project up. Whatever it was, it was 5 or 6 years ago. I might have made something else so now I may not have to broach any keyways for a while. But when I do, I'm ready...

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          • Son of Whatever is beyond just a glimmer in my eye! Parts are agglomerating in the garage. Tuesday is new to me quick change! So here's a brief list:
            Schroeder steering box
            Hilborn injection including the new tach/pump/magneto drive
            Front suspension components including 48 Ford F1 pickup truck spindles
            CAE in/out box
            Kirkey vintage seat
            100 feet of 1.5-0.095 dom tubing
            after Tuesday, a quick change rear, midget/sprint car type
            And lots of other neat old stuff!

            Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

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            • Some pictures and a few words. NO REALLY, I CAN BE BRIEF!

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ID:	1326399 Here's the Hilborn mag/fuel pump/tach drive disassembled. You MOPAR guys probably recognize the bottom of the magneto. Part of Sonny!

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ID:	1326401 Worked on x-members today on the Whatever project. I'm planning on the bottom of the x-member under the transmission to be removable. In case I have to drop the transmission from the bottom for service. It'll come out from the top, but who knows if I'd want to once assembled. Better safe than sorry.

              The rear x-member has a u-shaped tube, part of the future upper blast shield, just in case the driveshaft ever does a dynamic disassembly! I'll be making a 360 degree hoop for the front of the driveshaft, which will be removable, again to get the transmission in or out. It will bolt in both top and bottom, either in one piece, or separate if only one half needs to come out to service anything.

              So, moving on...

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                Sonny is growing! I drove over to Vermont today and picked up this midget quick change rear. The parts are going to define what Sonny becomes. But now, back to the garage and the whatever project !

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                • I have always wanted a quick change. I believe they are not the best for drag racing. So I really don't know what I would put it in theses days.
                  http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                  1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                  PB 60' 1.49
                  ​​​​​​

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                  • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                    I have always wanted a quick change. I believe they are not the best for drag racing. So I really don't know what I would put it in theses days.
                    There's probably good, better, best rear assemblies for any application. I grew up around dirt track racing, and the qc was considered to be the best due to ease of matching gearing for the track/condition that had to be adapted to. In one class way back when, a qc was not allowed, so the go to rear was a Ford 3/4 ton truck rear. 6.13 gearing or 5.80ish something ratios for our home track. Then change tires diameter to try to match conditions. My 1st car had a 57 Chevy rear, and it ran in 2nd gear to get the revs up. The Ford 9 inch was used in some cars, notably the Picture help cars driven by Gerry Chamberlain out of Pennsylvania.
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ID:	1326469 This car was unique, not just because of the 9-inch rear. That's independent front suspension, on dirt! You can see Buick drums, what's hard to see in the picture is what the spindles are. 60's Ford Falcon! Why not? The car was owned by a salvage yard. And the engines were big block Fords. I remember seeing both FE and 429/460 engines.

                    You drag racers have used many rears also. Olds/Pontiac in the early 60s, Chrysler 8 3/4, GM 12 bolt, Ford 9-inch, and so many other rears. Some were better than others.

                    If I were to design a new rear axle, I would have a main design criteria of minimal energy loss when picking the gear design, followed by ease of maintenance and gear changes. Then independent suspension or beam axle. Would it have plug in axles or floating hubs. And you can see I like the look of an open tube quick change rear.

                    Man, I can get sidetracked so easily! It's like the time with the barmaid, the Turkish towel, and the can of whipped cream... But I'm much better now!

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                    • Nice vintage picture.
                      Not much for a "Booger Bar Bumper" up front !!
                      ​​​​​and is that the "Mud Screen" for the Windshield or the radiator laying on the front suspension.
                      also liked the inverted torsion bar on top for more Ground Clearance to lower the car.

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                      • Originally posted by Captain View Post
                        Nice vintage picture.
                        Not much for a "Booger Bar Bumper" up front !!
                        ​​​​​and is that the "Mud Screen" for the Windshield or the radiator laying on the front suspension.
                        also liked the inverted torsion bar on top for more Ground Clearance to lower the car.
                        This picture is from Lebanon Valley and it's end of the season race the Valley 200. It was late October 1974, and by this time of the season everyone's cars were beat, bruised and bent. This car actually looked pretty good for probably it's 2nd or 3rd from last race of the season. I'd have to guess at this point that the mud screen was for the driver not the radiator, as it looks too big for up front.

                        As mentioned above, this car had Falcon front spindles, for a valid reason. The suspension loads were thru the upper ball joints, as they were in compression. Just like the early Mustangs, which were reskinned Falcons for all practical purposes. If you could see the upper a-arms clearly (my bad. Old pictures by idiot photographer, me), you'd see a bell crank attached to it and a really near installation of a coil spring horizontally with a threaded rod thru it for load jacking. Springs were just junkyard parts picked by some semblance of theory for spring rate. So the sway bar was up high to clear crap in the nose, and to get it's load effects into the upper ball joints.

                        And aerodynamics weren't a consideration on short tracks in those days.

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                        • I am just glad I have a car to take to the track. I am trying really hard to keep it turn key and not let better get in the way of running.

                          It seemed like the 9" ford is the way to go for drag cars. It currently has an 8.8 with some good parts so it's good enough for now.
                          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                          PB 60' 1.49
                          ​​​​​​

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                          • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                            I am just glad I have a car to take to the track. I am trying really hard to keep it turn key and not let better get in the way of running.

                            It seemed like the 9" ford is the way to go for drag cars. It currently has an 8.8 with some good parts so it's good enough for now.
                            I learned years ago that better is the enemy of good enough. I have to keep telling myself that. I designed an open tube rear axle decades ago. I based it on Ford 9-inch gears. I wanted a non-quickchange rear axle for short track racing and wanted proven gears that were readily available in a wide range of ratios. Never built it. Maybe I should consider it again...

                            Nah, I'm never going to get involved in that kind of racing again.

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                            • Okay so we picked up the new dd today. It has so many geegaas, and whamdoodles that the Whatever project is NEVER going to have. Speaking of the Whatever project, the next task is to dig out a section of 1 inch tube for the driveshaft/tunnel hoop. And get a section of 1/4×2 steel for the safety hoop at the front of the driveshaft. I've measured and sketched out the structure for all of that and the floor support. That's this week's game plan.

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                              • Just a couple of pictures of the rear suspension, after installing the new lowered chassis mounts and the left side redrilled axle bracket to make the arcs of the left and right sides match. Look closely and you can see the garage is clean also...
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