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Mellow Yellow 71 C-10

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  • Mellow Yellow 71 C-10

    here is an engine shot of my 71 c-10 with the 350 that I got it with.. it's a texas truck..
    it is 1977 corvette yellow..
    plans were to drop my 454 and ? tranny(th350/400/700r4/200r4) into it
    now it'll be my daily for the season..
    and drive it and tow the chevelle up to NED for some fun.. or maybe a fly'n mile thing(it's a brick so)
    I have a blazer tank to go under the bed and move the tank in the cab out..
    a conovan guage panel(blank) and autometer old school white faced guages
    a padded dash pad with three pods in it for 2.16" gauges
    a walnut wheel and other goodies that I'll post as I go



    3 pod dash pad(not installed )

    Last edited by Stich496; August 10, 2011, 04:21 PM.

  • #2
    OK, because of my health this will more than likely be my daily driver..
    so. I gotta get my @$$ IN GEAR
    here is the factory dash gauge panel

    Haven't desided what to do with the glovebox cover
    add engine call out/etc

    the tiller that will be used

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    • #3
      Ok ,after looking at the aftermarket gauge panel for hours try'n to figure out
      where to put the gauges,
      I looked at the stocker

      so ,i'm looking and looking and deside, what the hell, I'll take it apart and look it over..
      the small 2 and 1/16th " gauges fit the lower four holes like they where factory,
      the upper two holes that factory held the speedo and the fuel gauge where a little to big . A good 1/8th" to big.. but the factory rolled the edges , so with vise grips ,and body work hammer and dolly, closed up the holes without making hammer marks in the metal. so now those gauges will fit
      speedo where the factory speedo was and tac where the fuel gauge was..
      if I could figure out how to make the panel look cermetrical(sp?) I'd put the tac in the factory hole thats blank and dead center over the steering wheel..
      any input ??
      i'll post pics tomorrow.. as I couldn't find my 2and 1/8th hole saw to cut out the factory metal backing (face windows for the factory gauges)
      so I went to home depot and got another, witch you know means I'll find the old one once I use this one..
      got some shrink sleaves and wire ties..
      they don't carry multi connertors , radio shack does, so I looked over at another vendor MacCaster-carr and they also carry them..
      so I just have to figure out what # of pins I want and order the male/female and the pins and sockets. so I can have a quick connector, to remove the gauge panel when needed..
      I feel like a kid again, rolling change to buy connectors.. don't know if thats good or bad or just sad..
      radio shack it's like 9 bucks for 2 sets of connectors, MacCaster-car it's 21 for 10 sets of connectors and 100 pins and sockets ..
      tomorrow pic's as I cut,fit,paint and rework the factory gauge panel..

      the only other "issue" is the glass (factory plactic)

      if you look at the factory large gauges(fuel and speedo) I'd like to use the factory glass there to keep dust out of the panel, the lower smallers are flush fit, but the replacement gauges for the big holes will be fitted in the black backing panel leaving a space between the black backer and the gauge panel face (black and chrome piece)
      any Ideas on what product will take off the green writing on the glass(plastic) the speedo speed #'s are ON THE GLASS AND thE FUEl HAS writing on the glass not the gauge,
      1500-2000 grit sand paper, mothers headlight repair glaze, paint compound??
      didn't see and 1/8th" plexi at home depot,

      Comment


      • #4
        Here is the factory set up

        Cut the holes in the lower four and center upper to fit the Autometer 2 1/16th" gauges

        Added a little paint

        The speedo and tach backing clamps ,where a tad to short for the sheet metal backing panel so,, I added a little RTV and waa la

        The autometer 2 1/16th" gauges fit the lower four spots in the factory panel like they are born there



        The factory panel had the highbeam light in a gauge so, had to add one,
        sadly the hole is a little off center..


        The speedo and tach fit the factory holes "almost" the factory rolled the metal edges, so to close up the hole a little, I unrolled the flange a little , and Waaa la..

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        • #5


          The highbeam and turn signal lights are l.e.d.


          and the finished panel , only thing missing is the upper three gauges glass,
          that is being buffed, then I'll install and have a better pic of the finished product..

