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Wifes Citation II Dune Buggy

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  • I LIKE this thread but don't have much to add as I'm not an off-road/buggy guy. Still an interesting thread.

    Dan

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    • Add me to the interested party list!
      Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
      74 Nova Project
      66 Mustang GT Project

      92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
      79 Chevy Truck Project
      1956 Cadillac Project

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      • I'm back, umm it's back... again. I started working on the buggy engine about a month ago. Over the last few years I found myself either running out of time or money regarding this project. Now I have a little bit of both and decided to take a shot at getting this thing running and driveable once and for all. I split the case apart again and I'm glad I did. The Lubriplate 105 I used gelatinized in/on the bearings and crank journals. Everything was stiff and/or stuck solid in the motor, nothing moved freely. I bought another set of main bearings for it too (long story). I didn't like the way the first set felt and looked and when they went in. This time around I'm using Lucas assembly lube which stays slipperier than snake shit and doesn't gelatinize. I noticed when I took the case and main nuts off some of them didn't feel like they were torqued properly. I'm being more patient and doing stuff a little bit at a time, making sure stuff goes together right the first errr second time yeah..


        Splitting the case:

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        Gelatinized goo...

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        Bought a gun brush kit the clean the holes, worked great!


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        Crank waiting to be de-gelantized..

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        I mean seriously though, I'm German, this engine is German...
        This whole deal should easy-peasy,.. a no brainer right? I'm gonna kick it's ass.
        I'll swear at it in German while eating knockwurst if I have to!

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        • I got the case torn all the way down, and gave it a bath. No I didn't scrub it in the tub, I just gave it a nice hot water rinse.

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          I've been reading up on proper engine case assembly. A VW guy did a write up and said to fit the cam thrust bearing to the cam and check for clearance. Sure enough the bearing was a little tight. He said use some well worn 600 grit sand paper and polish the thrust surfaces of the bearing. That worked like a charm, the bearing fits perfect now. The same guy also recommended putting the cam in the case by itself and torquing the portion of the case where the cam lives to check for binding. I did that, and the cam turns freely. Next order of business is the start reassembling the case. Before final assembly I'm going to lap the jugs into the spigot holes, and to then to the corresponding cylinder heads. If everything goes as planned I should have the case reassembled by tomorrow.

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          • Progress! I got most of the parts cleaned up, I'm down to a few minor things to clean up as I go along now. I lapped the jugs to the case and heads. I checked and cleaned the rods and rod nuts and I'm glad I did. The rod nuts I have would've probably worked fine, but I had 2 other sets of rods so I used the best combination of nuts I could find. I also noticed that when the machine shop pressed the wrist pin bushings in they didn't debur the oil holes in the bushings. I ran a drill bit through every one and cleaned them up. That left a slight bur on the inside of the bushings which are bronze. I used the wrist pins and some assembly lube and hand burnished the burs out. It worked fantastic! I test fit the new main bearings in the case. Looks like I got a good set, they fit nice and snug. The center main is a bit sprung but it was that way with the last set too. Tomorrow I'll put the rods on the crank and hopefully be dropping it in and buttoning the case back up. Then I can test fit the jugs and cylinders and check deck height. I'm pretty stoked right now, this deal is working out better this time around. I suspect it's because I'm taking my time and double checking things. Here are some pics..

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            • I thought VWs were cool as a kid always wanted one. Thanks for sharing.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

              PB 60' 1.49
              ​​​​​​

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              • I've been busy... I put the case halves together last weekend and it turns over with 1 finger. Today I set end play, installed the crank seal, and flywheel. Installed the pistons & cylinders and checked deck height. Deck height is .050-.055 which right in range for a mild stocker build. Compression ratio will be around 7.9-8.0 (I can run cheap gas if I want to). Now I can put the heads on and assembly the rest of the motor. It only took 9yrs... This is the 3rd time doing this and you know what they say...

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                • Originally posted by tardis454 View Post
                  This is the 3rd time doing this and you know what they say...

                  few things age better then a VW motor?
                  just when I finally got the last oil stain off my floor?
                  who knew that something that made this much noise could be so slow?



                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                    few things age better then a VW motor?
                    just when I finally got the last oil stain off my floor?
                    who knew that something that made this much noise could be so slow?


                    I laughed out loud at that Aaron, thanks!

                    A few hours later... And I have a longblock...

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                    • Pulled an all nighter last night, slept for a few hours, got up and finished installing the tinware.

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                      The tinware fits like shit so I'll have to do a little 'persuading' the get it to seal properly..

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                      Hey STINEY, is the tinware supposed to fit like this? I thought everything was supposed to overlap and seal??



                      Another thing...

                      What's the best course of action with this engine in regards to tuning it 'before' the break in start-up?
                      Specs: 1641 single port, stock replacement cam, Holley 2110 Bug-Spray kit, knock off 009 distributor..
                      I dropped the distributor in what I think is the right spot and adjusted the valves. The carb is rebuilt..
                      Do you do adjustments to the carb & distributor engine off, or at idle, THEN rev it to 2500 to break it in?
                      I've done my share of carb'd engine rebuilds but this is my first VW..
                      How does STINEY tune em/break em in?
                      Last edited by tardis454; June 21, 2020, 12:46 PM.

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                      • Yeah, unless you have a stash of proven pure original factory tins a crappy fit is normal now. I have added screws to pull the tins to the shroud, that helps.

                        Run the idles air screws in all the way and back out 2 turns. They won't be perfect, but should run fairly good if the carb isnt junk. The most important thing is the timing, and it can be set VERY close sitting still with a simple 12v test light.

                        Clip the ground of the light to the positive of the coil. Then touch/probe the positive of the light to the ground of the coil. Now set the engine to 7.5 degrees BTDC on #1 compression stroke. With the distributor clamp loose and the ignition on turn the distributor body until the light just comes on (or goes out) and lock it down there.

                        You have just static timed an engine. This should give a total advance of 32 degrees, depending on the distributor used and its build quality control, but that can be checked and adjusted later after breaking in the cam. It should fire right up if fuel is present.

                        Once fired up I immediately go to 2500 and vary it around there for about 10 minutes. Shut it down while still up on the revs, check things like oil, etc, let it cool. Then do another 10 minute run session, repeat. One more 10 minute run and I call them good.

                        Change the oil, check the valve lash, and go on to fine tuning. This is usually when the dual carbs go on and the real fun starts.
                        Last edited by STINEY; June 21, 2020, 11:35 PM.
                        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                        • Soon...

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                          • I managed to get the engine off the assembly yoke and attach it to the test stand bellhousing without dropping it.
                            I got most of the wiring hooked up, I still have to polarize the generator, time it and hook up the fuel lines.

                            I'm gonna ask STINEY to bless it in German for me and fire it up..

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                            • I HATE the way those things spill coolant EVERYWHERE! (best of luck with it)

                              Dan

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                              • 1 word.. FAIL.

                                I've been trying to get this thing to fire up for 2hrs and no dice. I swapped the plug wires around, re-dropped the dist 180, checked checked & rechecked the timing, nothing.. All I'm doing now is killing the new battery. When I began it was backfiring through the carb & exhaust which made me think 180 off or timing issue in general. I have good hot spark & plenty of fuel, but it still won't fire up. At this point I'm not sure what to do. The only thing I can think of is maybe I have to re-drop the distributor gear itself. Worst case scenario I might have the cam off, but I don't think that's the issue since I lined the dots up where they need to be.

                                Maybe STINEY knows? (I know he does..)
                                People say they're easy to work on but all I've ever experienced is failure.
                                Last edited by tardis454; July 3, 2020, 04:50 PM.

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