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Drag Week 2012 - Project GIRTST 71 Mustang (get it right the second time)

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  • #61
    Actually that is pretty much what I did. Since the slider actually attaches to the two cross plates I ran .125 material in a fan shape up to the rail about two inches on the front one and a differet shape up to the new cross memeber in the back. Pictures to come.
    Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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    • #62
      So I started it yesterday and everything seemed to go well and it was on to the pre-drive stuff.

      BTW the Innovate Motorsport LC-1 gauges are just the easiest, coolest, and best AFR device I've used. The ease of datalogging in MegaSquirt almost made me cry.

      And, today I drove the thing around a bit on September's old gas. It felt like I felt, cranky, stiff, and a bit unused to driving a caged animal in a suddenly tight neighborhood.

      My local gas station, the necessary first stop was closed, so I made a bit of a banzai run back home as the fuel pressure gyrated all over the place. I had the unplanned pleasure of leaving a guy in a GT3 Porsche for dead in an atempt to push the fuel back to the sump.

      Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

      I keep findings things I missed in the run up to Drag Week '11. Appearantly I forgot to tighten the top of the front shocks at some point. And I drove around today with he petcock on the coolant recovery can open and wondered where all the coolant was 'leaking' from when I got back to the garage.

      I'm hoping that a real season of driving and racing will make for a much better DW 12.

      Much left to do.
      Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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      • #63
        Originally posted by CDMBill View Post
        I keep findings things I missed in the run up to Drag Week '11.
        lol Me too!
        Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
        1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ix-to-4sixzero
        1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
        1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
        1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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        • #64
          At least you guys made it to DW '11.
          There's always something new to learn.

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          • #65
            So the cooling system refresh/update/idiot repair is complete. I painted the tanks and the tube covers of the new AFCO radiator with high heat paint except for the portion facing into the engine compartment to have just a little bling. I don't like seeing bright aluminum radiator tanks through the grill of the car.



            During the admittedly short test drive after a full warm-up all temps stayed well in range if a bit cool as the water temp never got above 180* even with a bit of 'sprirted' driving and I didn't drive it long enough to get much oil or trans cooler temp at all maybe 130*/120* respectively. Just stitting idleing in the garage it stayed at 160.

            The high point filler which is new for me this go around was easy to fill and I was able to watch the cap work through the clear overflow line when I let it heat soak after getting back in the garage. Its and AFCO 16#. I was going to replace the clear line once everything check out but I don't think it look so bad now. I am going to make it a bit longer and tie it off a couple places in the middle.



            I also have converted to Otiker clamps on the rubber hoses and they are easy to use have a built in torque limiter and can be sized to fit each location. I had zero leaks at the rubber radiator hose connections. No surprise the the AN 16 stuff was leak free too.



            I'm going to start looking at how to run some ducting or air guides to keep the airflow going where I want it to through the grill and into the coolers and the radiator. I may add one of those top plates from the grill to the core support to prevent air flow from going over the core support.



            This will all be part of the plan for cleaning up the temporary hood I added for Drag Week as the new manifold was way tall for the old heavy one anyway. I actually kind of like to the no bumper look but I think I am going tp put it back on. I have to fab new brackets to clear the coolers but that is a good thing as the old ones weighed almost ten pounds each.



            The final irony from Drag Week was the fan turns out to be one of the two speed models. There are two versions of the Mark VIII fan as it turns out, one that has the ame speeds on two (+) inputs like I used to have, and one that is high and low. I now have the high and low version which I dtermined by checking each input by swapping the relay leads. At Drag Week I had a simple manual switch that was only connceted to one side of the fans' (+) input. I now have the high speed side controlled by the EMS-Pro EFI box and the low side on my override for use to cool the car in lines between rounds as it has always run best with 140* water temp and warm oil.

            It might be that if I had the high speed side wired we would have made it to Great Bend and solved some of our other issues. If and buts...
            Last edited by CDMBill; February 28, 2012, 09:58 AM.
            Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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            • #66
              So the next issue is the hood. I cobbled this combination together at the last minute last year based on where I could go get them as in stock items. That turned out to be Unlimited Products and the only 'race weight' hood they had was a traditional Mach 1 style and the only acceptable to me style that would cover the intake, throttle boddies and isolator/filter set-up was the extra tall Boss 429 scoop.

              Some good buddies helped me hack and bolt it together and add hood pins the night before I loaded up for KC.



              It worked fine and looked, umm acceptable from maybe 100 feet away. Or not.



              This is what is under the isolator plate and the filter which is a 3.5x16" K & N squeezed into and oval shape.



              Another buddy helped me work up the isolator on the assumption that a taller cowl style hood from another vendor I'd ordered two months before the event when I picked the tunnel ram would arrive in time. It didn't.

              The isolator is as close to the throttle bodies as I could go and still clear the linkage and the nitrous stuff.



