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Project Austin street gasser.

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  • Project Austin street gasser.

    Here's my project, a 1946 Austin sedan.



    Purchased it locally in July of 2010 to use as the basis for my street legal gasser. My plan was to toss something together that I could drive the following summer, then break it down again and take it to the next level. I also planned to do upgrades all summer, as long as they didn't take more than a few days, and I could still drive it regularly.
    Started out making a list of what I wanted, and then went on a search of the local Craigslist, and swap meets. I had a limited budget for the build of under $10k, and that had to include buying the car for $1900. To complicate things more I had a single car garage, and my '71 427 Camaro is stored in there, so the build had to be done outside in the backyard! I ended up buying a $200 Costco canopy and putting a plywood floor down to build on, so the project could go forward during the winter.

    A neighbor had this 1969 Chevy 327 that was recently rebuilt, so I purchased that as the basis of a later power upgrade. Found a TH350 in the local CL with a new rebild and new converter, also had a good TransGo shift kit, so it came home too. A buddy had a narrowed 10 bolt that he was going to use on his '41 Plymouth project, but it was too narrow. It ended up at my place with the rest, so I had a drivetrain after a few weeks!
    I broke down and bought one new item; a Speedway gasser straight axle kit. Just couldn't find an old truck or van axle narrow enough to fit the Austin's little 52" wide body, so new was the way to go.
    At this point I began tearing it apart and completely gutted the car of all wiring and plumbing, plus chopped the firewall out of it.






  • #2
    Next step was to begin mocking things up. The car was very rust free, and still had original paint, so nothing needed to do to the body before jumping in! The Speedway axle was the first thing I mocked up, and it was pretty easy with the kit. The springs however were too long, so I had to remove the main leaf and the 2nd leaf and have a shorter main leaf built locally.



    Another new item needed was the headers. I ordered Fat Fender Chevy headers for the late 40's Chevy, and used them to determine where the engine needed to locate, and how much chopping I'd need to make things fit.

    I quickly realised the frame was too tall top to bottom, so sectioned it and welded the top back in.

    With the frame clearance I did a trial fit of the SBC and used 2x4's to hold it up with headers on it, and began to cut on the body also to allow a 10% engine setback.


    Mocked and tacked up the motor mounts, then moved to the rear of the car. I planned on leaf springs in the back, but couldn't get the ride height correct without major stumbling blocks, so I odered some Competition Engineering ladder bars for the rear. This way I could use coilovers and adjust them to the ride height I needed to get the slightly nose high stance I like.


    I was several weeks into the build at this time, and still good weather in August, so long hours allowed a lot to get done! More later!
    Last edited by 1946Austin; February 20, 2012, 04:56 PM.

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    • #3
      looks like a really solid start! good luck!
      Patrick & Tammy
      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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      • #4
        Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
        looks like a really solid start! good luck!
        Thanks! It's actually nearing completion having just come back from paint. I figured after lurking here for awhile I should probably do a project post and start gradually posting pics until I bring it to where I'm at today!

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        • #5
          Killer, there is aguy around here with a little black austin gasser with a SBC in it...thing looks like a handfull to drive...cant wait to see more.
          If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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          • #6
            Yeah, the 89" wheelbase can make things interesting when you get into it!

            With the engine tacked in place I mounted the trans and made the bolt in crossmember.


            In order to make the ladder bar install easier I temporarily bolted the narrowed 10 bolt to the stock leaf springs, then mocked up and tacked the new crossmembers and brackets in place. Once I had it tacked I dropped the rear axle and removed the stock springs, then mounted the coilovers and welded everything solid, plus added the upper crossmember to hold the top of the shocks.

            Top shock mount had to be above the floor pan, so holes were cut in the pan and the crossmember welded to the frame above the rearend hump. This made access to the top shock bolts behind the front seats, so easier for future shock changes if needed
            Fabbed up a panhard bar to keep it all in line, and allow adjustment side to side.

            Positioned the battery box and fuel cell inside the trunk. It will need some trimming to get enough clearance on the sides.

            Picked up the intake and carbs that will go on later. Holley polished Pro Dominator, with twin 450 Holleys.

            Got the car sitting on all four now. It's a roller!

            Next step was to get the firewall tacked back in. I wa going to pull the motor, but it was easier to get things close with engine in place. Made the firewall from 5 pieces of cardboard first, then traced it on sheetmetal and took it to a shop to have the two large pieces cut out with a plasma cutter. The 16ga. would take me too long with my jigsaw, and the torches would make a mess. Got it all tacked in.

            Also got the tranny hump tacked in with scrap pieces leftover from the firewall.

            Picked up a good used Corvair steering box from the junkyard, and mounted the box, then fabbed up the steering and supports.


