"Lee's Limo" 2001 F350 crew cab 4x4 diesel

[STINEY]

You are probably already closer to one of them anyways! Have at it!

Yeah, I have yet to venture into the LED trailer light world. Probably a good idea on the next build, until then I just grease up all the bulbs and connections with this stuff and it makes a huge difference in keeping the lights working.


And on Beags ramp length thing.....a slight beaver tail (like only an inch or two over a few feet) makes a huge difference in loading. My ramps are only 3' long and I have loaded some pretty low stuff with them, not even close to dragging.

[DanStokes]

I cheated and bought aluminum ramps on the Internet. I'm remembering that they were $200 including shipping a few years ago. The ones that came with the trailer were about 4 feet long and made out of 2" angle - I don't know where they found lead angle iron. Those suckers have to be 70 lb. each, +/- (they're still here if anyone wants some 2" angle - or exercise equipment). The aluminum ones are pretty much a one hand deal. I also ordered them a foot longer which took a little trailer modification but WELL worth it - much better approach angle. I'm remember that it was "Ramps.com" or something like that. I just did a Google search for "trailer ramps" and it was one of the ones that came up.

Dan

[milner351]

Ramps can be a love / hate thing. I smashed my fingers putting Matt's trailer ramps back under the deck the Sunday before DW12, nobody needs a blood blister under a couple nails during drag week.

anyway - Dan - as usual you've come up with a great improvement - I got aluminum folding ramps to load things in and out of the pick up before we made the move to this house they are fantastic.

Angle iron ramps suck - in fact if a trailer came new with them and they didn't have a smooth ramp option (expanded metal, or something) I'd tell them to keep 'em and take some bucks off the sale price.... then I'd build my own.

I think 5 foot ramps are the way to go, and slide under from the back of the trailer (not the side) makes it easier.

These look good:

http://www.discountramps.com/car-trailer-ramps/p/CTR/

Time will tell.

So far I've had two test drives on the truck but not cash in hand, here's the craigslist ad if anyone is interested.

http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/4826153669.html

[DanStokes]

That's where I got my ramps - good find. Unfortunately my cheapie trailer has side ramp storage but that does allow a lower beavertail. With the aluminum ramps it's not a horrible job to install and stow them. BTW, my Load-Trail was the absolute cheapest safe trailer I could find when I bought mine - cost seems always to be an issue for me. When we hit the Lottery.........


Dan

[Deaf Bob]

I've had 4X12 by 4 ft wod ramps.. They were a pain to set up.. Heavy little shits! Love my angle iron "come with" ramps.. Needs a few more angles inbetween.. Side loaded ramps need forethought before you park too close to something! .
I've also used built on ramps that folded up.. They were nice, but hefty and I was forever forgetting to tie them up, down, etc.. Plus they had to have a block in back to keep from hingeing..
I've seen ramps that slide into the back of the trailer.. Looks to be a very cool way to haul them.. If you don't mind sliding them over and stooping under the big azz of a long full sized car.. Plus the trailers with rear storing ramps tend to be a little higher ...
I pull trailers about 2,000 miles a year, minimum..
The tilt deck trailers make it hard to use a winch as the cable tends to pull the front down.
Many derby guys mount a 2" reciever up front and slide a winch up there to pull cars on, and still use the winch for other stuff..

[SuperBuickGuy]

Tractor won't fit on a 16' with the loader and mower attached. Maybe with a gooseneck, but my mileage does vary - different intent. When it gets right down to it, renting a trailer for 200.00 a weekend is a lot cheaper if you're not using it all the time. I use mine quite a bit. If I was smarter, I wouldn't even need it. I lived a long time without one, now it just drags giant crap to the house. It might be easier and cheaper if I'd stop doing that and just rent a u-haul when I need it, but that's not my idea of fun.

If you're on I-35 with a bicycle, I consider you suicidal and the only reason I would give more than a nano-giveashit is I don't want the Karma for running you over. As far as I know, the lower speed limit is 45 mph so I'd have a chance at slowing down or missing you and I'd be impressed if you're going 45 constant. I'm talking about 8 or 9' wide lanes at 70 mph with a 8 foot plus wide trailer. I give my two wheel brethren a lane, but there's really no time for cross lane psychoanalysis at 70 mph.

The guys I see pulled over by commercial enforcement generally look like they deserve it.

