.

[bjohn]

.....

[CTX-SLPR]

Uhgggg... I hate 82 F-bodies, so much is a bastard 1 year only. Now for making a race car out of it's fine but mine drove me up the wall! I don't know engines well enough to make suggestions but from a wiring and component stand point, make sure what you want to do will work on an 82 specifically!

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm not a fan of a t-5 behind a 350 - but at least it's easy to swap in a much stronger transmission (like a saginaw - lol) when it does blow.... In autocross won't need an overdrive, so perhaps your shopping can find you a Super t-10 out of a late 70s Camaro, Corvette or Firebird? Also, overdrive is overrated in your combo since the rear gears are something like 2.73s

[HillbillySailor2]

Here's a T-10 in your neck of the woods...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1959-1960-GM...r#ht_546wt_698

[Beagle]

...lots of people have lots of luck NOT drag racing T-5's on thirdgen forums.

Mustang guys too - not blowing the third gear shift helps almost as much as using that pedal thingy on the left (clutch)... lol. I've been pricing transmissions and even a dinosaur 4 speed Muncie close ratio is $$. The newer stuff is $$$, and I have issues with paying more for the trans than the entire rest of the car!

A T10, I question being much if any stronger, I think you have to go Super T10 to get more capacity than a 2.95 World Class t5, and I think the Z was just the gearset ($)

I see M21 Muncie close ratio's from time to time, rebuilt, for about 1000 or so. I've thought about it several times. I'm simply not ready to plop down 3500.00 for a t56. Maybe if I ever get a nice car. lmao.

What was it Scott Ligget has, an A883 I think? OD fourth gear? I see them and toploader OD's and wonder sometimes. More cubes, less shiffting?

[Huskinhano]

If you're stuck on the T5 a couple things you could do. I believe the Mustang gears will swap right in. There's a ton of aftermarket. Some shops that build them say they'll handle 500# torque. I've also read a great thing you can do is to swap out the stamped steel rear bearing retainer for a billet aluminum. While it doesn't increase torque capacity it keeps everything together much better. Under high torque loads, the stamped steel retainer stretches and deflects allowing a lot of play and slop that kills them. One shop who did road racing said since they started using the billet retainer they stopped loosing T5's. One guy I spoke with on my other forum rebuild T5's on the side, he said since he's been building them with that retainer, he hasn't had any come backs from his drag racing buddies. The last thing, you must use a good shifter. The stock one will break the shifting forks. Oh yeah, you can upgrade those as well since they break.

Don't side step the clutch with sticky tires, don't powershift especially into 3rd gear and run a good shifter.

[Scott Liggett]

Mustang guys too - not blowing the third gear shift helps almost as much as using that pedal thingy on the left (clutch)... lol. I've been pricing transmissions and even a dinosaur 4 speed Muncie close ratio is $$. The newer stuff is $$$, and I have issues with paying more for the trans than the entire rest of the car!

A T10, I question being much if any stronger, I think you have to go Super T10 to get more capacity than a 2.95 World Class t5, and I think the Z was just the gearset ($)

I see M21 Muncie close ratio's from time to time, rebuilt, for about 1000 or so. I've thought about it several times. I'm simply not ready to plop down 3500.00 for a t56. Maybe if I ever get a nice car. lmao.

What was it Scott Ligget has, an A883 I think? OD fourth gear? I see them and toploader OD's and wonder sometimes. More cubes, less shiffting?

The 833OD for me happened accidentally. I couldn't afford a TKO 5 spd or T56. My Ford friend scored it for me thinking it was a Muncie based on the 10 spline input shaft. The steep first gear really will get a car moving, but the rpm drop from 2nd to 3rd kills ET's at the track. I don't use 4th unless I hit the freeway. 3.06, 1.82, 1.0, .74 ratios.

[Huskinhano]

Scroll down the page about 1/4 page, on the LH side, $45 here's the link. http://www.rosehillperformanceparts....ducts_Page.htm

[Huskinhano]

This one but the front one is not a bad idea anyway. Most of the time the stock ones have an aluminum tube instead of steel that wears.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm surprised Mike343sharpstick hasn't weighed in - on his AMC build, he rebuilt a T-5 for road racing, and hasn't yet complained of problems.

starts at post 235 (right after my concern about t-5s) I'm nothing if not consistent

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showthread.php/3583-mike343sharpstick-s-69-Javelin-project/page24

[Huskinhano]

You have to remove the tail shaft and 5th gear to get at the retainer. Rosehill had a page on doing it but I can't seem to find it. I'll check the history on the computer I used for the previous post and make the link showing how it's done and about it. Basically they said they were road racing and about every 30 hours of use, they'd loose 5th gear. Now they haven't lost a single T5.

[Huskinhano]

FYI you can down load the whole shop manual from Tremec but have plenty of paper and ink cartridges. The T5 is a precision made trans and you'll probably need a dial indicator. Even the input shaft end play needs to be set. The shop manual says IIRC about .003" but all the shops say to keep it closer to .000-.001".

[82z]

Do you already have the pedals? 82-83 were mechanical clutch linkage cars. 84 up had the hyd. set up. I know that 4th gen parts will work for this swap as well.

[Huskinhano]

The front retainer is more durable. The stock retainer has an aluminum tube that wear from the throw out bearing sliding on it. The rear doesn't increase torque capacity but rather keeps the gears in place because it doesn't deflect. Personally I think the T5 is a good street trans for a daily driver. I never had problems with my 85, 5.0 LX. Drag raced it a few time too. I also never had problems with the 7.5" rear axle either. On the other hand some guys could break a wrecking ball. I think the T5 would live behind your 350 with stock tires and not dumping the clutch. The 89 5.0 LX my brother has that's been sitting for probably 10 years has GT40 heads, intake, shorties and a Vortex pumping 10 PSI. Still has it's stock T5 and clutch after 90,000+ miles although the T5 was getting a little noisy. It's been driven hard a few times and making more power then your 350.

[SuperBuickGuy]

IMO A t-5 would have a far better chance at surviving behind a high-reving 5.0 than a 5.7 because of the torque the 5.7 develops vs. the 5.0. I suspect that the 5.0 Vortex motor develops less hp and torque at all points of the 5.7's curve. By the time the 5.0 is in its powerband (rpm v. rpm), the 5.7 has been done for quite awhile. It's the torque, low in the powerband, not the hp that'd kill the T-5