Drag Week 2012 - Project GIRTST 71 Mustang (get it right the second time)

[Bob Holmes]

Thanks, needed the chuckle.

And I know exactly what your talking about.

[CDMBill]

Classic WTF moment today. I had to pull the the intermediate exhaust pipes which are the collectors and Dr.Gas x-pipe in order to upsize he the race exhaust to a 4" pair of dumps and to make access to the trans pan easier. At Irwindale last weekend the Overdrive Lockout wasn't working. On the AOD the OD lockout keeps 100% line pressure on the clutch packs and ensures the trans doesn't up shift into OD as its only good for 450 Ft/lbs. You have to pull the pan to inspect the OD lockout solenoid and it's function.

To pull the intermediate pipes mean' disconnecting the AFR sensors. I had to cycle the ignition several times to figure out the the illuminated OD Lockout switch was fried and I forgot to re-calibrate the the MTX AFR's when I put everything back together. So when I started it be gauges went nuts.

So back up on the jack stands pull the sensors, recalibrate, reassemble, back off jack stands. Back to square one.

Isn't technology fun?

[Scott Liggett]

Oh joy. Here I was redoing the white wire from the MSD box on the Impala I'm using as a kill switch because it was frayed.

I think your car has more sensors and wiring than the 2011 Suburban I drive.

[CDMBill]

The good news is the recalibrate on went well, the external map sensor that reads crankcase pressure/vacuum is being logge and displayed in the software, and the other stuff is working too.

Having the opportunity to remove the intermediate pipes allowed me to properly clean and re-seal the collector flanges and an exhaust leak that was haunting me is finally gone. It sound a lot like the lash opening up which I am paranoid about.

Put the road race/auto-x, long drive tires and wheels on today for the Tucson trip coming up this week. Little brakes in 18's look stupid.

[CDMBill]

I was able to get the DW trailer back on track tonight with the help of a cut off wheel, grinder, die grinder and welder. Now it's down to the height I wanted so I can just see over it to the rear and it'll load easier and be better balanced when loaded seems like a bunch of non-sense but I think it'll pay off on the road.

Next TNT in Tucson and Phoenix for hot weather testing, then back to LA for the Pomona NMCA True Street event.

[BBR]

It sound a lot like the lash opening up which I am paranoid about.

I'm glad I'm not the only one that gets fooled by this!!! haha

[squirrel]

Next TNT in Tucson and Phoenix for hot weather testing, then back to LA for the Pomona NMCA True Street event.

when? Aug 11th?

[CDMBill]

Exactly!

[CDMBill]

I'm working on the fuel tank project at the moment and I think I'm going to go a slightly different route. I bought a new tank rather than fight the used tank welding issues and I have the Aeromotive sump and related parts. The picture gives a sense of relative size.



I was going to add baffles and one way valves dividing the tank into 3rds roughly with a front 'triangle' and two sides, but it doesn't help with getting all the fuel as much as possible into the sump, especially when I want to run the least fuel possible without starving the pickup.

So my plan is to use a small submersible pump that will in effect be a lift pump with the sump acting as a surge tank wthin the larger tank. This view sort of shows the relationship the two will have. I'll add baffles at the top of the sump to control slosh. A small pump and filter sock adds less weight than all the baffles and one way valves, and a hatch in the top of the tank and in the trunk floor withh give me easy access for repairs or servicing. At least that is the thinking. I'll add one drain to the main tank to ensre I can empty it when I need to, but I'm very open to other ideas as well as suggestions for the small lift pump.



These are the other parts including the one-way valves. I may keep the larger one in the fornt of the sump and add two smaller baffles so I can do stop start slosh into the sump in the event the pump fails. I know I'm adding complexity, but that seems to be my SOP.

[BBR]

Nothing to add except, FIVE GALLON SUMP! That thing looks huge.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Fill the tank with fuel cell material, but cut the center out where the pump is located (like 12"x12"). No slosh, plus no boom if it gets hit

personally I would be a bit worried of metal clapping into metal inside a tank (with doors) as one spark would make for a hot day.

[squirrel]

personally I would be a bit worried of metal clapping into metal inside a tank (with doors) as one spark would make for a hot day.

Hot things in gas tanks don't seem to be an issue....since there is no air.... I've taken out a couple melted electric in tank pumps.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Hot things in gas tanks don't seem to be an issue....since there is no air.... I've taken out a couple melted electric in tank pumps.

That's what they said about the 747 center fuel tank before the crash of TWA flight 800, it only takes once to ruin your entire day.

[CDMBill]

The large gate valve is fuel safe plastic, the other two are parts with fancy unobtainium seats, developed for IndyCar according to Fuelsafe, which is where I bought them.

I know I 'should' be using a custom fuel cell as there are no off the shelf units for my car, but they are particularly spendy and I have a budget to stay within this year.

I like the fuel cell foam idea and may give that a shot if I can figure out how much access I need for getting it in and if necessary, out.

[Dignlif]

Hey Bill,

Sorry to disrupt all the topics of coolness you have going on right now but I have a quick question going back to your power window install. I got the same kit and have a problem with it blowing the fuse as soon as I turn the car power back on. I even went down to minimum config with just one switch wired and it still happened. I pulled the motor leads off the switch for the driver door and it goes up and down fine with the battery off my drill so there's no short there.

Did you find anything hinky with the switches or wiring diagram? I wanted to just use two switches in the console but when I had problems initially I went ahead and wired all 3 in to make sure I didn't make bad assumptions on adapting their diagram.

BTW, I found out real quick how different our doors are when I went to install the motor assy's. I almost gave up twice before coming up with a workable mounting solution. I only have the middle 1/3 of the door behind a panel, the rest top and bottom is exposed metal.