Originally posted by Captain
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I’d give you 10 thumbs up. If I could! That needs a blown HEMI on fuel. And zoomies! Don’t forget the chop. About 4 inches should do. And bright yellow. I like yellow… -
Interesting things are a Happen' Here in the Tall Timber Country of AREA BFE in the Iron Triangle.
I'm am going over Jeep Soup for this summer's "Steve's Great 4x4 Challenge Adventure" in June.
Jeep Soup after you ran it for a while, it would loose power, and if you went to WOT,
it would bog worse. And if you brought it back to about 3/4 throttle, it would run a little better. Suspecting Vapor Lock, moved the fuel lines, bought a Heat Shield Plate,
and it was a little better, just took longer to act up.
Thinking, ya know, this Carburetor has never been opened up since we bought it.
Ordered a Master Carter WO rebuild kit.
Jeep Soup is 75 plus years old !! And to think that nobody else has had a chance at messing with the Carburetor would be a FOOL !
The Master Rebuild Kit came with EXCELLENT picture, step by step, instructions!! Copies of a 1945 Military Field Repair supplement.
Also it was Great that the Kit had extra parts for all the upgrades over the years,
and ALL the right size jets for different upgrades.
OH, Yeah !!!! Some "Farmer Repairs" had been done. ALL the jets had Screw Slot Damage, and two needed a little extra attention to extract them.
So here is two pictures,
One after preliminary cleaning before going into the Carburetor Cleaning Solvent and the completed rebuild.
But I will need to do a Parts Safari and check out one of my favorite Salvage Yards that has old "STUFF".
It is Missing this Throttle Pull Off, or and in this drawing a Choke Linkage.
Like I said, 75 plus years of previous Monkey Mechanics.
Last edited by Captain; January 9, 2026, 06:42 AM.👍 1Comment
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Then another Enlightenment!! When I removed the Carb and Heat Shield Plate, on the bottom of the Heat Shield Plate, there was a Very Small Black Carbon Witness Mark !! Even Ray Charles could have seen it !!
I have an Exhaust Gasket Leak, and it is blowing up between the Intake Manifold "Hot House" and the Exhaust Manifold, right into the Carburetor Base.
So, Oh Happy Happy Joy Joy, I can now remove a 75 plus year old manifold.
I order Intake and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, and a Heat Riser Kit, and while they are on their way, I soak ALL the bolts on the manifold.
Jeep Soup was in the lower barn for i it's winter Hibernation...... So I drafted a few of my Rusty Iron Junkies to help move it into the shop. Everything went good except a Heads Up, military Omnidirectional Tires are Worthless on Snow and Ice !! All it had to do was roll forward. Nope, sliding side to side, but finally got it into the shop.
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Once inside, tested the first Manifold to Block Nut and Stud. It broke loose, but the entire stud is turning out.
Pump the Brakes here guys.....
Drain the Coolant, as these Studs go into the Water Jacket. While that's draining, started removing everything else from the manifold.
Swung the Fuel line out of the way, removed the PCV tube and valve.
Good news the PCV valve is NOT Stuck !!
They are available new but "Call First for Current Pricing" they are trading on the Free Market Gold Price of the Day.....
The Exhaust Pipe Flange, the first Bolt came out with just a little Hot Wrench Pre Heat. Now, the rear bolt has been modified to a Straight Through Nut and Bolt.
Pre Heated it, and Monkey Handled the Wrench on, ......
But the Bolt Head is kinda hard to get at with the Steering Box and Oil Pump in the way. Well, this is where I left off. It was late, and I am Nursing a Sinus Head Cold.
Plan A;
Next trip out to the shop, going to get ALL Those Fancy tools you buy Just for instances like this. Six sided sockets, Universal Joined extensions, Wobbly Ratchet Extensions, and a Big Breaker Bar.
And see if we can get it to break loose.
Plan B;
Mini Sawzall....
Last edited by Captain; January 9, 2026, 07:40 AM.👍 1Comment
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4 days later after taking care of in the house duties and this sinus head cold...
I felt good enough to get out to the shop today.
Letting penetrating oil set 4 days that rear exhaust pipe flange bolt came right out.
Now the rest of the Manifold Nuts were all Brass. Only that first one was Steel, and pulled the stud out with it.
BUT doing things the Right Way, start on the Outside and Work In on Removing heads and manifolds, ......
As I started in the next set of inner stud nuts, the rear most stud is weeping coolant. So after getting the manifold off, removed all but 3 of the Studs using the "Double Nut" method. The 3 that were not budging, I quit before breaking them off, and they were definitely not leaking any coolant. After cleaning all the threads, will put sealant on them during reassembly.
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Here is the Manifold on the Work Bench.
And a Close Up of the Black Carbon exhaust leak.
(Note the Spent Rifle Cartridge Casing
heat riser shaft Bushing and Seal. I bought a complete heat riser Kit that includes new bushings)
Tomorrow I should feel well enough to go on a Parts Safari to get that "Choke Link", a Replacement Dip Stick, this one the spacer washer half way down it is just about to fall off, and another couple of things.
