BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)

[CDMBill]

Nice to see progress and the youngin's helping get things done. Strange has nice thread on sleeves that locate the wheel off the threads when you are running taper seat lug nuts instead of drive stud washers and nuts. They will keep the wheel nice and square and not create thread-like witness marks on the wheel's flange.

You are on the "list", N/A to boot, so that's cool.

[Russell]

This is full of win! I look ford to your evaluation of the spool!

[BBR]

Thanks Bill, I'll check out those sleeves.

The spool won't be much different than the diff that is in it now. I have that sucker shimmed so tight it really acts like a spool anyway.

I am impressed with those Motive 28 spline axles. They look great after all these years. I suppose foot brake launches *are* a bit easier on them though.

[SuperBuickGuy]

BBF on an 8.8 FTW!

you know, your next weak point are the caps, right? I know I'm good at spending your money but perhaps something in a more girdle-like cover would be in order?

[BBR]

Yeah probably, but I'm not going to start worrying about that until this turd starts 60 footing on the 1.30's. Which will probably be never.

[SuperBuickGuy]

best of all I can be the 'told you so' when it goes pop ;)

[Dignlif]

wow on the list and n/a no less, killer. very cool that he moved you from just looking/ planning to actually doing.

[BBR]

A certain little helper keeps telling me I need a 150 shot of N2O and a transbrake........ haha I keep telling him, "I'M ON A BUDGET"!!!!!!

[SuperBuickGuy]

flip the angel off your other shoulder then ftw!

[Scott Liggett]

I am curious to what you have to do to your wheels to go so big on your wheel studs.

[BBR]

Pretty much nothing. The holes in these wheels (intended for 1/2" studs) are so big, the 5/8" studs slide right through them. You've got to keep them pretty straight putting the wheels on though because they won't slide on if they are cockeyed. The tapered seats look to be plenty big for these lugnuts as well.

[Scott Liggett]

I am thinking of long, 1/2" studs for my 12 bolt....when I get around to putting it together. But, I was worried about my wheels.

[BBR]

I wasn't real happy with the pattern on the gears, so I pulled it back apart and monkeyed with it Saturday. After several tries I fiiiiiiiinally got a pattern I was happy with. I hate pressing the pinion bearing on/off. I always feel like I'm going to hork it up. Only thing left to do is to weld the arb tabs on and it will be ready to put in the car.

What do you do if your solid pinion spacer is a hair too thick? You hone it with your boot on the concrete floor of course. Haha


Judd learning to use a micrometer measuring pinion spacer shims.

On the ignition upgrade front, I have been flip-flopping about how to set it all up. The current thought is the MS1, 36-1 wheel, Ford VR sensor, [some sort of vr conditioner], EFI Source Ignitor and Pantera coils. What to use as a VR conditioner is the current hangup. There are some available, just need to choose one and go with it I suppose.

[TheSilverBuick]

To weigh costs, my Skylark and Firebird both use the GS100502 hall sensor. It's $27 and requires no conditioner, just a resistor pull up circuit. A 1k Ohm resistor between the +12v power supply and signal wire. Unfortunately isn't off the shelf, so I carry a spare, but one has been on the Skylark since 2011.
http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/pa...7-series/23162

[BBR]

Hall effect sensor, eh? Then that is certainly the way to go. As I am still learning about this stuff, I though all crank sensors used with a toothed wheel were VR.

Thanks Randal!