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  • #31
    These were the ones I was thinking of - as long as the quality of the lifters from CR is good and their fantastic break in machine keeps doing it's thing - I think that's the best alternative - especially with the price of roller conversions on FE's

    Free Shipping - Crower Camsaver Hydraulic Lifters with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Lifters at Summit Racing.

    There's always something new to learn.

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    • #32
      Very cool build !

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      • #33
        When the car showed up it had some ridiculous looking repair to the left rear lower quarter. I'm not sure what's up with the graffiti spray paint, but that's easy to fix. The panel was for a different year Galaxie and was put on too low, plus it has an extra body line that doesn't belong there. So it has to come off and be reattached. Click image for larger version

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        • #34
          Needs finishing but it's all welded up. Not a first rate repair, the quarter has lots of filler, but in the interest of not getting out of control and keep moving forward, I'm going with it. I did this while waiting on parts for the rear axle.Click image for larger version

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          • #35
            I put the 9" rear from the green hardtop in this car. It was in pretty rough shape, I just used the housing and backing plates. I had a fresh rebuilt 3.89 center section with a spool that I picked up for $120 that I wanted to use so I ordered some cut to fit axles and bearings to go along with the new brakes and shocks. The Custom came with a bunch of goodies in the trunk, including 4 new shocks and brake shoes. I bought wheel cylinders and hardware, and had the drums turned.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by VTJUNK View Post
              Needs finishing but it's all welded up. Not a first rate repair, the quarter has lots of filler, but in the interest of not getting out of control and keep moving forward, I'm going with it. I did this while waiting on parts for the rear axle.Click image for larger version

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              As far as body work is concerned it's way to easy to spend hours and hours trying to get it perfect , you gotta know when to say when and move on ....

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              • #37
                nice work - I'm astonished you can still find a place that will turn rotors/drums - you must have a good old auto parts shop around. I've actually contemplated buying an old aamco machine since nobody seems to turn rotors or drums anymore around here - but the last thing I need is another space takerupper in the shop that only gets used a few times a year.

                What is your plan for a final finish on the car? I'm getting to be a bigger and bigger fan of leaving stuff in primer, not a "rat-rod" per-se but the costs in time and materials between - good enough to drive, and good enough to put a shiny paint job on - are sometimes insurmountable.
                There's always something new to learn.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                  nice work - I'm astonished you can still find a place that will turn rotors/drums - you must have a good old auto parts shop around. I've actually contemplated buying an old aamco machine since nobody seems to turn rotors or drums anymore around here - but the last thing I need is another space takerupper in the shop that only gets used a few times a year.

                  What is your plan for a final finish on the car? I'm getting to be a bigger and bigger fan of leaving stuff in primer, not a "rat-rod" per-se but the costs in time and materials between - good enough to drive, and good enough to put a shiny paint job on - are sometimes insurmountable.
                  If I recall correctly leaving a vehicle in primer is not a good thing if the vehicle is going to see any rain. If what I read is correct, primer does not protect the metal like paint would.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by langleylad View Post

                    If I recall correctly leaving a vehicle in primer is not a good thing if the vehicle is going to see any rain. If what I read is correct, primer does not protect the metal like paint would.
                    Spot on. Primer (other than epoxy primer) is hydroscopic and will actually hold water against the metal. Paint from Eastwood or other on-line sources isn't all that pricey and most of us can work out a spray booth with box fans, furnace filters, and plastic sheeting. In fact, I've done decent paint outdoors. It won't be perfect but it will be OK. I see no need for most of us to have show quality paint when it will get door dings, etc. if you drive it. Best piece of painting advice I ever got - spray for shine. If you apply paint after it begins to shine it'll run and less than shine yields orange peel. Once you've done the prep for a decent primer job the hard part is done so you might as well make it a color.

                    Dan

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

                      Spot on. Primer (other than epoxy primer) is hydroscopic and will actually hold water against the metal. Paint from Eastwood or other on-line sources isn't all that pricey and most of us can work out a spray booth with box fans, furnace filters, and plastic sheeting. In fact, I've done decent paint outdoors. It won't be perfect but it will be OK. I see no need for most of us to have show quality paint when it will get door dings, etc. if you drive it. Best piece of painting advice I ever got - spray for shine. If you apply paint after it begins to shine it'll run and less than shine yields orange peel. Once you've done the prep for a decent primer job the hard part is done so you might as well make it a color.

                      Dan
                      On my Cougar , I used Eastwood primers , paint and clear and I couldn’t be happier. The Cougar was the first car that I’ve ever painted and in my shop to boot . Like Dan said it’s all in the preparation. If I can pull off a nice paint job , anybody that wants to can too .

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                        nice work - I'm astonished you can still find a place that will turn rotors/drums - you must have a good old auto parts shop around. I've actually contemplated buying an old aamco machine since nobody seems to turn rotors or drums anymore around here - but the last thing I need is another space takerupper in the shop that only gets used a few times a year.

                        What is your plan for a final finish on the car? I'm getting to be a bigger and bigger fan of leaving stuff in primer, not a "rat-rod" per-se but the costs in time and materials between - good enough to drive, and good enough to put a shiny paint job on - are sometimes insurmountable.
                        A friend of mine turned them for me and opened up the center hole to fit the register of the new axles. Between myself and three friends there's nothing we can't do.

                        I'm going to paint the car eventually but for now I'll do a scuff and shoot base/clear on the red primered rear half after I touch up the quarters.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

                          Spot on. Primer (other than epoxy primer) is hydroscopic and will actually hold water against the metal. Paint from Eastwood or other on-line sources isn't all that pricey and most of us can work out a spray booth with box fans, furnace filters, and plastic sheeting. In fact, I've done decent paint outdoors. It won't be perfect but it will be OK. I see no need for most of us to have show quality paint when it will get door dings, etc. if you drive it. Best piece of painting advice I ever got - spray for shine. If you apply paint after it begins to shine it'll run and less than shine yields orange peel. Once you've done the prep for a decent primer job the hard part is done so you might as well make it a color.

                          Dan
                          I ran a car in lacquer primer for a while until I heard how bad that was. I stripped it and did it in epoxy primer with a blue base coat mixed in for a suede effect. This was in 93, so I was ahead of my time lol Click image for larger version

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                          • #43
                            Waiting for warm weather so I can get real work done on this Custom. My main shop is not heated or insulated for now. Anything I do has to be done in the smaller heated shop. This summer I plan on having the rest heated. However, I have finally hit a goal. In the last month I've sold enough leftover parts from the donor car to be in this project for free. I think I can pull another $1000 out of it, enough to buy 2 15x8.5 Cragars (used) two slicks, and two front tires. I already have a pair of 15x4.5 Cragars for the front and they came with new 165 tires that are too short so I'll sell the tires and put the cash towards something taller that doesn't look ridiculous.

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                            • #44
                              Click image for larger version

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                              • #45
                                Finally getting back to working on the 66 Custom. I built a temporary work space inside my shop just work on it. Click image for larger version

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