depends on how much load the bar is trying to counter act? Would short the arms off of soft bar, not work the same as long arms off a stiffer bar?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)
Collapse
X
Collapse
-
-
That is probably the best reason to go with one of the well known manufacturers of these kinds of parts, TRZ, Wolfe etc. They have gone through the trial and error R&D process and sometimes time really is money. The triangulated four link cars really benefit from a drag race specific ARB when the torque numbers get into BBR's range. Done right it can be two tenths or more depending on how much power is being wasted on deflecting bushings, differentially loading the slicks and twisting the car diagonally. At which point its a cheap ET reduction compared to a lot of other parts.
Beags' picture is exactly what we are talking about.Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?
Comment
-
I am kinda playing with the idea of maybe putting an ARB in it.
I have a used Wild Rides S-box that I'd like to install as well.
Like this:
Maybe instead of pulling the motor and trans and farting with that stuff (and since the car just ran it's best ET ever). I'll pull the rear end, install the S-box and maybe put an ARB in it. I need to rebuild the factory Trac-lok anyway as it is starting to go away and it's waaaaaaaay easier to do that when the rear end is out. The air bags will stay however, because it needs them to keep the tires from rubbing when the trailer and car are loaded heavy.
I inquired on 429-460.com about maybe making a camshaft change to exploit my cylinder heads better, but really got no useful input. "Bigger and wider" really does not help me and I'm always a little leery of taking cam recommendations from guys that normally build engines that run at lower altitudes. I'd hate to spend the $$ on a cam that works great at sea level, but is a dog when the DA is 8000'. So, I think I may leave the motor alone for now and concentrate on making it 60' quicker and *maybe* getting it work on the drag radials. I would love to have it 60 consistently in the low 1.40's or even high 1.30's. In Noble it was going 1.48 60's and has gone 1.50 in Amarillo.
Incremental upgrades!Last edited by BBR; October 22, 2013, 12:25 PM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
Comment
-
Sounds like a good plan - so that box reinforces the entire floor area where the upper control arms mount?
Does it go in from the top and surround the existing or do you cut out what's there and replace it entirely?There's always something new to learn.
Comment
-
You cut out the existing UCA mount 'plate', which is just essentially a piece of sheet metal spot welded to the floor pan. Then you bolt or weld this to the floor pan. It gives you a couple of options for the UCA mounting points to change the rear geometry if necessary.
I decided more power is really useless without better chassis control.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
Comment
-
I'm a HUGE fan of Maximum Motorsports for Mustang chassis stuff. They are both wildly skilled and practical. I have their Panhard bar and Heim joint lowers on mine and they work GREAT. It also kept the Drag Radials out of the outer wheel wells. They suggest a stock upper and Heim joint lowers - or did when I bought mine.
Anyhow, it would be worth giving them a call.
Dan
Comment
-
Last edited by BBR; October 22, 2013, 08:48 AM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
Comment
-
3 holes for the upper front mounting point..... I like.
Getting that instant center somewhere IN the car will make a remarkable difference. Good thing the bracing will be added at the same time, this added force is what breaks the upper brackets.
This car just gets better and better!Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
Comment
-
There will a couple tenths in the DR's too, but the learning curve can be daunting, not to mention the cost of decent double adjustable shocks that really help with getting a high torque DR car to work well.
I like reinforced box concept. I'm going down that road soon and will start with chassis.Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?
Comment
-
I actually had some time to work on the car this weekend. Since I hate to bleed brakes, I did my usual 'pull the axles pop off the brakes and reinstall axles' routine. Dumped about a cup of gear oil on the driveway... boo.
Anyway, I inspected the Motive 28 spline axles that are in the car. They really look great, no twist at all.
Removing the existing UCA mounts is probably going to be this biggest PITA on this project. There are a gazillion spot welds under there. I'm really going back and forth about welding vs. bolting the S-Box in. It was bolted in the car it was previously installed in and I think that would be plenty secure. It would also allow for it's removal should the need ever arise.
Since the diff is out, I am also considering swapping back to the 3.90's. My current thinking however is I need to gear this big thing more like a turbo car and let the torque of the motor do it's thing, so I might just leave the 3.55's in there. The 3.90's might bump my trap rpm too high.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
Comment
-
Ymmv!!!Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
Comment
-
I actually tried that and there was no ridge at all.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
Comment
Comment