I don't know if they still do it, but the back of the Chevrolet performance parts catalog had an entire section on race prepping Corvettes. It had a really good primer on suspension theory and application. The version I had (1988 or '89 it's been so long I forget) focused almost exclusively on the C-3 'vette, maybe you can find one floating around the internets somewhere. I have read a lot of books about suspensions and IMHO this was one of the more accessible.
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Originally posted by hauen View PostI don't know if they still do it, but the back of the Chevrolet performance parts catalog had an entire section on race prepping Corvettes. It had a really good primer on suspension theory and application. The version I had (1988 or '89 it's been so long I forget) focused almost exclusively on the C-3 'vette, maybe you can find one floating around the internets somewhere. I have read a lot of books about suspensions and IMHO this was one of the more accessible.
Chev. performance parts says that the first catalog was 1989.... and I'll keep lookingLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 21, 2012, 08:30 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by langleylad View PostI have a Chevrolet Power catalog printed in May 82 , cat # MO12 . It has 25 pages on Corvette preparation . Sections include chassis , frame , front & rear suspension , clutch , transmission , rear axle & differential , brake system , & chassis modifications .
now I also wonder if that's something that is in every year.... and thanks, that's the right title to search underLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 22, 2012, 08:04 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by yellomalibu View PostIf a company doesn't give you a tracking number shortly after you place your order, I would wonder about them. It seems like every reputable company does this.
But even the big guys with great reputation does that stuff, because of my problems with iRotor; I didn't get an email from the company who makes the tubular upper control arms - so I called them. Turns out they weren't going to send the product for another 2 weeks because "they couldn't get the tubing to make the product".... 1" DOM tubing is unavailable? it does make sense because the manufacturer is in Florida (joking). ah well, at least he did three things that were right 1) he told me the problem, 2) he offered an immediate refund, and 3) he offered another product to ship on Monday. So rather then tube, it'll be round (and I'll use it as a pattern to make round arms)
and to be clear, yes, I did just say I'm going to make my own upper control arms.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 22, 2012, 08:12 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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That bolt you put in and ground flush, then added more plate over that?
I understand " pinning the frame" (it is a way to keep frame rails from collapsing/ballooning)
My questions... One going to be enough?
Did you weld the other side too?
Why not extend the inner piece into the frame a little.. (1/4" or so)
Just wondering your theory here...
I admit I do go inside more.. But then I do abuse the cars..
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If I understand your question, Bob. The plate on the inside of the arm is to keep the arm from flexing vertically and to distribute the forces over a larger area (like plating a frame that's been sectioned). Side to side motion is controlled by one arm (soon to be two arms) that bolt to the differential. In this case, I could have simply welded metal over the top and left the center hollow and would have have the same strength.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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More done:
now all of the lower control arms have poly bushings
but boy was this one a bugger to get out. I'll have to remember for next time, break cross shaft free first, then air hammer the bushings out - and all I have to say is "you are owned you b**ch"
Installed the front, larger sway bar
Installed control arms
new rear shocks
and moved around equipment. I bought a new-to-me pan brake
I keep forgetting to post this thing up. A while ago IIRC dulchich wrote an article about how to convert a wood vertical bandsaw for metal work. A few months ago, I found one that someone had done that to - a machinist moving to Arizona - so I bought it for cheap... Had I realized how handy these things are, I'd have bought one before I bought my plasma...
and now this brake is going away
and what is kind of interesting (to me anyway) is I just got plans for a 100 ton 48" brake that I will be building very, very, very soonLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 22, 2012, 05:42 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by langleylad View PostDo you want the whole thing ?
I just found this today (the last one on the list)Doing it all wrong since 1966
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A bit more done, miraculously the rotors arrived today
but first, install the rear, 2" lowering kit
don't see it? it's the bolt from the back of the control arm to the spring
According to the race prep article, removal of the dust shields to promote cooling is recommended
done
a bit of caution, though. If you drive your car routinely in the rain, or on streets they sand - you should leave them on (it's eating the back of a rotor on the Rescue Rig because there isn't a stock backing plate for that application)
Also in the last picture, I put the sway bar where the very poor instructions said they should go.... uh, no so tomorrow I'll move it 1 1/2" forward then put some end links on it
and installation of the rotors and calipers. I also replaced the front differential mount with poly. Eventually there will be substantially more done to this suspension - so right now it's kind of bandaid
waiting for the tubular upper control arms... hopefully by this weekend it'll be back on its tiresDoing it all wrong since 1966
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