Little Engine, Little Tires, Little Nitrous...

[weedburner]

The pumps flow freely internally when not running, so a failed pump will still vent crankcase pressure and not damage the engine. Most of the noise that the pumps emit comes from their exhaust port, which sounds much like a vacuum cleaner. With a pump mounted inside the car, the pump cannot be heard when the engine is running.
Here's a short list of applications and part numbers to look for...
Delco 215-425
Autozone 32-3501M
A1-Cardone 32-3500M
Ford F6ZE-9A486-DC
'07 Cobalt
'03-'09 Mustang Cobra R (actually used as a crankcase evac pump in this application)
8 cyl SVO Taurus

Most of these pumps are basically the same internally, just clocking of the inlet/outlet is different. Here's a list of vacuum drawn at various voltages...
...1"Hg @ 9.5v
...4"Hg @ 12v (draws 12amps @12v)
...7"Hg @ 16v
...8"Hg @ 18v

[weedburner]

I added a page to my website with a better explanation on how the clutch slipper works, CLICK HERE to check it out.

[langleylad]

I'm so inspired when I view your work ..... keep inspiring me please ..... great stuff ! ... even though I don't need it , I'm thinking how could I use a pump !

[weedburner]

I removed the nitrous jet and modified the little Powershot nitrous solenoid. Bored out the orofice and hand ported, this system now flows enough for over 225hp instead of it's original 175. I could have easily went to larger solenoids and accomplished the same thing, but this has become more of a mini grudge car. Everybody seems to know that those small body Powershot solenoids only flow enough for a 175 shot

I've had the engine out 3 times this year, twice to swap out cracked pistons (rattled it a couple times), also went to gas ported 1.2mm gapless rings. I upped the game on crankcase vacuum, it's now 15-16"Hg even at idle, using the sealed pcv system. I only turn the electric vac pump on when i'm spraying. The engine is out right now, getting a new crankshaft. Just part of my ongoing experiment with thin oil.

Here's a pic of a driveshaft i twisted back in July...



Remember, i'm spraying this on hyper pistons and 87 octane regular gas. Hiway mileage is still around 20mpg, better than my Astrovan!

[weedburner]

Here's a pic from a no-prep test session...

[Darren N.]

Bitchin' launch!

Also, I enjoyed reading your slipper clutch page. I really dig all your tricks and innovations. If this is a "grudge car" and you're revealing that you're porting the nitrous solenoid... I can only imagine what you're NOT telling us . Looks like it runs good, damn good.

[kyhunter89]

This car, from the poted solenoids and on hyper pistons to the no prep launch is badass.

[weedburner]

Using the H345 hyper pistons is just my personal insanity. You seldom get to inspect a cracked hyper before it explodes, here's one that was sprayed a 220 shot on 87 octane, only pulling 10 degrees off of 36. It starts in the pin bore, caused by a little detonation followed by pin flexing. Combine that with not enough clearance, it pops the pin bore apart.........



crack then extends out to the ring lands...



a then up the side thru the lands to the valve reliefs...



Nothing like installing $700 worth of rings on a $100 set of pistons.

[weedburner]

Here's a pic from Mar 23...

[racingsnake440]

Love this project!

[weedburner]

I've been working on the clutch slipper project a bit, making it easier to adjust the clutch's hit without the need for tools. I now use a simple dial type adjustment with an internal detent. No more need to use wrenches, now it's just a simple turning of a dial. You can dial in/out initial hit without even unbuckling your belts! Here's a pic of the new version, it now has a notch milled into the threaded rod, while the round Delrin "Initial Hit" dial (center of below pic) uses a steel ball detent that's pre-loaded with a simple o-ring to keep the dial from free spinning...



How is it adjusted?...

