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  • Body filler is OK over bare metal. The main thing is that the area is roughed up a bit (called "tooth" in body land) so it has something to bite into. The pin holes are a mixed blessing - they can help the filler hang on but if the back of the repair is exposed to the weather it can absorb water which is never good. The spot we were talking about is inside the rear quarter and inside the car but it IS a roadster so maybe not the best. I "blipped" them today.

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    • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
      Body filler is OK over bare metal. The main thing is that the area is roughed up a bit (called "tooth" in body land) so it has something to bite into. The pin holes are a mixed blessing - they can help the filler hang on but if the back of the repair is exposed to the weather it can absorb water which is never good. The spot we were talking about is inside the rear quarter and inside the car but it IS a roadster so maybe not the best. I "blipped" them today.

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      • On to the left side. I won't post as much as this is pretty much a rerun of the right side. With today's pics I'll show you where the starting point is - slightly worse than the right.

        Starting point. That hole at the right of the pic is where (evidently) somebody tried to jack the car up with a floor jack by picking the weakest point in the car. The other side of that hole is where the driver's feet go. In this pic I have already removed the sheetmetal cover that was passing for a rocker panel.


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        Here I had another surprise. That rust hole is, as far as I can tell, the bottom of the heater box. I suspect water came in the cowl vent and has no place to exit. When I'm out at PnP I'll look for one of those one-way hoses that you sometimes see at the bottom of heater boxes. Oh, well - another hole.

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        Where I left it tonight. Some of the spotwelds are already drilled and others have a 1/8" hole drilled thru as a pilot. There are also some that are, as yet, untouched. Lots of drilling.


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        More powered MGB. Just add water and stir. Any takers?


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        Last edited by DanStokes; November 4, 2022, 07:16 PM.

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        • Have you found any surprise items falling out when you began turning the MG over to work on it? When I did my Austin I took the whole front clip off and set it up on the cowl end in the shop, and a bunch of debris fell out. When I swept it up I found two brand new old Canadian pennies the same year as the car! Guess someone put them in a safe spot for good luck when it was new and shipped to Canada.

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          • Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
            Have you found any surprise items falling out when you began turning the MG over to work on it? When I did my Austin I took the whole front clip off and set it up on the cowl end in the shop, and a bunch of debris fell out. When I swept it up I found two brand new old Canadian pennies the same year as the car! Guess someone put them in a safe spot for good luck when it was new and shipped to Canada.
            Two US dimes but evidently just lost on the carpet. I didn't think to look at the dates but I will. The whole peanuts in the shell were interesting (guessing the squirrel didn't get back to them) and a couple of days ago a snail shell. I'm looking forward to the day when I flip it over on the rotisserie and nothing falls out.

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            • As funny as it may sound , when I was doing rust repair on the Cougar I got great joy sweeping up all the rust and rotten metal that I cut out . The front torque boxes were rotten and upon removal of those I found sections of the subframe were rotten as well .

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              • Originally posted by langleylad View Post
                As funny as it may sound , when I was doing rust repair on the Cougar I got great joy sweeping up all the rust and rotten metal that I cut out . The front torque boxes were rotten and upon removal of those I found sections of the subframe were rotten as well .
                I can relate! I didn't know the Cougar was that far gone. Living in NC now I have said that I'll never do another rust total (if you look a bit you can find low rust projects here) then this one fell into my hands. By buddy in Alabama who passed it along to me really didn't know how bad it was but having done a B years ago I had a pretty strong expectation that it was worse than it seemed. Fortunately, you can buy ANY body part you need for these from England or Moss Motors in CA. Right now the exchange rate (pound sterling to USD) is such that it's cheaper to buy from England. Anyhow, you can actually buy a complete, assembled new body for these - but that's out of my price range.

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                • Actually the Cougar was in amazing condition rust wise. The front torque boxes and approximately 8” each side of the subframe and small spots in the front fenders and in front and behind the rear wheels . When I had it stripped to the shell a guy buying the original wheels asked me if it was a California car . The floor pan was mint , not a speck of rust .

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                  • Nice project. a tad crusty, it is past my skill level but to some that is nothing.
                    I thought that you are to etch prime, then use filler as the newer longer lasting way of doing it. not a pro so I could be totally wrong.
                    Looks like it be a fast fun car. I had a 2.4 in an HHR this should be lighter than that, so should be a fun car to toss around.
                    Last edited by 2020 mustang; November 5, 2022, 04:02 PM.

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                    • Originally posted by 2020 mustang View Post
                      Nice project. a tad crusty, it is past my skill level but to some that is nothing.
                      I thought that you are to etch prime, then use filler as the newer longer lasting way of doing it. not a pro so I could be totally wrong.
                      Looks like it be a fast fun car. I had a 2.4 in an HHR this should be lighter than that, so should be a fun car to toss around.
                      I use self-etching primer a lot but it isn't needed under body filler assuming the metal is clean and rough (no smoother than 80 grit). Where self etching primer really excels is on bare metal, especially if that metal has any rust at all, like the new membrane I'll be installing in a few days. It's a new piece but somehow was not E-coated so it sat around naked. I scuffed up, metal prepped it, and self-etched one side today and will flip it tomorrow and repeat the process.

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                      • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post

                        I use self-etching primer a lot but it isn't needed under body filler assuming the metal is clean and rough (no smoother than 80 grit). Where self etching primer really excels is on bare metal, especially if that metal has any rust at all, like the new membrane I'll be installing in a few days. It's a new piece but somehow was not E-coated so it sat around naked. I scuffed up, metal prepped it, and self-etched one side today and will flip it tomorrow and repeat the process.
                        OK. Like my last post, I am no pro. only know what little I do "think" I know from reading about others work on their projects and how they did it.
                        It looks like it be awesome after the restoration . That type of level of rust repair is past my limited skill level, but I like watching these type repairs.

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                        • Originally posted by 2020 mustang View Post

                          OK. Like my last post, I am no pro. only know what little I do "think" I know from reading about others work on their projects and how they did it.
                          It looks like it be awesome after the restoration . That type of level of rust repair is past my limited skill level, but I like watching these type repairs.
                          Really, having the facility and the tools makes it possible - the skill comes from having both then using them. I committed years ago to having both and I accumulated them over time. Now I'm just using what I have. None of it is really complicated, just time consuming.

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                          • When repairing rust and rot on my '39 Chev coupe, I think it was 5 or 6 times I said to myself I finally got it all. Then I'd be working on suspension, drivetrain, or something else, and I'd see a hole(s) staring me in the face, and have to change directions and go back to sheet metal repair.
                            Of course not having the room to do a rotisserie frame off repair made much of this happen.

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                            • Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
                              When repairing rust and rot on my '39 Chev coupe, I think it was 5 or 6 times I said to myself I finally got it all. Then I'd be working on suspension, drivetrain, or something else, and I'd see a hole(s) staring me in the face, and have to change directions and go back to sheet metal repair.
                              Of course not having the room to do a rotisserie frame off repair made much of this happen.
                              Same thing with bodywork , just when you think you’ve got it all …….

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                              • Originally posted by langleylad View Post

                                Same thing with bodywork , just when you think you’ve got it all …….
                                The hardest part of body work is knowing when to stop. It's SO easy to sand off just a TAD too much and have to put on another layer of filler. I do that a lot.

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