          Comment


          • #6
            A little update
            the gauge panel glass my dad took to work and used the headlight buffing system to make it like new, I just have to cut a hole for the clock set knob.
            * I sold my 454 to pay med. bills but some of it is going to the truck as it will be my daily driver and I'll find a winter beater..
            * installed a head unit , and they have no room in this dash for much.. had to remove alot of the a/c,heat duct work to get to it.. then put it all back,
            who's idea was it to put the wiper moter under there..
            *worked on the seat, I'll post pic's later..
            * installed speakers and got stopped as I had no grommets, so off to parts stores, nothing.. McCASTER-CARR has them, in bags of a 100, I need 4, so, I have 96 extra..
            * will be ordering some por 15 to do the frame and underside of bed.. then later the underside of cab, etc
            * need to degrease the engine and tranny..(any ideas, simple green???)
            *went junkyard crawl'n (had to have a buddy come with me incase I pass out,how embarrassing) anyways. scored headers 30.oo/a mopar dual relay bracket and relays (for headlight rewire these trucks only get 11 volts to the head lights stock, relay 14.5v)// a th350 100.oo//2) monty SS 200r4's 225.oo// a monty hood (to weld in a gookmark 5" cowl scoop) 50.oo)
            and a bunch of fuses and flashers, intake bolts and dissy holddown for a vortec headed engine,incase I drop vortecs on the engine under hood(summit the bolts are 19.oo, sorry,um NO!)
            * HAVE 2 q jets that I'm going to rebuild , and one holley 3310-3(vac 2nd 750) q jet will go on first, 750 will go on the 355 if it goes in (have to rework compression a tad for DD useage..
            * need to order(maybe) the 750 rebuild kit (after I find out what the kits spidy sent with the carb are)
            * order a rebuild kit and converter for the 200r4 so my truck will have OD
            * I picked up a '84 t/a alt (78amp) new demy, not rebuilt, tune up parts (plugs,cap,rotor,wires,) I'll be use'n my 4" tall k.n. air cleaner thats sat for 12 years..
            a new driveshaft carrier bearing (2 piece drive shaft) as the one under truck is junk..
            picking up at grant steel2) 2 by 2 1/4 thick 7" long square tube(20.oo) that will lower the rear 2" to level the truck, u bolts woodward spring([email protected])
            so instead of the 89.oo kit, I'll be into it for 50.oo I'm sure after I pick up the tube I'll come across some 2 by 2 scrap for free..
            * dad has a set of nascar wheels with tires and a set of new craigars in boxes that i'm getting, so I'll have my choice of the wheels on it..(alum centers chrome metal rim (rusty), the craigars, the nascars, I have a set of western torque "d" style rims, and a set of 81 z28 alum. rims(think monty SS wheels)
            * will more than likely replace all rubber brake lines and check the pads/shoes/lines
            * a power brake boster/master kit is 299.oo but an astro van hydraboost system is a junkyard away.. still rescearching this..
            pictures as I go.. when I have all the wheels here I'll make a pole, just for giggles on what everyone thinks of what wheels to use
            peace..
            raining now.. time to order some more junk..

            Comment


            • #7
              new use for hood pin cables
              most older cars/trucks have vent windows that are very easy to get open,
              also most have bolt(screwed) on arm rest..
              If you take the hood pin cable and run one end(loop) under the arm rest use'n the screw/bolt to hold that end
              and a key chain loop on the other(to place over the vent window lever)
              it'll make it a little harder (i'm gonna add a cable clamp on the door so it will be very hard to pop with a coat hanger..
              pictures to follow (waiting on parts..)


              todays juknyard score
              a 1 1/4" front sway bar

              and a few other parts I have to research.. to see if they will work..
              73-87 bed mat.. if it fits 67-72
              70-72 blazer front buckets.. if they are in fact blazer buckets
              73-87 hyd boost... depending on what has to be done to use it..
              hood.. (to add cowl scoop to)

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              • #8
                the seat


                and painted the blazer tank

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                • #9





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                  • #10
                    Well, last week I dug out some stereo gear from my 97 f 150 that I installed in 98 and pulled when it was totalled in 2000
                    and desided to install the old junk that isn't worth anything in the truck
                    The doors where already cut front and rear for 6.5" speakers so I opened the rear hole and installed my boston acustic 6 by9s and pioneer 6.5"

                    I also had some kickpanels and a set of cerwin vaga(remember them) 6.5" two way seperates
                    the woofer is in the kick the tweeter in the dash

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                    • #11
                      and re installed the seat after a little rework

                      now to fit this blazer tank under the bed

                      this brace under the bed must be cut
                      all gone

                      there is another brace behind this one so it's not a big deal, if I was to use it like a 3/4 ton truck then,,
                      I'm gonna cut the brace at my cut about 3/8" and fold it in and weld it so it'll have a little added strenth..
                      after that sand and sand and then some por 15

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                      • #12
                        well, I'm stalled..
                        1)need to rebuild q jet have float and kit waiting on troddle shaft bushings
                        2)unbolted the long arms for install of 2" lowering blocks and bushings shot, on order
                        3)installed tank, need to run lines , pick up 3/8 hose to conect it all tomorrow
                        4) gauge panel turn signal leds to big, had to order smaller ones, stalled
                        5)bed cap , waiting to hear back from leer if the one I can get for peanuts fits my truck.
                        6) crushed the drivers side brake line on the last swing of hammer while removing the u bolts..
                        7)sway bar waiting on paint to dry..
                        8) need to get bed flipped so I can sand bottom, no one around, mr murphy

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                        • #13
                          cleaned and painted my junkyard front sway bar and brackets

                          cleaned and burned out the bushings in the long arms

                          first coat of paint

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                          • #14
                            while cleaning the rear end I got all the numbers off it..
                            this one is driverside facing forward

                            drivers side back top

                            drivers side back tube

                            two sets drivers side back bottom

                            pass side front

                            pass side front tube

                            any info thanks

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                            • #15
                              While, rebuilding the rear end of the truck I desided it take the rake out of it.. as it may help when loading up the bed, but this truck will never see that type heavy loads again but will be used as a truck so didn't want to lower the whole truck. just take the rake out of it to help with weight transfer..
                              so off to grant steel for some 2"by2" .25 square tube

                              took the shock mount and used it for template for the holes for the u bolts

                              a little paint

                              the carrier bearing was junk so try'd to install it.. but the u joint has to come out.. and no cash so. it's on hold

                              the energy sub. bushings for the long arms.

                              they don't like to just fall in.. and don't come with outer shells..

                              spent a half day cleaning and sanding the rear end , that I'll have to resand as it isn't painted and rained the last few days


                              see my el cheapo coil overs.. hehe..

                              next up is sand the bottom of the bed and por15 it..
                              just received the q jet throttle shaft bushings and thats on my plate too.
                              just need a drillpress vise..
                              thanks fer reading

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