The "Whatever" Project

[DanStokes]

Progress......

Dan

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Progress......

Dan

Yup!

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Here's a picture of the transmission Took a little bit of heat and force to get the bellhousing off. It appears that it's never been apart since new. It even still had the id tag Not much use, things rust up here in the northeast. So it took a little bit of detective work to figure out what the transmission is. 1 inch 14 spline input shaft, electronic speedometer sender, 4.1:1 first gear, and most importantly the front countershaft bearing is a Timken LM67010-BCE tapered roller bearing. Woo hoo World Class!

They say that this is a good thing. I'll go with that. So what if it's a granny first gear. With the qc, I can get gearing to have a decent launch, and think about the top end!

And as mentioned earlier, I put in a set of unmolested Mini pedals. It looks like a match made in heaven. In the next couple of days I'll mount the big ass heim and the steering is one step closer to working.

[Russell]

If I had to guess the t5 is out of a S10. With the shifter forward. The tag should tell you what it came out of.

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

If I had to guess the t5 is out of a S10. With the shifter forward. The tag should tell you what it came out of.

Yes it's from an S10, what is tbd is what year. Take a look at the picture of the tag. It's rusted so bad it's unreadable. I went thru a post on the hamb site that is supposed to be the end all of T5 information, but the things that I saw with this one vs. the information posted don't quite match up.

It's definitely from an S10. My brother in law's son who gave it to me took it out himself. It is from a 4 cylinder S10. It had it's original bellhousing still on it. An aside, it was a mother getting the bolts loose. It has a 1 inch 14 spline input shaft, so that matches either 4 or 6 cylinder S10 T5s, but again the bellhousing was 4 cylinder. It has 4.10:1 first gear, still matches 4 banger. It has electronic speedometer sender so appears to be 90 or slightly newer. It has the WC roller bearing on the counter shaft. And it matches the old GM bellhousing bolt pattern. So it mostly matches what is said in other sources. But not quite.

But I'm not complaining, it was free, it's WC, and it will bolt up to the bellhousing I'm using. I'm not sure yet if there's a diameter issue with the input shaft retainer. If there is, I can turn it down or machine a spacer. I'm going to use one of those hydraulic throwout bearings, so again I can make it fit.

I appreciate the comments. If you have any other information that will identify it's exact year, please send it my way. If I have to get inside it, that will help with getting the right parts if necessary. Thanks

[Captain]

Keep the Granny Gear.......
its Helpful to get out of the Run off Sand Pits........

just saying.....

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Keep the Granny Gear.......
its Helpful to get out of the Run off Sand Pits........

just saying.....

I wonder if it works for pea gravel outside turns on road courses. Unless you're upside down in one of course...

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

It appears that the transmission is from a 93 S10. The tag didn't clean up enough to be able to read the numbers. Oh well I can live with that. If it turns out that I want closer gearing I'll get a Camaro v8 T5 and swap the guts.

So today I tacked the seat mount together and added some cross bracing. Then drilled 2 more holes for flange nuts to weld in, and got all of the flange nuts welded in.

Also made 2 new frame members drilled for the bosses that the rear suspension attaches to. I'm going to lower the front attachment points to make a slight change in the geometry of the rear suspension. Tomorrow I'll knock the old uprights out and tack these in. I've got to make a new right side torque arm/trailing link, replacing the former wishbone. These 2 changes will get me all the clearance needed to the bottom of the body and favorably alter the rear suspension geometry to improve anti-dive/anti-hop. That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

Cut a little bit of the floor and firewall away to clear the pedals and the lower end of the steering column. I dug out a threaded bung from the short stock bin, previously threaded 3/4-16 for an experiment, that will go thru a pair of holes in the frame rails to thread the large heim on tthe lower end of the steering column into. By then I was running on empty, so called it a day.

And last I have started to figure out how to make the inner structure to support the upper end of the steering column and attach a little rollover protection to. Not a full cage just a braced hoop in the back of the body.

Now if I can move tomorrow

[Russell]

Ford T5s have what I believe is castings dates, in the case. I took a picture but it's too big and I am too lazy to resize it. It a circle with a number in the middle and some dots that I assume is the month.

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Thanks Russell. If you do get in the mood to resize it and post, I'd appreciate it. I did something simple today as well. I put a Chevy T10 nose to nose with the T5, to check out what the differences are in lengths of input shaft and pilot bearing nose. Also the throwout bearing collar. Found out that the pilot bearing nose is longer. And the throwout bearing collar also is longer and covers more of the input shaft. This leaves less of the input splines exposed. From reading threads on T5 transmissions, I saw that some people lengthen the splines and shorten the throwout bearing collar, and shorten the pilot bearing nose. Others seem to make it work with no modifications. I'm going to trial assemble things and see what needs fixing.

Clutch discs are available with the 1 inch 14 spline, so no problem there. And in the diameter that is needed. I'll be using a 153 toot flywheel to clear the bellhousing. So I'm making progress on that front as well.

Oh and my arms itch! I worked inside the body today in a tee shirt not thinking about glass fibers. I'm going to take a cold shower and try to get most of it off

[Beagle]

That tag should be aluminum? Was on the Fords anyway. Toss it in a glass of vinegar for a few days. It may just be road gunge all over it.

[Russell]

Did I read on the internet that baby powder helps with fiberglass? Maybe SBG will tell us how to stop the itching. I assume this is a 1987 transmission?

[DanStokes]

There has to be an online decoder for Russell's pic. I don't know the code myself.

Dan

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

That tag should be aluminum? Was on the Fords anyway. Toss it in a glass of vinegar for a few days. It may just be road gunge all over it.

No, that would be too easy. I soaked it for a couple of days and used a small brush to loosen the grunge. No luck. Salt has corroded the tag pretty severely. And of course the worst area just happens to be where the important numbers were...

So the good news is that there's a person on the hamb site that works for GM, and has access to the records for the drivetrain. With the information I was able to supply he was able to determine that it is a 93 give or take 6 months, WC T5 from a 4 cylinder S10, with 4.03 first gear. I'm thinking that I can compensate for the extra length if with an engine plate of some tbd thickness. We'll just have to wait and see...

[Russell]

There has to be an online decoder for Russell's pic. I don't know the code myself.

Dan

Let's make some more assumptions! There are 12 slots and 10 have dots so it was cast in October 1987? You think the guy who's job it it to punch the date stamp keeps up with what month it is?