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  • Just thinking about your problem with the undercoat. And my mind wandered back to the past, and a project that I had while at the research firm. The crux of it was how to remove coal tar coating on linepipe. Air Liquide (Liquid Air here in the US) had developed a way to freeze the coating on linepipe to make it brittle and a modified wrapping machine to knock it off while frozen. The project determined that it did not damage the pipe, which was my part of the project.

    Next, I remembered that someone makes a rotary stripping head that uses wires that flail out and strip stuff, don't remember who, what, where etc, but here's my take on a setup that any of us could use.

    Dry ice (solid CO2) to freeze the coating, and a needle scaler to do the stripping. Both are relatively inexpensive, many of us already have a needle scaler, and dry ice is cheap. Well if there's a supplier nearby. Get the Cheetos size, pack it on the coating in small sections, wait for 5 minutes, and hit it with the needle scaler. Obviously don't use it on thin body metal, but for the heavier cross-section areas, have at it. But at a very flat angle, for a peeling effect. Just a thought, for what it's worth...

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    • To sorta quote JJ Cale (assuming the undercoating is female), "She don't like, she don't like, she don't like PROPANE!" 46Austin is spot on. I find I can heat about a 4"x4" area until it's shiny then easily scrape away the crap. Actually pretty easy once I figured that out. The gasket scraper works better than a putty knife. Just can't get in a rush. The stripped area (check yesterday's pic for progress) took about 45 minutes.


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      • Now yer cookin' with gas!

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        • If I were you.....
          be a Tom Sawyer about it.
          Have Rusty Iron Friends over, Like Dave....
          And have them "Show You How IT'S DONE !!"
          It will get done, and you won't get the "Lobster Hands" Cramps.
          LOL
          ​​​​​​
          ​​​

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          • Originally posted by Captain View Post
            If I were you.....
            be a Tom Sawyer about it.
            Have Rusty Iron Friends over, Like Dave....
            And have them "Show You How IT'S DONE !!"
            It will get done, and you won't get the "Lobster Hands" Cramps.
            LOL
            ​​​​​​
            ​​​
            Doesn't work with us. We get to bench racing and nothing gets done! Well, we do solve all of the world's problems.

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            • Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
              Now yer cookin' with gas!
              ...

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              ...

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              • Originally posted by Loren View Post
                ...

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                That boy ain't right!

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                • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                  To sorta quote JJ Cale (assuming the undercoating is female), "She don't like, she don't like, she don't like PROPANE!" 46Austin is spot on. I find I can heat about a 4"x4" area until it's shiny then easily scrape away the crap. Actually pretty easy once I figured that out. The gasket scraper works better than a putty knife. Just can't get in a rush. The stripped area (check yesterday's pic for progress) took about 45 minutes.
                  I discovered an easier way to remove the undercoating, but still required heat. I have one of those oscillating multi tools I got from Harbor Fright for remodeling work around the house. I put the scraper blade on it, and used it to scrape the undercoating as I heated it. Saved me from sore hands and muscles and it went much faster too!

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                  • Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post

                    I discovered an easier way to remove the undercoating, but still required heat. I have one of those oscillating multi tools I got from Harbor Fright for remodeling work around the house. I put the scraper blade on it, and used it to scrape the undercoating as I heated it. Saved me from sore hands and muscles and it went much faster too!
                    Good thought in general. I have a Fein, the European one that HF copied - it's a really Fein tool! I think in this case the scraper will be too big to fit in the indented places but I think I'll give it a try - maybe it'll do the bigger areas and I'll just have to scrape the narrow spots. IIRC I do have a fairly narrow scraper blade so it's worth digging in the fancy box it came in.

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                    • Great tip, 1946Austin! It worked better than I thought and I was able to get most of the narrow stamping by working the blade sideways across the indentation. The rear area is now pretty well stripped and once I have the engine bay fully stripped (I need to remove the brake and clutch hydraulics and the rest of the wiring harnesses, etc) I'll finish up that area so it'll be ready for the few areas that need blasting. The scraper blade will need a serious cleaning but that's no biggie.

                      Interesting info about one of the previous owners. Clearly this car was at one time owned by a blacksmith. Once the boot floor was stripped there was clear evidence of him/her dropping the anvil into the trunk and beating the snot out of the sheetmetal. Or maybe one of the PO's was a coyote? They have a long history with anvils, too.


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                      Last edited by DanStokes; December 17, 2022, 08:30 PM.

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                      • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

                        Good thought in general. I have a Fein, the European one that HF copied - it's a really Fein tool! I think in this case the scraper will be too big to fit in the indented places but I think I'll give it a try - maybe it'll do the bigger areas and I'll just have to scrape the narrow spots. IIRC I do have a fairly narrow scraper blade so it's worth digging in the fancy box it came in.
                        Had a width issue also, so bought a 2nd scraper attachment and just cut it down with a cutoff wheel, and cleaned up the edges. Made it 1" wide and it worked great for those tighter places, and used my other for open spaces.

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                        • Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post

                          Had a width issue also, so bought a 2nd scraper attachment and just cut it down with a cutoff wheel, and cleaned up the edges. Made it 1" wide and it worked great for those tighter places, and used my other for open spaces.
                          If I had more to do I would have done the same but I just had that small area left so I muddled along. If I ever run into this again I'll follow this process! Thanks again.

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                          • A minor task but one I was a bit concerned about. I wanted to remover the rear jounce bumpers so I could clean and paint that area but it wasn't obvious how they came out. The guys on the MG forum had some ideas and using their input I got 'em off. Pretty simple, really. I squirted the hole in the middle of the bumper with WD40 then twisted and worked the bumper up with a screwdriver under the bottom of said bumper and it popped right off w/o damage. They simply push back over the "mushroom" shown in the attached pic. A little silicone lube and I expect they'll slip back on.


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                            • My oldest bro was here for Christmas and we took an afternoon to strip out the engine bay which is now empty. I should take a pic of that. When we got the brake/clutch assembly out we found this: Besides the iron oxide lace he interesting thing is that the clutch and brake masters come out with the box that bolts in this location, along with their respective pedals! The whole deal lifts out in a unit. So after I rehab all that mess (new clutch and brake masters and rebuilt power booster) it goes back in in a chunk.


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                              No patch panel available for that area and I decided it needed rolled edges on that center hole so a bit of cutting with the snips and fancy hammer work on the vise/anvil and Bob's yer uncle. I had to weld up the corners but that was easy enough. A little grinder, a little die grinder and all is well. I hope to get out tomorrow and weld it in but I seem to be fighting a cold.


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                              • Moving along....

                                The brake/clutch master assembly patch panel welded in place.


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                                And the next visitation of ugly. This is the flange that the LF fender bolts to along with rot that has crept into the engine bay. Clearly this engine did not leak properly. I got started on this a bit tonight and have a plan of attack, hopefully tomorrow.




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