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1979 Mercury Capri

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  • pictures of headers.





    Do you think I should have this moved to the 5K build? I have been hoping for fast not quick, but it looks like the ECTA is leaving NC and I might have to take up drag racing. If i take up drag racing should I build the 89 or 79?
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

    PB 60' 1.49
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    • on their way to turning blue. Mine did.

      Yeah, I'd move it over there. Fast, Quick, All the same one way or another.
      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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      • one sure way to see if they are stainless or not - put a drop of water on someplace and wait overnight! I'm guessing from the looks of them they are mild steel - try hitech or hytech - high heat paint - I used it on the ranger but don't have enough hours on them to know if it works - supposed to start with sand blasted surface - then put on two super thin coats. I used a cheap harbor freight detail gun - Seth painted the first ones - painting headers and getting full coverage on all the tubes is a biatch! I'm not sure any header paint really works without needed lots of touch up over the years - some guys here have had good luck with VHT - me - not so much.
        There's always something new to learn.

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        • VHT works great if the engine is never started. :|

          the mac spaghetti bowl equal lengths for my fox mustang blued quite a bit. I thought they were nickel finish, but apparently not.
          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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          • i think i will let them just blue or rust what ever they want to do.
            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

            PB 60' 1.49
            ​​​​​​

            Comment


            • lol. Mine never rusted, fwiw.
              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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              • Here's a few you might want to look at:

                KBS Xtreme Temperature Coating is a high temperature/heat resistant coating and header paint formulated specifically to protect metal surfaces operating at temperatures from 500 degrees F to 1500 degrees F.


                this is the tech-line stuff I've tried - I got two shorty sets out of one little can.... again - I don't have enough run time on them to know how well it really works.... but it didn't burn right off like typical rattle can stuff does...


                There's always something new to learn.

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                • I wonder how it would work if you let them rust intentionally (spray them down with saltwater) and then use that paint junk for converting rust that turns it into magnetite? I think that is naturally black, then put the bbq paint over that?
                  Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                  • touch them with a magnet....
                    Cognizant Dissident

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                    • Roger that - I keep forgetting that. The last time I had an MRI I told them I had wire in my cheek - they said "it's stainless" I went ... Doh. Yeah.
                      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                      • They are not stainless starting to rust alittle. They have a ton more room around the spark plugs almost like the were made for the P head. There is also no conflict with the clutch cable! The one problem is the fuel line is way to close the tubes, don't even think I could hook it up if I wanted to. Going to have to reroute the hard line..... Anybody ever put a small fuel cell under the hood? Bad idea? Rules?
                        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                        PB 60' 1.49
                        ​​​​​​

                        Comment


                        • Pictures of the headers / spark plugs





                          Now if I can just get my fuel line and Clutch problems fixed. The quadrant is POPING loose and There is not clutch I think its time for a new quadrant...
                          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                          PB 60' 1.49
                          ​​​​​​

                          Comment


                          • those look nice in there! Money well spent, imo. It looks like maybe one 90* boot is still needed? That's about what my truck long tubes fit like. I had to use a 90* boot on number 5. The tube was tucked a little closer than yours I think.
                            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                            • I think I could get away with standard ford boots but I am going to use the 90* set I bought for the last set of headers. I have replaced the two burnt boots with the ones off of the chevy coil wire that came in the set. I have a few heat socks for the boots I will put on the closest wires. I think 7 and 8 will be the winners. Some times being cheap saves me money sometimes it causes me to have to do things twice and buy more parts.
                              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                              PB 60' 1.49
                              ​​​​​​

                              Comment


                              • Got the fuel line relocated, new clutch quadrant, the big end of the steering shaft was hitting the header I ground it down alittle, hope that works other wise I will be looking for a new shaft with a smaller joint.

                                Got my fingers crossed that I will be able to take it to test and tune saturday night at the 1/8! Think it will be ok with open headers? Want to guess what it will run?
                                http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                                1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                                PB 60' 1.49
                                ​​​​​​

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