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I think you and he share a 'craftsman'
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Doing it all wrong since 1966 -
Having used a dictionary a time or two and having had a discussion many years ago with the tech inspector at Lebanon Valley Speedway over a disagreement over sheetmetal or sheet metal, but not how to parse it, you can use the word(s) either way.
In Webster's at that time it did just like above, had the word as one or the other, as two words. The disagreement? I had used 20 gauge 3003 aluminum sheet stock for everything but the body of the Pinto bodied modified. Paul, the tech guy, upon inspecting the car, says it's not legal, as a magnet won't stick to it, therefore it's not steel, or what he thinks of as sheetmetal, or sheet metal.
In my best imitation of Sheriff Bart, I say, "Wait a minute while I whip this out", and get my old high school Webster's out. With the page already marked, as I knew that I was going to have trouble with tech. Per Webster's, sheetmetal, or sheet metal, any of numerous metals that are malleable and can be formed into thin sheets. The wording in the rule book was not specific as to which of the malleable metals was to be used, hence the reason why I used aluminum.
So the verdict was that it WAS legal, and it was Jim's @$$ if he got burned. And the rule book was updated to specify magnetic sheet steel for the next season, with grandfathered cars allowed.
The car did catch on fire one night and the sheetmetal, or sheet metal, was not damaged, nor was Jim. In fact the only damage was to the oil pressure gauge sending line (cheap plastic shit) and a throttle return spring that was in the flames. And we had our best paying night ever.
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because screw that guy Jim.... drivers are easy to find...Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
Doing it all wrong since 1966Comment
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Jim even said that himself. Drivers are a dime a dozen was his version. I tried a few times, then had to tell my mom that there was a problem with the steering. Of course it was the connection between the seat and the steering wheel. Then to continue the story, I had to pull the steering box out, and do something to it.Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
because screw that guy Jim.... drivers are easy to find...
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Got back on the B yesterday, welding in the floor and castle section (still no idea why they named it that). Three days off because a cold caught me but back in business now.Comment
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Something worth a report:
The bottom is all welded in place. I still have more welding on top and in the wheel wells but at least the bottom is in place. Note that the left side jacking point is now in place, a nifty bit of fabrication. When I'm done with this post I'll head on out and burn more metal.
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This is a bit different from the right side so I'll post it. On the right there was a nearly new inner sill that was about 2/3 length so it didn't require as much spot weld drilling to remove as the rear section could stay in place. On the left it needed a full-length inner sill so I had at it. You can see how much had to be drilled apart. Here's a pic of that area welded back in place: The remaining hole is the outside seat belt bolt anchor.
And I finished off the front end of the sill assembly differently on this side - I think either method is fine. Here, instead of welding in patches to fill the gaps between the new metal and the old stuff I made a plate to cover the whole area and plug welded the end of the castle section to the back of the home made plate - those are the 4 plug welds. You can also see where I had to add a patch to fill in from good old metal to the new floor panel as this side was a bit worse.
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More on the left side:
Rust in seemingly weird places. This is the side of the driver's footwell area, where the "notch" at the rear of the engine bay attaches to the footwell. These cars are evidently prone to windscreen (windshield here in the USA) leaks and if not attended to will eventually rot out areas below the point of water entry. Mine is seriously perforated at the base where the windscreen bolts to the body (that's a repair for a day or two) which is , no doubt, one of the reasons the floor on the left was more rotted than the right. Anyhow, it also allowed water into the footwell area and rusted the connection between the footwell and the afore-mentioned notch in the engine bay (think, the top of the firewall is notched to hold the brake booster, etc.).
I could see a rust dimple and when cut away this was revealed: Here I had already worked in a couple of flanges to rosette weld the end of the notch to the footwell.
And finished. I found a bit more rust so I added the small patch toward the front of the car - it's neverending!
Another tough weld: I kept spinning the car to get the best possible access to stitch weld the inside of the floor repair. It doesn't get easy but I did find doable. I still have to do the outside stitch welds but the inside is good enough.
Last edited by DanStokes; December 3, 2022, 09:00 PM.Comment
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Looking good! Nice progress.
And an MGB is huge compared to a Mini. And I am considerably the larger of the two of us
. And add in a rollcage as well. The Whatever project is starting to look like a good choice in comparison...
I'll be loading the Mini on the trailer for you... when do you want to get started on your British rust repair business?Comment
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It's gonna be a while. I figure a year or more 'till the B is a car. But then I'll weld it up for you.Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View PostLooking good! Nice progress.
And an MGB is huge compared to a Mini. And I am considerably the larger of the two of us. And add in a rollcage as well. The Whatever project is starting to look like a good choice in comparison...
I'll be loading the Mini on the trailer for you... when do you want to get started on your British rust repair business?Comment
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I may take you up on that! Unless it becomes Sonny...Comment
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And the interesting thing about that would be I have a narrow quick change rear axle that would actually tuck the tires under the rear quarters, with a slight flair. Could probably get away with about a 3 inch flair. And Dan, we could stretch the front fenders to get a 100 inch wheelbase, instead of the stock 80.Originally posted by Captain View Post
Project Ideas ......
And if I were to design my own frame and suspension to do something like that I'd use the Mini Cooper front hubs and carriers, and design an independent front suspension. Captain, I think we're coming up with a plan!
I wonder how a windshield could be cut out to have a place for the scoop for the Hilborns. Hmmm!
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One more question: what is the minimum wheelbase for an NHRA gasser?Comment
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