Many decades ago, I'd just roll the car getting an oil change into the circle, pull the drain plug and filter, and wait 20 minutes. Then roll back to the garage and refill and replace. Here's where:
Here's the circle in front of my parents house.
Looking the other way.
And downhill to the garage. Yup, that's 12 year-old me on our aircraft tug. Let's not dwell on how many decades ago that was...
That driveway was pea stone, and mud! And dusty in the summer. So it got oiled to keep the dust under control, kind of...
So the parental units didn't have any problems with the dumping of oil on it. And we were even instructed to get the weeds in particular, as the hot oil did a good job of killing the weeds. So innocent in those days. I think the current owner has paved it, so what's the difference? Asphalt is the bottom of the distillation curve, and contains way worse than the stuff in drain oil.
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that oil filter... they make a mess when they're in the wide open
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostDriver's side:
This side was easier w/o the water pump in the way. Just a little wiggle in the plate off the marine mount, a couple of bolts w/welded-on nuts, and again Bob's yer Uncle. I did have to pull the intake to work on the mount but it wasn't too hard.
W/O intake:
And with the intake back on:
The next step was to pull the engine back out so I can RTV the original oil pan back in place. The good news is that the engine comes out easily with the mounts in place meaning that my planning paid off.
But None of the Homeless People !!
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostLazy day today as I finished up the dipstick and installed it. I had the stock dipstick from the Solstice but it wouldn't wind it's way around the MGB chassis bits (steering shaft, etc.) and arrive at a spot where I could check the oil. After several attempts I realized that I had to increase the bend just after is comes out of the pan and then rotate the tube at the point it traversed the engine. All in all it worked out REALLY well.
The finished unit. Note the 1/2" compression union. Initially I was planning to cut the tube then weld it back in JUST the right orientation so it aligned properly. I put the calipers on the tube and darn if it wasn't almost exactly 1/2" (probably 13mm given that this is a metric engine). I used to do instrument plumbing and when I needed and adjustable angle I went with a compression union and the lightbulb came on over my head. Worked perfectly. There's a little length added with the union so when I refill the pan I'll check and remark the stick as needed but it won't be much.
As I messed with it I cracked the section of the tube that goes thru the pan right at the O-ring groove which is where they always fail (I've done this before). After trying several fixes in the past I've found that braze works best when followed by some careful file work. So here's my fix.
Installed as viewed from the top. Looks like it grew there.
And up from the bottom. I may put a wipe of RTV around the part that goes into the pan and maybe go with fatter O-rings as it slid in pretty easily. Don't want leaks.
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Lazy day today as I finished up the dipstick and installed it. I had the stock dipstick from the Solstice but it wouldn't wind it's way around the MGB chassis bits (steering shaft, etc.) and arrive at a spot where I could check the oil. After several attempts I realized that I had to increase the bend just after is comes out of the pan and then rotate the tube at the point it traversed the engine. All in all it worked out REALLY well.
The finished unit. Note the 1/2" compression union. Initially I was planning to cut the tube then weld it back in JUST the right orientation so it aligned properly. I put the calipers on the tube and darn if it wasn't almost exactly 1/2" (probably 13mm given that this is a metric engine). I used to do instrument plumbing and when I needed and adjustable angle I went with a compression union and the lightbulb came on over my head. Worked perfectly. There's a little length added with the union so when I refill the pan I'll check and remark the stick as needed but it won't be much.
As I messed with it I cracked the section of the tube that goes thru the pan right at the O-ring groove which is where they always fail (I've done this before). After trying several fixes in the past I've found that braze works best when followed by some careful file work. So here's my fix.
Installed as viewed from the top. Looks like it grew there.
And up from the bottom. I may put a wipe of RTV around the part that goes into the pan and maybe go with fatter O-rings as it slid in pretty easily. Don't want leaks.
Last edited by DanStokes; March 9, 2024, 01:46 PM.
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Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View PostSo all of the cogitating and ruminating over the design paid off. Good job. I like those motor mounts. I'm going to get a pair and see if they work on the Whatever project.
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So all of the cogitating and ruminating over the design paid off. Good job. I like those motor mounts. I'm going to get a pair and see if they work on the Whatever project.
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Driver's side:
This side was easier w/o the water pump in the way. Just a little wiggle in the plate off the marine mount, a couple of bolts w/welded-on nuts, and again Bob's yer Uncle. I did have to pull the intake to work on the mount but it wasn't too hard.
W/O intake:
And with the intake back on:
The next step was to pull the engine back out so I can RTV the original oil pan back in place. The good news is that the engine comes out easily with the mounts in place meaning that my planning paid off.
Last edited by DanStokes; March 7, 2024, 08:39 PM.
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Right motor mount made and in place. I wish I could have avoided the cantilevered thing but this became the art of the possible and I'm sure it'll be fine.
The components before assembly. Note that there are 2 bolts that come up thru the bottom of the connection to the marine mount - this make it possible to remove and replace components without pulling the engine.
And installed. I'm thinking about pruning the end of the square tube section for appearance but it's OK for now.
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Motor mount info:
I got mine from Go2Marine online. The mounts are made by Bushings, Inc and there are a number of options depending on physical size, weight limits, etc. so if you go to the Go2Marine website and enter "Motor Mounts" you'll get a listing of the various options. I wasn't able to buy directly from Bushings but if you had a business address you probably could though I don't know if you'd ave any money. Shipping was a bit slow from Washington State (IIRC, somewhere in the Pacific NW, anyhow)) but I got them in about a week. There is a low profile mount available but the inner section does not interlock with the housing on those so I took a pass. Just saying they are an option.
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Did you say earlier anything about those mounts? Like where you got them from? And part numbers, manufacturers, etc? Like captain said, they look like the cat's pajamas, and seeing as how I need to make new motor mounts for the Whatever project, these are perfect for it. I was looking at making something that was going to use rod end type bushings. Theze will be way easier. Weld some nuts in the tops of the frame rails, and bring a square tube from the ... well I can see it in my head.
Another idea to plaigerize. Thanks Dan! Mongo promises to be good...
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Mounts in place. Tomorrow I'll slide the engine back in the hole and start building out from the plates on the engine (shown a few entries back) and the mounts. Cut, fit, fiddle.
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aren't rivnuts wonderful?
Those are some nice looking "marine mounts".
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Like the idea of "Marine Mounts"
These might come in Handy for a Future Project to Marry a Industrial Stationary Engine into a Truck Frame. The industrial engine has Front Mounts and the original has side mounts.
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