BBR's 83GT - turbo 302.... now with EFI!

[BBR]

Ok, switched to a different channel on the coil igniter and it only buzzes if the MS and coil are on but the igniter is not. Once I turn the key, the igniter gets power and the buzzing stops. If the igniter and the coil were on the same circuit, it would never buzz.

I managed to make a vid of the stutter I am chasing. It starts at about 1-3 psi. After I made this, I moved the coil wire so that it is now well away from the TFI and wiring. I have not driven it since because I had to leave.

I started thinking of it as a stutter and that opened up a whole new set of google results. Some caused by too much fuel and some caused by electrical noise, like a coil wire being too close to sensitive wiring.

[BBR]

And another one just for fun.

[BBR]

One thing I never did when changing the main body of this carburetor is to set the air bleeds back to match the original 650 main body. Literally I just used whatever air bleeds I had available in the shop to get it close. This sorta worked, but I decided to buy some brass set screws and put the exact sizes in. It was really pointless on my part to try and tune a carb with air bleeds in it that were "just what I had".

I used my bits to check the holes in the old 4777-7 650 main body. The bleeds in it are not adjustable.

Primary Idle AB = 79
Primary Main AB = 33
Secondary Idle AB = 63
Secondary Main AB = 33

I took the brass set screws and chucked them into the drill and used my little vice grips and pin vise (for the tiny ones) to hold the bits. Worked great.

I hope I can find some time this weekend to put them in and test drive it.

[BBR]

Swapped air bleeds and drove it around the parking lot yesterday. It was not a change for the better. The stutter seemed to be worse. This makes me think it is a lean transition condition. WOT afr was the same which makes sense since the main jets did not change. Next tuning change is to move to a 10.5 power valve to get the power enrichment flowing earlier.

[Russell]

Keep it up you will get it! What's that saying there is a fine line between genius and insanity? I think you're a genius, and it would drive me insane

[BBR]

Keep it up you will get it! What's that saying there is a fine line between genius and insanity? I think you're a genius, and it would drive me insane

I'm only a fuel pump, rails and injectors away from converting this sucker to efi....

[Beagle]

I'm only a fuel pump, rails and injectors away from converting this sucker to efi....

and an intercooler and a pan diaper and 375 feet of wiring and , hey, do you have a wideband on here? Is it telling you anything?

[BBR]

I do, but with the stuttering I'm have not been sure I can trust what it says. It was indicating that it is really rich, but it seemed to run better the more fuel that I throw at it. That got me to thinking maybe the stuttering (misfires) were causing it to read rich. I am trying to ignore it a bit and just go off how it responds. Data is good if it is good data!

I have an EFI harness and the car already has a Megasquirt in it, so the change would not be too big of a deal. Just not super pumped about spending more $$$ on this dumb thing right now. I just want it to run clean enough to make some drag strip passes that are closer to it's potential!

[Russell]

I'm only a fuel pump, rails and injectors away from converting this sucker to efi....

Injectors are the only expensive part of that list. You could go old school sloppy and put some decaps in there.

[BBR]

I have a set of 30's that would probably cover us for the power level we are at, but...... That is a rabbit hole I don't want to go down.....yet

[BBR]

A rabbit hole I did run down was questioning my TFI ignition setup. A comment on the Turboforums got me to wondering is my ignition was triggering off the correct side if the TFI distributor's vane wheel. Because of the signature vane (narrow vane to ID #1 cyl), if you trigger off the wrong side of that vane, the timing for cyl #1 would be correct, but all the others will be wrong. I verified proper operation by checking the timing with my light on cyl #1, then moving the pickup to cyl #6. They were exactly the same, so it is triggering off the proper side.

[Russell]

30's!!!!???? I am worried my 60's will be too small buying new I would not get anything less that 80's I got the 60's used, trying to save a buck.

Used injectors caused me a lot of grief, don't know if I will hoe that row again.

[Beagle]

60's will support enough turbo to ruin the block, and yes, I said that. Keeping in mind there's a big fat fuel pump in there that doesn't have to stay at 40 something pounds for EFI... 60psi and 60's should be plenty to oil down the starting line. :|

I should mention that I think it will need heads to make enough to do any damage. I don't think it's current iteration will let it get hurt too bad.
Stay after that carb, it'll come around.

[cstmwgn]

30s - I thought those were only used for cold start injectors

[DanStokes]

My 'Stang has 24s - a step up from the 19s that came in the 5.0 But with 5.8 hungry mouths to feed I probably can go up a size or two.

Dan