            Reworked the original column and added bearings to it. Then used an old connecting rod to build a column support.

            Another junkyard find! A Subaru hanging brake pedal assembly, with power booster and master! Added some firewall reinforcement to keep flex out of the system.


            Got the fuel cell and battery box mounted, plus the new 115gph electric pump. Wanted to go mechanical, but no room between frame and engine.

            Bolted all the front sheetmetal together and split the lower fenders to make the front a one piece tilt. Used 3 Dzus fasteners to keep it latched closed. This is short term, as later I will make custom latches.

            Began mocking up the old school black faced gauges. These are Equus, and all 5 gauges were under $150, so well under my budget!

            Got a nice Autometer tach from a garage sale for just $60, so went with it. Got my NW Autowire wiring kit in, and began the process of wiring it all in. I sure don't enjoy the wirting part!

            Found a pair of old Harwood buckets at the swap meet, with harnesses for $60! Only 42" inside door to door, so these just fit!

            Also found some valve covers, so the ugly black ones went away!

            First test of the lights and switches!

            And a blinker test with the first engine firing! Click on image for sound!

            Got the used Jaguar sedan shifter installed, and floors cleaned and painted!

            Getting closer to a first drive once the driveline is shortened and installed! Got brake and fuel lines run, and wiring done. Also got a temp exhaust fabbed up. Friend had a new old system from his Firebird, and it was free, so made it fit the Austin!


            First movement under it's own power! Took a drive up the street, and after 5 months it's very close to streetable! My want ads wheels and tires! Under $300 for all four!

            Started puttting insulation/deadener on the floors, and building covers for the package area behind the front seats. $32 for insulation at Home Depot! Beats Dybamat prices, and it works great. Found it in the HVAC section. Foam back with foil, and self adhesive. 15 sq. ft. rolls for $16. Got the dividers and covers built from scrap plywood around the garage.



            After a few test runs around the block I removed the Performer intake and swapped in the Holley intake. Also found the free radiator wouldn't cool at idle, so ordered a Griffin universal from Summit. It keeps things plenty cool with the electric fan.


            Had to fab up some weird linkage for the side mount Holleys. Built a little bellcrank from scrap aluminum, and use Spectre throttle cable kit. Hardware store heims and threaded rod.

            Put down some cheap wool felt as a backer for some future carpet. Started cutting up templates and built bboards to cover the doors, then got black naugahyde from the fabric store for $6.50 a yd. on sale! Covered my panels and installed them with washer head screws.


            Wife sewed up a headliner from more fabric store material, and I made patterns from butcher paper to help her figure out what it needs. First time for interior work, so not perfect, but I've only got $130 in the whole interior, including the seats! Also welded up a little 4 point rollbar to attach the harnesses to.


            More later!
            Last edited by 1946Austin; February 21, 2012, 09:00 AM.

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            • #7
              Cool project!!! I like the stance and how you've put it all together. Gonna be a great cruiser!
              Rich

              Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017

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              • #8
                Awesome work! Not a fan of the gasser style personally but still love seeing people doing custom work at home.
                '95 S10: 350sbc/th350 (for now)
                '05 Cobalt SS: 13.4@105 (boost + money = fun)
                '03 GSXR1000: exhaust, stacks, filter, PCIII, nitrous, plenty of other stuff
                GO CAPITALS!!!!!

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                • #9
                  Sweet! amazing timeline- built in a backyard tent!
                  There's always something new to learn.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks guys! Yeah, it was pretty cold out there last winter so I found a good fan forced propane space heater on CL and used it. Amazing how warm it kept the little 10'x20' tent when it was running! I could work in a T shirt as long as it ran, but shut it off and in a few minutes it got pretty cool!
                    I drove the car all last summer to cruises and errands. Put over 3,000 miles on the odometer, and it was more fun than I've had with a car in many years!
                    A friend mentioned something about the little 327 Chevy mouse motor being so tight in that tiny engine compartment, so I got out the brushes and added this to the door:

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                    • #11
                      Drove the Austin all last summer on weekends and weeknight cruises. Between cruises I began to straighten out the rumpled body, and just shot some satin black over the finish after the repairs.


                      One thing that bugged me was the exposed body bolts on the rocker panel area. After removing the running boards the area looked pretty shabby, so I decided to weld in a rocker panel cover. Bent up some metal at a friend's sheetmetal shop, and went to work filling the exposed rockers.




                      Both rear fenders needed work from previous damage, plus I wanted to get a bead on the radiused opening, so had to bend up some 3/16" rod and weld it on the edge, then small amount of filler on driver's rear, and complete skim coat on pass. side as it was really rippled!



                      Bottom of the nose was the only bad rust. It was built so water sat in it, and eventually rusted through. Found an old inner wheelwell from a '59 Chrysler and reworked it to make a filler for the bottom. Cut out the old rotten metal and tacked in the filler, then a little putty and she was better than new!