Extreme example, getting kitty killer off the trailer (this is a 16') took some creativity.

1) Don't mow
2) I don't do roads without shoulders on my bicycle - it's called "planning your route" what I can't plan for is the inept road crews in King County
3) Duh, and I still argue the ticket
4) I've told you before, if you'd buy Chevies, you wouldn't need a car trailer .... so do tell me, how's that one running now? (I owe you for the nanogiveashits .... lol)

[Beagle]

If I had a Chevy, it wouldn't be worth towing, so there is that. What with the BMW and the Rover and Toyota and the Fiat, you must like towing things... or dragging them around with the skid steer. I'd say my LSC is at least as driveable as the Fiat.

Stiney, my decking starts out at rail height in the front and drops about 2" over maybe 4 feet by the end where the ramp rail is. It helps... I have considered buying longer ramps but my new plan is to stop dragging shit home! Like that's gonna happen. haha. I'd like longer better ramps, but I'm not paying for them. Spurred on by SBG's taunt, now I'm looking for a rollback!

DB -
"I've had 4X12 by 4 ft wod ramps.." - yep, it took two 2x12x8's (SCARY), a bunch of bricks to reinforce them, and some cussing to get the Lincoln off the trailer. I hear you on both the thinking ahead when you park the trailer for the side ramps and the rear facing ramps on a low trailer. The back of mine is pretty low already and with the hitch I have on the F250, it's pointed even lower at the ground. With the Lightning, it wasn't as bad. I have a 4" drop hitch for the F250 but never seem to have it with me when I need it. Downside of having multiple locations and trailers I guess.




I posted this on BBR's page, he did something similar. I like being able to put the winch in the toolbox to keep it out of the weather and out of sight. I REALLY like the tongue box for storing it and the ratchets, wd40, few tools you always seem to need when dragging some POS home.



I haven't done it yet (5 years later) but I keep meaning to put a battery hold down box in front of the toolbox. I end up using the battery for something else all the time though, so it's all good. One thing about a short trailer is the car will come up over the top of the winch a lot of times. Another thing I wanted but haven't done yet is put a boat trailer roller on the end of the trailer because the cable tends to drag.

[Russell]

I found the best way to combat the short ramps is to raise the front of the trailer. My favorite way to do that is drive up ramps under the rear tires.

[milner351]

Great discussion on trailers, lots of thoughts to consider. I think I'm coming to the conclusion that 16 ft is too short, and 20ft may be too long.
I've seen a few 17, and several 18, that seems to be my happy place when considering the wheel bases of stuff I'm most likely to haul, and considering hauling building materials, trusses, decking material, etc.

No money in hand yet for the truck, and I think it's best to to a quick clean and paint to the trailer before trying to sell it. So let's keep the conversation going.
What I find baffling is that some guys are asking less than $500 from the price of new for their used trailers, some very used.

OK - here's another debate....

Wood or steel deck?

[DanStokes]

I like my wood deck but I have no strong preference. The trailer we brought back from CA with the Avanti has a steel deck and it's OK too. But the CA trailer is heavy as lead - not sure how much of that is due to the weight of the deck.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

Wood.... then your treasure doesn't go sliding off....

Beags... lol

[Russell]

The asking price for trailers are all over the place my favorite are the guys that want a grand for a car trailer that needs a new wooden deck, tires, and the brakes and lights don't work but it's a good trailer.

Makes me wonder if instead of replacing the tires its better to sell and by a new or restored trailer

[Deaf Bob]

Wood.... then your treasure doesn't go sliding off....

Beags... lol

Here you have it.. I've got 3 types of decks.. Steel diamond plate, wood and expanded metal.. Expanded mtal is nice to pry the holes open and drop a chain thru, steel deck, id you don't tie it down right (45 appliancesess) a bump or bottom out will start it sliding.. On the 2X6 deck, one of the spacesavers broke thru.. Th kid was trying to get off and the bumper hit the ground. to be honest, some boards were not the greatest on that trailer.. When I replace them, they are getting coated!

[Deaf Bob]

Problem with aluminum decks is stuff gouges it..

[milner351]

Featherweight trailers and the like are just too pricey - nice, and no rust - but, I just couldn't justify the cost - unless a good deal on a good used one could be had.

OK - I'm starting to warm up to the idea of a wood deck, or an open center trailer, that could have wood decking put into the center when needed.