Red 95 GTS - Just Another Turbo Mustang

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Exhaust changes are done!

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First drive. 3 feet.

Also, last night I finally figured out what the knocking noise was. It's the tensioner bottoming on it's stop. I ran across a thread from 2005 on the Corral describing the exact sound I was chasing. I knew it was coming from the FEAD, but didn't know where. A shorter belt was their fix.

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First real drive!!

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Car ran fine around the parking lot. No leaks, no drips, no problems. I logged the data and rolled into the throttle once. It made 8psi real easy at 4000 rpm. AFR was pretty lean so I didn't stay in the throttle. I'll look at that area and fatten it up.

Idle is good, but idle in gear is surgy. I think it's just too lean when in gear.

The front tire rubs the charge pipe if you turn hard to the left. I will probably need to address that since it it rubbing the silicone elbow.

Overall though, I am stoked for a successful first drive!! It sounds awesome and makes all the right noises!!

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Drove it more today. I fixed the surging idle. I need to put a catch can on it. The valve cover vent I added pukes oil on the valve cover and header.

Still working on the tune in boost. I logged it, modified the tune, then went to crank it up and the battery wasn't having it. It's charging now. Engine temp is good. It stays right at 190 even when sitting still in the shop.

I am also going to try to change the charge tube to get it away from the front tire.

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I massaged the charge tubes around a bit, I think they will be fine now. I also discovered that the front tire was hitting the MAP sensor connector! I didn't think the tire would get that close to where I mounted it. I am 99% sure that was the rubbing noise I was hearing. I relocated it up higher in the fender well, well out of harm's way.

I also found a socket what was a still stuck on a bolt head under there.

The power steering lines or the rack is leaking. Great.

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Found a suitable location for a catch can/ breather tank whatever you want to call it. I dropped it in just in front of the core support on the passenger side. It really worked out better than I expected. I also poked the fender liner back in and swapped the fuel pressure gauge to one that maybe works better. The one that was in there was pretty bouncy and hard to read. Maybe this one will be better (fluid filled).

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Drove it more today and I am creeping up on the tune. Still a little lean when cold.

Got froggy with it a little and popped a charge tube off. Haha

I didn't know it was off until I was looking at the datalog and noticed that boost went to nothing.

Looked around and yep, it was off. I have no idea why it came off. I've never had an issue with it in the past. Maybe I just didn't have the clamp on straight and tight.

Of course, it was inside the fender liner I just put back in. Blah. I feex.

[DanStokes]

Back in my EPA dyno testing days we sometimes had charge pipe issues. Some of the Diesels run pretty high boost and after trying several fixes we eventually came up with welding washers just past the area where the boot sits and running a turnbuckle across the joint. Works great and we never lost one again. If you can't finish a test because of some failure or other it's EXPENSIVE so we needed a really positive fix and that was it.

[BBR]

Okay that could have been bad.

Here's your friendly reminder to always check fuel line fittings for leaks after you've messed with something.

I replaced the fuel pressure gauge but didn't check it for leaks. I took a test drive a couple of days ago and didn't notice anything. But today as I was working on the idle tune in gear, a whiff of something caught my eye. I quickly got out of the car and realized that fuel was spraying from the gauge fitting.

It's sprayed a lot of fuel and I'm lucky it only bubbled the intake paint and didn't catch on fire.

So double check for leaks anytime your monkeying with fuel!!

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Drove it around some more and logged it. No matter what numbers I plug into the tune, I can't get it to stop going lean under boost. It is ok-ish up to 6 psi, but once you hit 8, it just starts trending lean.

If you will remember, the car had a problem with fuel pressure dropping at WOT. Jake replaced the fuel pump with a cheapy Rockauto pump and that worked fine for it N/A, but it is definitely not enough for a boosted application.

Looking at poking an Aeromotive 340 lph in it. They are fairly inexpensive and should cure the problem. The next problem is I don't have the key to the trunk.....or the doors for that matter.

[DanStokes]

The next problem is I don't have the key to the trunk.....or the doors for that matter.

You probably know this but I'll toss it out there for general knowledge:

If you pop out one of the locks and take it t o a real locksmith they can make you a key. I'm guessing that car is too old to have its key codes on file anymore - but again a locksmith will know that.

Interesting side note along that line - The MGB door and trunk locks get so funky that they won't work anymore and it's a common enough problem that Moss offers a set with 2 door locks, a trunk lock, and keys.

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Jake has the key.... somewhere.....

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I was all set to order a 255LPH pump from Summit, but decided to check Rockauto first. Boom. They had a Carter 255 for $54. Yep.

Originally I was going to go to a 340lph pump, but Aeromotive's instructions strongly recommend using a dedicated 10 gauge wire for power. I did some looking and 340's seem to be a little overkill for the stock fuel lines and rails. Most of the threads I read suggested using a 255. Guys were making 550+hp wheel HP with stock lines and rails with a 255. Stock pump is 88, so we should have plenty of volume.

Also, I think I figured out a way to get into the trunk, where the Jake installed fuel pump access hole is located!

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Got the trunk open!