If the leak is factory installed, why can't the extra bolts be?
Blaahaahaa
Why Not ?
I found a Duck Bill ViseGrips inside a body panel on a car that was from when they were spot welding it. It even went thru the Primer Dip tank at the Body Line......
got a load of parts today... start installing them.
first, the tube inserts
next eyeball the upper control arms
one of the big problems of the Ford control arm system is you cannot get a lot of adjustment of caster. The angle isn't really a problem (the lower arm angle) because there's plenty of caster already (5 degrees at rest) thus when you compress the suspension, it actually puts more caster in the system which tends to make the car want to go even straighter (the more caster, the harder effort it takes to turn the wheel - thus that 'centered' feel people talk about with cars that cruise). Of course, the opposite is that it also makes your turning circle larger the more caster you put into the car at rest
In this case I'm putting enough adjustment in place that I could raise the truck another 4 or so inches and still have plenty of caster adjustment..... but that's what takes so long here, making sure the theory actually happens IRL
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 6, 2022, 08:32 AM.
not sure why I ordered 3/4" fastener stuff, but it's here and it's easy enough to drill larger holes
tacked
time to change the panhard mount
chop chop
yellow marks are where I'll give it a bit of a bend to clear
TREs are my bane. some of ... no, all of, the TREs are wrong for one reason or another.... so tomorrow I'll go buy more... or drive to Portland to get my forklift...
the problem of getting the wrong parts.... explanation - the tie rod end was for the wrong truck, and smaller.... the bigger one is the right one, but now it interferes with the panhard mount...
Parallel? Also, I could be a little dense but I don't understand how side-to-side roll is accommodated with what are essentially ladder bars on both sides. Just stuff I had to deal with on the Chero which is pretty close to this with the exception of a single "ladder-bar" near the middle then stock-style side links pivoted on each end.
Parallel? Also, I could be a little dense but I don't understand how side-to-side roll is accommodated with what are essentially ladder bars on both sides. Just stuff I had to deal with on the Chero which is pretty close to this with the exception of a single "ladder-bar" near the middle then stock-style side links pivoted on each end.
the point of keeping the bars parallel is they tend to travel side-to-side in the same amount as the suspension cycles. Otherwise, as the vehicle leans more, it either starts to understeer or oversteer... or if you hit a bump while going around a corner.... granted, it can be different (after all, it is on the FJ40) and the steering issue isn't terribly noticable. The other time it is noticeable is when you matt the throttle.... because they're on different arcs, you have to let go of the steering wheel to continue going straight.... that is an issue with the '40... but I have the parts to fix that so somewhere in here will be that post on the '40 blog...
clutch pedals... there are people who want more for just the d&*m pedal then I've paid for entire, running trucks... WilcoTangoFoxtrot?!!!!!
this is why the gm440 4 spd ( actually a cast iron A833 hemi trans with the 3rd cluster flipped and shift lever reversed,
so it shifts 1-2-4-3 with 4th at 1 to1 and 3rd overdriven...) is still sitting on a pallet. the guy i got it from pulled everything-
tcase, trans, x member, shifter, bellhousing, both driveshafts- EXCEPT the pedal setup. now guess which part of the
swap is the most expensive and hardest to find.....................................
this is an alternative too, but again its ridiculously expensive to me..
I meant, tie rods and track bars are normally designed to be positioned parallel, the ones in the photo don't appear to be and will give you some bump steer, but all good if you're good.
Last time I did a tie rod I stuck a second piece of tubing inside before bending for some extra stiffness, worked pretty well. Recall we broke a stock track bar once, could have been disastrous.
I might have a clutch pedal set in the barn, have to look.
Last edited by Loren; December 12, 2022, 08:25 AM.
clutch pedals... there are people who want more for just the d&*m pedal then I've paid for entire, running trucks... WilcoTangoFoxtrot?!!!!!
I don't know about first gens but second gen, if that clutch pedal is already removed it's worth 10x what it's worth still in the truck. Hint - the labor you don't spend on that one bastard magically unreachable mounting bolt. I swear it's the first thing they bolt in the interior before anything else goes into the truck. Kind of like that one blower cover bolt in third gen C10's that never gets reinstalled after you do a heater core.
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