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  • Looks like a winner!

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    • I like it, but I'd probably end the black color at the top center of the front wheelwell opening, and not with the vertical line in the middle of nowhere.

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      • Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
        I like it, but I'd probably end the black color at the top center of the front wheelwell opening, and not with the vertical line in the middle of nowhere.
        The guy who does the renders and I are both looking at that transition - this was just a first cut at it. I was thinking of cutting it at the bottom of the headlight scoop such that the scoop would be black with a mostly hidden break at the turn signal. Or maybe at the top of the wheel arch.

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        • I agree with you Dan, but you could also follow the body line all the way around, tying both sides together around the grille... And, flat black the headlight buckets.... Just my opinion, it's your project to do with as you like...
          Patrick & Tammy
          - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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          • Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
            I agree with you Dan, but you could also follow the body line all the way around, tying both sides together around the grille... And, flat black the headlight buckets.... Just my opinion, it's your project to do with as you like...
            Still thinkin' on it....... There's lots of time between now and then.

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            • You get the email I sent today? Edit: you did and responded, I didn't check mine.....
              Last edited by Russell; September 30, 2022, 07:48 AM.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

              PB 60' 1.49
              ​​​​​​

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              • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                You get the email I sent today? Edit: you did and responded, I didn't check mine.....
                The guy hasn't replied yet.

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                • Stanger's heads are at the machine shop so I got back on the MG. Asa was over today and we almost got the right floor out. TONS of spotweld cutting which Asa took on with gusto - did I ever mention he's a great kid?

                  View from the back side:


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                  And toward the front:


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                  Turns out we had to cut the spotwelds on that triangula-rish plate (called the "heel plate") as it was spotwelded thru the floor. It was in rough shape and I have a new one but was hoping to leave it in for now to help with structure.


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                  And where we left it tonight. There are a couple of tack welds between the floor and the tunnel that we couldn't get from the bottom so we spun the B over and Asa had to leave so I'll cut those tomorrow.


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                  Last edited by DanStokes; October 5, 2022, 05:08 PM.

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                  • Moving along: The way sill replacement is presented in the restoration manual, you start with the floor, install the "castle rail" (sill bottom panel) next, the sort of stack the remaining panels into the assembly. I'll try it their way.

                    Right side floor out:

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                    Test fit of the new floor. It's pretty stout and fits better than I was expecting. I had envisioned that I'd have to cut and fit but it looks like it was made for it.


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                    There are areas where I need to fix the body shell to hold the new floor panel and here's the first home made panel all installed - this is the area behind the right seat where the rear bulkhead attaches to the floor. Note that the replaced area was welded in with a butt joint not a lapped seam. Lapped seams don't fit quite right (they're off by the thickness of the sheet metal) and the laps tend to hold water and therefore rust out more quickly. Yes, I know I have a couple of pinholes to zap with the MIG.


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                    And a shot from the back showing even more clearly 100% penetration and making it more obvious that it's butt welded.


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                    Looking forward to blasting the structure and treating it. So far it all looks adequately strong but it sure looks nasty and is harder to weld.
                    Last edited by DanStokes; October 6, 2022, 09:01 PM.

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                    • I fit the right floor and started welding it in place. Well, what passes for welding when I'm doing it. Not pretty but stout and given my superior grinder skills not too bad.

                      Where I left it tonight from the bottom:

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                      And from the top. Penetration of the rosettes seems OK. Many more of those to practice on tomorrow.



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                      I sorta scuffed off the E-coat before welding which more or less seemed to work. Your opinions?
                      Last edited by DanStokes; October 10, 2022, 05:22 PM.

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                      • With any luck you got the pictures. I have trouble with posting messages on bs, so let me know either way. On second look, it's probably not going to be a car you want. Looking closely at the areas you told me to check, there's significant but not terrible rust. However looking at the rockers, lots of cover-up and synthetic automobile body filler...

                        Should have taken the pictures with the smarter than me phone.

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                        • Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
                          With any luck you got the pictures. I have trouble with posting messages on bs, so let me know either way. On second look, it's probably not going to be a car you want. Looking closely at the areas you told me to check, there's significant but not terrible rust. However looking at the rockers, lots of cover-up and synthetic automobile body filler...

                          Should have taken the pictures with the smarter than me phone.
                          I really appreciate you taking a look. There are lots of good parts and if it was closer I'd scoop it up. Still, we have a find an excuse to make a trip!

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                          • there's weld-thru primer where you tacked it together? if not, copious amounts of seam sealer on the outside, and a solid coat of cavity wax on the inside (once it's painted) should make that okay.
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                              there's weld-thru primer where you tacked it together? if not, copious amounts of seam sealer on the outside, and a solid coat of cavity wax on the inside (once it's painted) should make that okay.
                              I plan to take it to a local off-road shop that does old-fashioned rustproofing (is that a thing in the off-road crowd?) and have them shoot inside the rocker boxes, etc. Pretty much seal the whole mess. These guys need all the help they can get.

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                              • I wonder if that place in A^2 that did Peter's Ford van is still in business, or rather I wonder if that franchise is still in existence. That seemed to be a good product. Oh well, I know you. You've done the research and have it figured out.

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