It is to be Unusually Warm again !!
Almost 40° FLast edited by Captain; January 13, 2026, 05:07 AM.👍 1Comment
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Oh to have such a simple vehicle! Got to love the fact that you can not only see the parts, but also get your hands on them without having to remove a bunch of useless crap that has nothing to do with the operation of the vehicle only with the appearance. And room for pulling stuff off without having to take other components off just to make clearance Clarence!
I should get myself one of those. My first road worthy vehicle was a CJ5. Of course I blew up the F-head and instead of replacing it, swapped it out for a small block Chevy. 4 engines later I had one that actually lasted! But still it had lots of room to work on it.Comment
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Today,
First Parts Safari......
Basically a Bust !! Evidently Jeeps have become into a Rage Lately !! My old Jeep grave yard salvage spot has been Raided almost CLEAN !!
The Yard owner told me in the last 24 months, all his Jeep Parts are flying out of his place. One guy bought EVERY L Head 4, and F Head 4 carburetor, in pieces or not
last spring.
Did get some parts down in Portage that I ordered.
So when I got back, started taking the manifold apart.
SURPRISE !!
Yes I have been soaking the Carb Stove Heater bolts with PB Blaster since I started, but I did not expect them to come out with No Compound Cussing or getting the Oxy Acetylene torch out. Not saying it didn't take a Breaker bar to get them started,
One Squawk and they turned out.
It is easy to see where the gasket has burnt out. And the exhaust manifold side surface has rust pits.
And the Bad News, the Intake Carb Stove Base is not going to seal up either. Two things. There is a original "Casting Core Shift" tapering the wall thickness, and it is not Flush all the way across on one side.
Both pieces have to go to the Machine Shop and get Fly Cut to match up.
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I did order a Heat Riser Butterfly kit and just cut the old one out.
I'm sure most of you know, but some Apprentice is looking,
Put Cutting Oil on the cutting spot if you can. You will be Amazed at How FAST the cut will be done. A little bit added during deeper cuts.
And I sure I posted before about my "Farmer Fix" on the rear side Heat Rizer Shaft leaking exhaust profusely, by using a Spent Rifle Cartridge Casing as a Bushing and Plug.
Shaft .30......and 30-30 Casing.
The bottom of the Shell Casing was K for close to the missing Shaft Bushing, but it needed to be able to rotate too. So we reduced the exhaust fumes my 97%
So tomorrow's mission is to drop off the Manifolds, on the way to the Sign Shop and pick the Camper Compartment Door.
(I will save that story why It took so long to get that done......)
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Another issue is that as long as I have owned this Jeep, it has Drawn Oil up the Air Tube from the Air Cleaner. (It is a Oil Bath Style Cleaner)
Did some research and investigated the existing parts of my engines oil vapor systems.
First, I have mentioned that the PCV tube, valve and connectors were not plugged and the valve is not stuck.
Second, looking at Jeep site posts on this same issue, one was there is a Washer on the Dipstick to work as a Baffle and "Centering" guide to hit the hole in the Cast Block at the bottom of the Fill Tube.
It is Missing on my Dipstick. And Did Not find a replacement on my Parts Safari.
So, a shop made one is coming.
Third, there is a Rubber Tube and Clamp
That is to be on the Air Tube just before the air horn that 95% of the Jeep previous owners just don't replace. (It is a Forced Fit, so when it wears out, why try to get it apart to replace it) I will install one.
Fourth, in this research, there was a EXCELLENT Post on converting the
Existing Oil Bath Filter to a
Paper Cartridge and yet retain
The Oil Bath canister assembly.
Which I did.
AND discover that the Filter Insert on mine is Missing !! Fig. 1 letter G
And here is what I removed from the Canister that a Previous Owner installed.
Fig. 2
Now here is the Posted Fix to change to a Paper Element. It is so simple and stock available parts !!
Fig. 3-6
You will have to remove the foam ring and cut the ears off the Blue Toilet Seal before installing, but it Fits Perfectly !!
Fig. 7-8
Hopefully this has solved this issue.Last edited by Captain; January 16, 2026, 04:29 PM.👍 1Comment
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Next was with the Intake and Exhaust Manifold out, it was So Easy to Adjust the Valves!!! And ALL were out of Adjustment, especially No. 2 cylinder Intake. Found my "Clacker" !!
(If you notice, No.2 intake Is right behind the exhaust pipe....hmmm)
Side Cover, PCV tube Assembly, and Air Cleaner parts were all getting a bath in the solvent tank, while this was going on.
Last edited by Captain; January 15, 2026, 05:25 AM.👍 1Comment
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Now that Valves are done and off the Punch Card, put "Honda RTV Sealant" on the manifold to block studs and replaced them.
And to conclude a Good Day, finished cleaning up the Side Cover and Parts, sent them to the Paint Department and gave them a Fresh Coat of Gloss Back.
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