Russell's Dad Graham is one of the good guys. He's very quiet (well, compared to me anyway) but is kind and loves hanging out with his boy. He even seems to think I'm OK (silly man!).
tubular arms for fox 8.8 are pretty cheap to find used.
I was able to get by with tubular arms and poly greasable bushings with DR's... but I had problems spinning too - but not with wheel hop.... I bet if you welded flat plate to the open bottoms of the stock arms, and replaced the rubber bushings with poly - you'd go a long way to eliminating the wheel hop.... after that - slicks and hold on.
Leave on the second yellow - red light a few times and back off if needed.
Check out the free jegs app for your phone - it helps to train your eyes and brain - not so much the chassis and your foot - but gets you more used to the rythm of the tree.
I went back and looked I picked up .52 sec ET and the fastest trap speed went up 1.43mph. Was not expecting the mph to go up, different fuel? different track?
I'd caution that he get arms with Heim joints on one end or the other which means he'll need a Panhard bar to keep the axle under the middle of the car. But all in all worth it. Those stiff bushings are what tear up the torque boxes due to side loadings. But all the above should be available used for not much money.
I wonder if the MPH was the result of taller tires? Just a thought.
Dan
Last edited by DanStokes; January 22, 2013, 01:19 PM.
I think the single best thing I did to get my car to launch was switching to a plain ole bias ply slick. They are more forgiving in regards to chassis setup. Went from very inconsistent 60's to mid-low 1.50's every time. UPR single adjustable lowers, stock uppers, stock shocks.
How much adjusting have you done on your lowers? I always thought the uppers where the weak ones? I have a set of non adjustable tube uppers I got with a bunch of mustang parts. Also have a set of 70/30 struts need to decide what direction I am going.
None. I set them to the correct length and then later lengthened them a little to center the wheel in the wheel well better.
When launching, the lowers are trying to push forward and the uppers are being pulled, so I always felt like solid lowers would be a better bang for the buck..... for some reason. lol
Well after sitting for about three years, Dad and I pulled the gt40p engine and T5 out and put the engine in his 1980 F250 that needed a motor. I hope it serves him well. After I swap the stock rear axle back in. I plan to put the roller up for sale.
New home:
Last edited by Russell; January 18, 2016, 08:00 PM.
The Capri was fun, would make a great sleeper, but as someone once said it's easier to stack up cash than cars. It also easier to have some cash and one project than 3.
The P motor swap did not go as good as I have envisioned it. It ran like crap in the truck. Dad had a friend look at it and he rebuilt the carb it was gummed trashed up. Well it still ran bad after the carb rebuild. I was convened it had a vacuum leak. Sure enough the brakes booster is bad!
Dad and I pulled the 3.73 8.8" (it will go in his 90 LX someday) and returned the 2.47 7.5" back to its right full home.
The Capri is now officially unofficially for sale as a roller. Officially because if you bring me cash it will be yours. Unofficially because it's three countries away, and I still need to get the title to the dmv so I can get it in my name so I can sell it.
Mercury Capri ghia, originally a 5.0 auto car currently a roller with clutch pedal still installed original automatic brake pedal included. Body is ruff has some surface rust but the under side is solid. Inside is mostly there but sun baked. I applied for the title yesterday should be here in less than 2 weeks. would make a great race car or street car because no inspection is required. Free delivery within 50 miles after asking price paid in full. Asking $1,000.
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