              So now I either try again with the other company, or clean this one up and paint it and in the mean time bolt a shorter Boss 429 style scoop to my old HEAVY fiberglass cowl hood that fit the single TB set-up. That hood uses the conventional hinges which is noce for weekend driving and less intense events than DW.

              Old hood set up.



              Imagine with Boss 429 scoop still facing front.

              Suggestions?
              Last edited by CDMBill; February 28, 2012, 10:00 AM.
              Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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              • #67












                Just some pictures that might generate some thoughts. You need to seal up everything from inlet to the radiator. I even seal the top of the aluminum ducting with real HVAC tape, the ducting to the intercooler is sealed with a rubber seal. The intercooler is placed directly in front of and sealed to the radiator so that no air swirls and disrupts airflow to the radiator. Think like a port job on an intake port, last thing you want is separation and swirling of the air.
                I'm still learning

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                • #68
                  Cooling system ducting 101

                  Bob, Thanks for posting these. I'd seen setups like thse which led me to put the trans and oil coolers right in fornt of the radiator ahead of Drag Week, but I failed to to do the rest of the job correctly and I certainly had some miss-matched components.

                  How did you determine the proportion of the inlet that goes to the intercooler versus that which goes to the radiator?

                  I'd have to assume that the intercooler core is relatively less restrictive to air flow so that you get an effective cooling path into the radiator itself in that section? My oil and trans coolers are much more densely packed in terms of fin count and would appear to be more restrictive which is why I offset them as much as I could.
                  Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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                  • #69
                    the inlet is 1/3 the size of the cooling fin surface, in other words, don't count the tank. Then you take your sides back at no more than a 7% angle so that you don't have flow separation from the sidewalls. You can see that we violate that on the upper surface due to mounting constraints.

                    Now, you need to modify that based on the depth of ducting that you can physically create. If you don't have enough room, then you need to open up the front of the duct.

                    The whole thing is an expansion chamber, as the speed of the air goes down, the pressure goes up, basic Bernoulli. That pressure helps to force all the available air through the heat exchanger. If you don't keep everything well sealed, it won't work.

                    Our problem is that the car is overcooled, we'll start off with the temps where I want them and then lose any temp as we run around the road course. We've taped up the radiator ducting completely, leaving only the part open for the intercooler, and not been able to get to temp. Finally went back to a thermostat instead of a restrictor.
                    Last edited by Bob Holmes; February 28, 2012, 05:52 PM.
                    I'm still learning

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                    • #70
                      Since I don't have the space you do and I intend to keep the extrnal appearnce as close to stock as possible I'll have some different challenges. In your earlier post you mentioned that the area of exit for air should be the same as the inlet. To clarify does that mean the area of the core? That would make sense to me as that would tend to create negative pressure on the back side so the air doesn't back up into the core at speed.

                      Therefore I want the frontal air to either go through the core or other cooler or go around and over the car, right? And the core exits for the coolers or radiator need to have at least that same area which is potentially doable. The new radiator setup seems to be far more efficient as heat exchanger so I may have some latitude and still have the car appear the way I wnat it to and be servicable

                      You have a rock screen in front of everything correct?
                      Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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                      • #71
                        I think you have it!

                        Yes it has a rock screen. Usually it just gathers up tire rubber.
                        I'm still learning

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                        • #72
                          So the first real test drive today and it was 44* when I left the house. I know for most folks this time of year that would be t-shirt weather but not for us spoiled SoCal guys.

                          I wneto to one of our usual weekend haunts, the so called Donut Derelicts, which is car guys who show up with whatever they want to every Saturday morning at a particular strip ceneter in Huntington Beach, CA where Adams Ave Donuts is located, hence the name.



                          My personal favorite was this race car/show car Road Runner driving on 14/32 ET Drag tires with a big Hemi on spray and a hydraulic tilt front end.





                          So the cooling system passed the driving in cold weather test. Actually I had to turn the water pump off occasionally to keep any heat in it at all. With the just the pump circulating the water the car cooled from the 160* it showed after I warmed it up at the house down to 130 going 60 MPH up PCH.

                          I take this a good sign that the new Afco Radiator and the Meziere pump are doing their job. I may need to put a variable speed control on the pump, yay!
                          Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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                          • #73
                            44F in SoCal...yiikkess! Break out the sweaters, overcoats and toques.

                            That Road Runner is very special...although judging by the giant MOPAR motif on the trunk lid the owner must be concerned people will mistake it for something else. Wheelie bars on the back, yes?
                            Michael from Hampton Roads

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                            • #74
                              I'd put a hotter thermostat in it.

                              It was 44* at sunrise, but 80* by noon today. Brrrrrrrr.
                              Last edited by Scott Liggett; March 4, 2012, 12:09 AM.
                              BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                              Resident Instigator

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                                I'd put a hotter thermostat in it.
                                *I'd put a thermostat in.
                                Escaped on a technicality.

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