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When the car showed up it had some ridiculous looking repair to the left rear lower quarter. I'm not sure what's up with the graffiti spray paint, but that's easy to fix. The panel was for a different year Galaxie and was put on too low, plus it has an extra body line that doesn't belong there. So it has to come off and be reattached.
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I put the 9" rear from the green hardtop in this car. It was in pretty rough shape, I just used the housing and backing plates. I had a fresh rebuilt 3.89 center section with a spool that I picked up for $120 that I wanted to use so I ordered some cut to fit axles and bearings to go along with the new brakes and shocks. The Custom came with a bunch of goodies in the trunk, including 4 new shocks and brake shoes. I bought wheel cylinders and hardware, and had the drums turned.
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Originally posted by VTJUNK View Post
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nice work - I'm astonished you can still find a place that will turn rotors/drums - you must have a good old auto parts shop around. I've actually contemplated buying an old aamco machine since nobody seems to turn rotors or drums anymore around here - but the last thing I need is another space takerupper in the shop that only gets used a few times a year.
What is your plan for a final finish on the car? I'm getting to be a bigger and bigger fan of leaving stuff in primer, not a "rat-rod" per-se but the costs in time and materials between - good enough to drive, and good enough to put a shiny paint job on - are sometimes insurmountable.There's always something new to learn.
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Originally posted by milner351 View Postnice work - I'm astonished you can still find a place that will turn rotors/drums - you must have a good old auto parts shop around. I've actually contemplated buying an old aamco machine since nobody seems to turn rotors or drums anymore around here - but the last thing I need is another space takerupper in the shop that only gets used a few times a year.
What is your plan for a final finish on the car? I'm getting to be a bigger and bigger fan of leaving stuff in primer, not a "rat-rod" per-se but the costs in time and materials between - good enough to drive, and good enough to put a shiny paint job on - are sometimes insurmountable.
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Originally posted by langleylad View Post
If I recall correctly leaving a vehicle in primer is not a good thing if the vehicle is going to see any rain. If what I read is correct, primer does not protect the metal like paint would.
Dan
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Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
Spot on. Primer (other than epoxy primer) is hydroscopic and will actually hold water against the metal. Paint from Eastwood or other on-line sources isn't all that pricey and most of us can work out a spray booth with box fans, furnace filters, and plastic sheeting. In fact, I've done decent paint outdoors. It won't be perfect but it will be OK. I see no need for most of us to have show quality paint when it will get door dings, etc. if you drive it. Best piece of painting advice I ever got - spray for shine. If you apply paint after it begins to shine it'll run and less than shine yields orange peel. Once you've done the prep for a decent primer job the hard part is done so you might as well make it a color.
Dan
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Originally posted by milner351 View Postnice work - I'm astonished you can still find a place that will turn rotors/drums - you must have a good old auto parts shop around. I've actually contemplated buying an old aamco machine since nobody seems to turn rotors or drums anymore around here - but the last thing I need is another space takerupper in the shop that only gets used a few times a year.
What is your plan for a final finish on the car? I'm getting to be a bigger and bigger fan of leaving stuff in primer, not a "rat-rod" per-se but the costs in time and materials between - good enough to drive, and good enough to put a shiny paint job on - are sometimes insurmountable.
I'm going to paint the car eventually but for now I'll do a scuff and shoot base/clear on the red primered rear half after I touch up the quarters.
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Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
Spot on. Primer (other than epoxy primer) is hydroscopic and will actually hold water against the metal. Paint from Eastwood or other on-line sources isn't all that pricey and most of us can work out a spray booth with box fans, furnace filters, and plastic sheeting. In fact, I've done decent paint outdoors. It won't be perfect but it will be OK. I see no need for most of us to have show quality paint when it will get door dings, etc. if you drive it. Best piece of painting advice I ever got - spray for shine. If you apply paint after it begins to shine it'll run and less than shine yields orange peel. Once you've done the prep for a decent primer job the hard part is done so you might as well make it a color.
Dan
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Waiting for warm weather so I can get real work done on this Custom. My main shop is not heated or insulated for now. Anything I do has to be done in the smaller heated shop. This summer I plan on having the rest heated. However, I have finally hit a goal. In the last month I've sold enough leftover parts from the donor car to be in this project for free. I think I can pull another $1000 out of it, enough to buy 2 15x8.5 Cragars (used) two slicks, and two front tires. I already have a pair of 15x4.5 Cragars for the front and they came with new 165 tires that are too short so I'll sell the tires and put the cash towards something taller that doesn't look ridiculous.
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