Some progress.....after losing 2 weeks to a Sinus Headache and Cold.
The rear inside panel boards were really beat up.
originally I was going to black vinyl cover the 1/4" cabinet plywood left over from a old project.
I did not keep the speaker and ashtray openings.
Then after copying and cutting out the two pieces......the Lightbulb came on to Stain and Polyurethane them.
Then today is Wednesday, and my Farm Girl "HausFrau", when he was done cleaning the house, helped me get the left rear fender skin Glued On!
Being the First Time I have ever Bond Glued any auto body panels, I think I used every larger clamp in the shop.
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of Heather while we were doing this, but My Brain was On Getting it on without SCREWING UP !!
Pulled the clamps off. That fender skin is ON ROCK SOLID. Next is cleaning off the little bit of "Squeeze Out" in a couple of places, and then skin coat some bondo at the edge by the left door and rear door to conceal the metal edge.
Next was to address the Rocker Panel Rubber Molding bracket. The top of the bracket mostly had rusted away.
Chiseled what was left of the tin bracket, and Ground off the spot welds.
Then cut up a old cabinet to make some new upper brackets. (Unashamed to where I get the thickness and temper of metal I need).
Using my "Harbor Freight" Bead Roller, put a 1/8" offset on the top edge for the lip of the rubber moulding to set in.
Here's a pix of the fit up.
Here's how the Rubber Rocker Molding fits.
Then under coated everything on final assembly. And called it a Day.
Had to go plug the heater on the Tractor, and get ready for the First Real Winter Storm coming thru tonight.
Next was to attach the fender lip bracket.
test fitted, drilled 3 pop rivet holes as locators. Put the "2 Part" goop on...
both sides, and spread it out heavy paint thin......
Then put 2 beads on the fender skin,
pop riveted the 3 locators, and clamped watching for Good Squeeze Out in the fender side for a Water (rust) tight seal.
With our Family Christmas here on the 19th, Thank God they All went home.
I now had some free time to get at the Timber Cruiser again.
Bondo on the matching edges.
I'm not a body man, but did it in 2 skin coats of Bondo. Also touched up a couple clamp "Hickies".
have a little touch up sanding by the upper corner, and light sand a "Fuzz Spot" in the primer. Note to self, DON'T LEAVE SHOP RAGS Hanging Out of Your Back Pockets while painting !
Last edited by Captain; December 26, 2021, 08:30 AM.
Also sealed up the rear inner fenders where they meet the outter fender skin.
I used Boat Fiberglass and mesh.
This is NOT a Restoration !! I'm just Extending the Service Life of my Exploring Rig!
Then sprayed Truck Bed Liner two coats.
Hopefully this will hold for another 5-6 years.
Work has been progressing on the Timber Cruiser. Didn't take pix of little improvements, like a better rear door restraining strap, instead of the tiny OEM cable, and covers made where the seat belt retractors were. (Reason following)
I'm like a Absent Minded Professor, or as it's Now Called ADD, OCD, PTSD, and the rest of the alphabet.......
Several years ago at a Swap Meet, I bought NIB 4 Point harnesses for the Timber Cruiser. They were out of the Date Stamp Cert for some classes of Racing.
Forgot all about them, found them when looking for some Jeep parts for my son Shaun.
So, Now is the time to install them !!
Open the boxes like a kid at Christmas...
Find out, Same Mfr. But two different styles!
One is a single bolt mount on the shoulder belts.
Well, I decided to put that set on the Jump Seat Side so maybe it will give the Spotter a little better movement while navigating our eventual death.....LOL
Now, had to add a cross bar in the roll bar for the Shoulder belts. In go the seats again to get the location and angle. Here's the mock up.
then pull the roll bar out, and weld the cross bar in, back in to Mark Shoulder belts bolts, out it comes, drill holes, clean up my welds and paint.
Then between other projects, finished putting up the Yooper Paint Booth.
After giving the Timber Cruiser a serious cleaning for Paint, moved it into the Paint Booth. Hoping to start the 3 color Camo tomorrow as today is filled with life's other things, dump run, supplies run, and it's to warm up in to the High 20's from the subzero temps, so now I will fire up the Tractor and finally plow out the driveway and between the buildings.
Work has been progressing on the Timber Cruiser. Didn't take pix of little improvements, like a better rear door restraining strap, instead of the tiny OEM cable, and covers made where the seat belt retractors were. (Reason following)
I'm like a Absent Minded Professor, or as it's Now Called ADD, OCD, PTSD, and the rest of the alphabet.......
Several years ago at a Swap Meet, I bought NIB 4 Point harnesses for the Timber Cruiser. They were out of the Date Stamp Cert for some classes of Racing.
Forgot all about them, found them when looking for some Jeep parts for my son Shaun.
So, Now is the time to install them !!
Open the boxes like a kid at Christmas...
Find out, Same Mfr. But two different styles!
One is a single bolt mount on the shoulder belts.
An FYI - The belts with a single bolt, you can weld a bolt to the cage centered on the seat back and bolt it down with a nylox of the ol' double nut trick. You can weld the bolt w/threads pointing up or toward the back which will allow the belt to wrap nicely around the shoulder bar and spreads the force around the bar a bit. Here's the best pic I have of the single bolt system from Stanger - hope you can see it. What we did here was machine a block of steel with the curve of the bar then TIG it on and run a bolt thru the block but a bolt head welded to the tube should be fine, too.
The belt w/2 loops doesn't need a bolt at all - just pull the webbing thru the bolt fittings then loop the belts directly around the shoulder bar and thread the belts back thru the adjuster as they currecntly are (from the pic they seem to be threaded correctly). Here's how mine look though my seat-to-cab rear is really tight. These pass LSR inspection, BTW. When I'm belted in the belts do not hit the metal of the seat back and have a slight downward pull on the shoulders which is what you want. Your shoulder bar looks to be positioned well.
If you want newer old belts us LSR guys can fix you right up. We're tossing them every 5 years. Let me know what you need.
Dan
Last edited by DanStokes; January 8, 2022, 03:02 PM.
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