Adjustment #1- Initial Clutch Hit...Adjusting the round dial on the threaded portion of the shaft changes the amount of initial clutch "hit", similar to adjusting the base pressure on an adjustable long style clutch. Initially we dial in 7 to 10 turns of "delay" (see adjustment #2), as this basically removes the secondary clutch application and allows focusing on just the initial hit. It is preferred that the clutch initially slips enough that the engine is not pulled down below it's "staged" RPM when the clutch is dumped. For this part of the adjustment we usually just make 30' to 60' test hits, no need to make a full run.
The basic idea is to tune your clutch's initial hit to your chassis and track conditions. That could mean different things in different situations...
......If your primary goal is protecting your transmission, rear diff, or drive axles from sticky tires, a less aggressive initial hit simply allows for a little more initial clutch slippage than optimum. This effectively spreads the stored inertia's application over a longer period of time, reducing the torque spikes that the drivetrain would otherwise see when the clutch is dumped. Not enough initial hit (too much slip) will result in excessive clutch wear and reduced acceleration.
......If your primary goal is maximum acceleration, too much initial clutch hit can result in violent chassis reaction, an overall loss of traction, and excessive tire spin. You could try to control this with shock settings alone, but it is rare for overly stiff shock settings to be optimum for gear changes down the track. Ideally, a little tire spin can be good, but wheel-speed should not exceed vehicle-speed by more than 10-15%.


Adjustment #2- Secondary Clutch Lock-up Delay...Secondary lock-up delay is used to delay clutch lockup until the vehicle speed can catch up with engine speed. Turning the cylinder's winged dash knob (on the right in the pic above) basically changes how quickly additional clutch pressure comes in. There are 10 turns of adjustment on the knob. At "0" turns (fully counter-clockwise) our clutch pedal was delayed .181 sec, barely noticable. At "10" turns, the pedal takes about a minute to return.


When racing, if a clutch grabs too quickly it can pull the engine RPM down too much, below it's peak power range. When adjusted for a well prepped track, the Clutch Tamer can allow an engine to spend more time operating closer to it's power peak. During experimentation, it was confirmed that a car is typically much quicker when the clutch lockup is delayed a little more than we liked. We found the optimum delay to be one that did not pull the RPM down during launch, but allowed the engine to go straight to it's power range and stay there without activating the shift lite prematurely. Always try to begin your clutch tuning from a starting point of being too "grabby". Excessive clutch slipping can wear out a clutch pretty quickly, so it is best to sneak up on your adjustment. We like to use enough secondary delay to keep the engine's RPM up near it's torque peak until there is enough vehicle speed for clutch lockup.

Here's a pic of it installed in the car...


I have a customer in the UK with a really fast 1000rwhp Subaru. He was running 8.20's in the 1/4 having trouble with breaking the rest of the drivetrain. I sent him a clutch slipper and now a month later he's running 7.80's!

There is an explanation of why it works at http://clutchtamer.com

[hauen]

Cool, I hope you sell a million of them!

[Beagle]

I read through the GSS pages, looks like you've scienced the hell out of it Mr. Wizard! It was a good read, enlightening even.

[Russell]

Any clue how much power a stock T5 could take with one of these? I am sure there is more than one input in that equation. (Full weight fox with drag radials)

[weedburner]

I have not tested the oem T5 to exact failure numbers, but on launch it looks to be around 800ft/lbs of smooth power input depending on 1st gear ratio (2.95 boxes are much stronger in 1st than a 4.03).

Basically, if your engine is making 450 ft/lbs and the flywheel effect of the spinning crankshaft/flywheel assembly releases another 400ft/lbs, your transmission's input shaft will see a total of 850ft/lbs at lockup. Delaying lockup allows launching at a much lower rpm, and that makes completely eliminating that torque spike at lockup possible. With the torque spike gone, there's room to add more engine power before that same breaking point is reached.

While it's possible to completely eliminate the torque spike during launch, during the gear changes you still have to deal with the release of energy from a roughly 2000 rpm drop in crankshaft/flywheel speed. Extending clutch lockup out to around 1 second does have rewards though, reducing that added spike during gearchanges to less than 100ft/lbs. The more that the torque spike at lockup is reduced, the less that vehicle weight actually matters.