                      Decided to shave the rear door handles and make them just open from inside. Removed the handles and cut fillers to weld in the holes. Stripped the whole door and shot it with satin black to keep it sealed and looking OK.


                      Didn't care for the Subaru square brake pedal, so I chopped it off and also cut the end of the arm off. Grabbed the old arm from the original Austin pedal and round pad, then welded them back on to give a period look and lower the pedal height 1.5" too.


                      Hood was flexing a little when opening the tilt nose, so built a rod to clear the scoop and welded it inside the rear area of the hood.

                      Also added some braces to the inside corners to stiffen things.


                      The 2" exhaust just wan't cutting it, so broke down and bought a couple 2.5" mufflers, plus some pipe and built a 2.5" system.


                      Went to a local swap meet and found a B&M Megashifter for $25 complete! No cover, so I got the HF sheetmetal brake out and bent up an aluminum cover to fit the base and boot. Way better to have a rachet shifter vs. the Jag shifter.


                      With the end of the cruise season last October I decided to tear down the engine and go through it. I found a pair of Trick Flow aluminum heads in the local Craigslist complete with ARP head bolts for $500, so the heads and a new cam with gear drive went in. The cam is a flat tappet 292/292, with .488 lift, which puts it over .500 with the 1.6 rockers. The lower end was open so I checked everything and put in the best quality bearing I could find.


                      Also picked up a pair of stud girdles and a set of stamped steel roller tip rockers in 1.6 ratio.

                      Had to get some new valve covers to clear all the extra hardware. $59 shipped to my door, and very nice quality!


                      With the engine back together and cam broken in I started on the bodywork. I wanted the hood opening to fit closer, plus shape to the scoop, and trimmed out with edging. Dug through the pieces I cut out, and made a couple fillers to weld back in.


                      Then got some 1/2x1/2 angle and welded it on the undeside of the hood, plus some edge welds and plug welds to get it really solid.



                      Time to get rid of the Dzus fasteners in the fenders, so I welded up the holes and made filler plates to install in the fender drop gaps. Welded one in top and bottom where the fenders came together.



                      Headed back to the junkyard and bought hood latches from a couple old Datun PU trucks. Put the pin in the top and latch in the bottom. Tapped out the cable release and installed a 1/4-20 2" bolt as a hidden release handle.



                      Started stripping the entire body to prep for new paint! That stripping and sanding is a tedious job, and no fun!



                      Rear roof to body seams were really rough from the factory, and you can actually see the welds! Had to grind them and beat them down to get them smooth!


                      After getting things ground and smoothed up I gave it a shot of epoxy primer.




                      After the epoxy primer I shot 2k high build and began days of blocking and minor filling. I wanted it as close as my talents could do before sending it to a pro to have the paint work done.




                      Got a local custom shop lined up to shoot color. 1975 Corvette dark red metallic. He had some final blocking and filling to do. That rear fender that took so much work just wasn't quite good enough. He said he had nearly a day to get it perfect for painting.


                      Base and clear on! I wont have it rubbbed out, as I want to keep the old rod look and it's plenty shiny without rubbing!




                      Shop delivered it back home a couple weeks ago, so it was time to reassemble it. One quick pic before the rains started again!


                      Built some aluminum plates to keep the pins from scraping up the lower drops when I close the frontend.


                      New M&H drag radials came the same day the car got home, so ran to the tire shop and had them mounted up on my ET slots.


                      Installed some weatherstripping on the cowl to keep from rubbing the paint off and getting squeaks. Also had to add that vacuum reservoir to make the power brakes work with the new cam.


                      Got all the old trim reinstalled on the frontend.



                      Reinstalled the tilt windshield.


                      Got the tail trim installed and the wheelie bars back on. Also got all the wiring reconnected and tested.



                      Have an appointment tomorrow to have the lettering redone on the sides. I painted the old stuff, but don't trust my hand with new paint, so gonna let a pro loose on it!
                      Last edited by 1946Austin; February 22, 2012, 10:06 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Looking spectacular.
                        BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                        Resident Instigator

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                          Looking spectacular.
                          Thanks Scott! It's been a fun project, on a small budget. Still well under $9k, even with the original purchase price and paint. Not much more to spend to finish, at least "finished" for now!

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                          • #14
                            Nice
                            There's always something new to learn.

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                            • #15
                              awesome job - I didn't realize you were in Portland. If you need sheet metal work done, my dad's shop is in Oregon City. He builds kitchen equipment for restaurants, but is a total car nut - and has all the cool stuff to do builds. His specialty is Stainless steel, if you're interested I'll pm you his contact info.
                              Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; February 22, 2012, 10:38 AM.
                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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