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  • #61
    Oh, of course that means you'd have to take it apart, which might not be possible. And warranty? What warranty?

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    • #62
      Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
      Oh, of course that means you'd have to take it apart, which might not be possible. And warranty? What warranty?
      Sadly that's a no-go. The "lump" still exists but there are no passages in it according to folks I've talked with who know more than I do (which doesn't take much). Evidently they just keep using the same outside mold but don't put the internal bit in there before casting. The Howe units look OK if you're using "traditional" American stuff but their eyes glazed over when I said "Ecotec".

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      • #63
        Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

        Sadly that's a no-go. The "lump" still exists but there are no passages in it according to folks I've talked with who know more than I do (which doesn't take much). Evidently they just keep using the same outside mold but don't put the internal bit in there before casting. The Howe units look OK if you're using "traditional" American stuff but their eyes glazed over when I said "Ecotec".
        But Dan, things like that never stopped us back in A^2. It has the boss, so it could be drilled. I imagine the boss was drilled in a fixture so alignment was correct. For a one time project, you must know someone with a milling machine that could fixture it and drill a small diameter hole all the way into the bore. And then drill it for the correct tap size..

        However it would require taking it apart if possible. Can you come up with a used one? I'd be willing to try on one that's cheap or free to you, just in casehappens.

        And like the 1st sentence, remember taking a brand new Subaru Justy transmission apart so we could make a fwd into a 4wd? Okay so it was not our money, sort of. Hence see if you can get a used one...

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        • #64
          I think it'll be good. There's a service bulletin on Solstice clutch bleeding and evidently it works so I'll just go with that.

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          • #65
            If I'd not used their stuff I'd not pass it on but Send-Cut-Send does laser cutting with a decently tight tolerance.
            A Canadian who does interesting work (Throttle Stop Garage) now has a discount code after pestering them into shipping to Canada.
            Discount Code: 15TSGCAN

            I'm starting to design some new parts for the Riviera just to use that code and give some support for shipping to Canadians now.
            Central TEXAS Sleeper
            USAF Physicist

            ROA# 9790

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            • #66
              We have a local waterjet company that does great work and they seem to hold tolerances really well. I'm still trying to decide if my washers are OK or not - cheap and effective.

              Dan

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              • #67
                Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                ... I'm still trying to decide if my washers are OK or not ...
                Any concern with the outside elements getting into the clutch area through the space provided by your washers?

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                  Any concern with the outside elements getting into the clutch area through the space provided by your washers?
                  Not much. It's well behind the clutch and I've known guys to run a SBC with the lower tin flywheel cover off w/o issue so this will be much better shielded. I recently found out that the Cobalt/HHR SS versions used a 1/8" spacer between the rear on the engine and the bellhousing so if I can get my hands on one of those that'll work too. So far no luck tracking one down but I'm working on it.

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

                    Not much. It's well behind the clutch and I've known guys to run a SBC with the lower tin flywheel cover off w/o issue so this will be much better shielded. I recently found out that the Cobalt/HHR SS versions used a 1/8" spacer between the rear on the engine and the bellhousing so if I can get my hands on one of those that'll work too. So far no luck tracking one down but I'm working on it.
                    So that spacer is just like an engine plate. That could be cut out with a bandsaw or sabersaw, and if the bellhousing alignment is accomplished by dowel pins, then you could get some eighth inch aluminum plate and saw one out yourself. Kind of like this: Click image for larger version

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                    This is quarter inch plate and I cut it out with a sabersaw and smoothed it with files and grinders. The dowels align everything so no fancy machine work was required. I laid out one hole carefully and then used the bellhousing and transfer punches to locate the rest of the holes. As I drilled holes, I added bolts before punching the next hole and drilling it. Both the inner and outer plates were made that way. Took some time but didn't cost me anything but the plate cost, and that wasn't exorbitant.

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post

                      So that spacer is just like an engine plate. That could be cut out with a bandsaw or sabersaw, and if the bellhousing alignment is accomplished by dowel pins, then you could get some eighth inch aluminum plate and saw one out yourself. Kind of like this:
                      This is quarter inch plate and I cut it out with a sabersaw and smoothed it with files and grinders. The dowels align everything so no fancy machine work was required. I laid out one hole carefully and then used the bellhousing and transfer punches to locate the rest of the holes. As I drilled holes, I added bolts before punching the next hole and drilling it. Both the inner and outer plates were made that way. Took some time but didn't cost me anything but the plate cost, and that wasn't exorbitant.
                      That's the idea. The waterjet guys build a program from a part I bring them (in this case I'd bring in the bellhousing) so everything is exactly where it goes then they cut it out. Based on previous jobs they've done for me it will probably run $150 or so and to my mind will be worth it. Unless you want to bring your skills this way?

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                      • #71
                        My skills pale in comparison to yours, provable by the quantity of finished vehicles in the last 20 years. Zero divided into anything is infinite. BTW I'm the zero here

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                        • #72
                          Having skills and using them are two different things. I slop stuff together but continue to do so 'till the end.

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                          • #73
                            I Like 1/16 over holes........
                            That "Fudge Factor" !!
                            Flexabillity survives Better than Rigid applications.......LOL

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Captain View Post
                              I Like 1/16 over holes........
                              That "Fudge Factor" !!
                              Flexabillity survives Better than Rigid applications.......LOL
                              Rat tail file! Makes any hole line up with another... almost like having a milling machine. Well that's what I keep telling myself!

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post

                                Rat tail file! Makes any hole line up with another... almost like having a milling machine. Well that's what I keep telling myself!
                                Or a die grinder with a conical burr followed by a rat tail to square up the edge of the hole. Do it all the time.

                                In other news - I have the Solstice bellhousing back off and I'll drop it off at the waterjet place today so they can pull dimensions off of it.

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