BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)

[BBR]

Good news: MS powered up in the car. No smoke.

Bad news: my usb-serial adapter which used to work with this lap top when it was Win7, does not work now that I "upgraded" to Win10.

[Beagle]

Just a guess since I don't have a USB-Serial device to look at, but I remember seeing this and the PC was overrunning the MS or buffer settings were changeable.. saw a couple of things when I did a search. Did you do the USB to Com port adapter settings goofiness ? Also a thread from MSFT about Windows 10 -> 7 driver USB to Serial downgrades that fixed some folks:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-hardware/prolific-usb-to-serial-comm-port-windows-10/0a4f8e48-7135-4434-9d10-349c9ce87fcf?auth=1

http://www.symtechlabs.com/support/k...r_connectivity Choosing the Correct Settings

1. Select the “Port Settings.”
2. Enter the following settings:

Bits per second:	9600	115200
Data bits:	8
Parity:	None
Stop bits:	1
Flow control:	None

1. Click “Advanced…”
2. Ensure the “Use FIFO buffers” checkbox is checked.
3. Drag the sliders corresponding to the “Receive Buffer” and “Transmit Buffer” to their lowest positions, either “0” or “1.”
4. Ensure the “COM Port Number” is set to “COM1.”

• If COM1 is marked as “in use,” take the following steps.
  • If your computer has a built-in serial port, assign the adapter to an unused COM port. Please note, however, that you should not require the use of a USB-serial adapter at all. In fact, you may find using an adapter more difficult if your computer has a standard serial port. Please see our article on serial port connectivity for directions on configuring a built-in serial port.
  • If there is another device in the “Ports (COM & LPT)” list set to COM1, follow the above mentioned steps in this section and reassign it to another number. Make a note of the new port for this device. Assign your USB-serial adapter to COM1.
  • If there are no other devices in the “Ports (COM & LPT)” list set to COM1, assign your USB-serial adapter to COM1 and ignore any subsequent warnings.

[BBR]

Thanks computer-guru Beagle. It is totally the driver error. Delete driver, it reloads a new one, same thing.

I am going to try this fix http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.html today. It seems to take care of the issue in one fell swoop.

[TheSilverBuick]

What tach do you have? From my understanding, pretty much only domestic OEM tachs from the '70's and older are that way. More modern tach's (any aftermarket unit built in the last 20 years) can take a variety of signals, digital or coil "-". I would at least try it before building something.

The tach on the Mustang is a high voltage tach (12v), originally driven off the coil. So I have to make a small circuit with diodes that is tapped into the 4 high voltage (12v) spark leads (from the driver to the coils) to generate a single tach signal. Not hard, just one more thing to do. Haha.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1114715[/ATTACH]

[BBR]

Stock tach. Don't know if it will work with a low voltage input or not. Really, the circuit to make is only 5 diodes. One to each of the four (-) sides of the coils, then to the zener and on to the tach lead. With MS-1extra, it looks like I would have to build something either way and this is probably the most simple.

[BBR]

I feex.


I think I have all the settings correct now in the MS. The Spark Settings page in Tuner Studio is the only one I am iffy about. The only thing on there that I am certain I know what does is the "Spark Output Inverted" box. lol

I guess I need to read more!

Ok, Trigger Angle and Trigger Angle Addition make sense now.

Cranking Timing: What do you guys use? Trigger Return or Timing Based?

[BlueCuda340]

I don't recall that particular setting on mine offhand, I do know I use 10* of timing during cranking.

[BBR]

I'm about 95% done with the wiring. Harmonic balancer will be here today so I can finish up the front of the motor.

MS mounted in radio slot.


Better shot of the 36-1 and Cherry hall sensor.

[TheSilverBuick]

Looks good! I didn't know you used the OE tach, neat! I crank both my cars at 5º. Not sure what "trigger return is", and MS3 firmware just asks what you want it to be. I know at one time I had used the main Spark table and just had the upper left corner set to real low timing values.


(Isn't there supposed to be a washer on both sides of the sensor?!?!? )

[BBR]

Washers: I was running out of threads on the backside!

[BBR]

Whoo Hoo!!! We have spark, rpm (in Tuner Studio), and10 degrees of advance when cranking!! I did not try to start it tonight since it is late and since I would probably have been eaten alive by mosquitoes if I opened the garage.

Balancer came in today. It is a nice looking piece. Pulley took some massaging to get on because it fit waaay too tight on the balancer snout. But other than that, everything went back together smoothly.

Now I just need to make this tach circuit and I'll be able to use the stock tach again.

[TheSilverBuick]

Nice!!

[Deaf Bob]

Happy neighbors = happy wife = happy home...

Here, I get the pooleece called on me if I as much drag a chain out the back of my flatbed

[BBR]

Everything look ok with these settings?





Just double checking.

[TheSilverBuick]

The software is sooooo old I'm not 100% sure on many of the settings, but I'd drop your cranking dwell down to 4.0 and spark dwell to 3.5, and if you experience spark break up bump it back up, but I'm thinking you won't have an issue at those settings.

The issue at risk is overheating the coils with too much dwell, and more dwell is added when the voltage drops, so starting at 6.0 and adding some seems like a lot to me. I'm no master tuner, but can't imagine a NA engine needing much over 3.5ms, especially with those coils. I also use 1.0 for the discharge period, which is what the "help" icon recommends in the newer software.