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1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette

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  • http://www.classicchambered.com/
    There's always something new to learn.

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    • great idea, John.... $139 plus $16 shipping each is a bit more then my budget is able to handle....
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • well - it's a track car right? just build a few baffles into a piece of 3" tube and shove some steel wool in the end....
        There's always something new to learn.

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        • Originally posted by milner351 View Post
          well - it's a track car right? just build a few baffles into a piece of 3" tube and shove some steel wool in the end....
          that is quite close to what the Gearz thing Scott recommended is. The other issue will be mounting the pipes so it can vibrate and flex.... not sure how I'm going to accomplish that (yet)
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • is there enough room to run a flex section at the collector, then solid mount the side pipe?
            There's always something new to learn.

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            • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
              and now I have sidepipes

              You have me to thank, I have been telepathically transmitting signals to your brain for weeks...I can see that my will is strong...hmmm who is next....

              I will now attempt to convince myself to do some work on my own car...let's see how this transpires...


              as for the flex/vibe issue....can you weld some tabs to the side pipes, then affix some tabs to the body then isolate them with a rubber grommet?
              Last edited by JOES66FURY; August 9, 2012, 03:46 PM.
              If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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              • Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                is there enough room to run a flex section at the collector, then solid mount the side pipe?
                I've been considering this on my bike ride, and am pondering putting a reducer at the end of the collector, then running 2 1/2" flex inside the 4" pipe, then an either disk style, baffle, or perf style round muffler inside the pipe.... benefit of the perf style is it'd cure burned ankles because that 2' or so is directly under where you put your foot when you get out of the car.... needs more thought, but the beginnings of a plan is forming....

                Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
                You have me to thank, I have been telepathically transmitting signals to your brain for weeks...I can see that my will is strong...hmmm who is next....

                I will now attempt to convince myself to do some work on my own car...let's see how this transpires...


                as for the flex/vibe issue....can you weld some tabs to the side pipes, then affix some tabs to the body then isolate them with a rubber grommet?
                First step, Joe, is to buy a GM then you only have to work on them to make them go faster (rather then simply go)

                the problem with your suggestion (and it's how they do it on AC Cobras), is the motor moves too much - the pipes would move up and down 3" a direction.... on the Cobra, the distance from the head exhaust port is relatively close to the edge of the car... not so with the Corvette - they are roughly 18" from exhaust port to side of the car
                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                • The problem then is engine movement in relation to the car? Well that's easy... a track (read: fun street) car needs solid engine mounts. Then you don't have to worry about that small block going anywhere.
                  Bakersfield, CA.

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                  • I've done the solid motor mount, and I'm not tough enough to survive with them

                    anyway, a step closer

                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • What do mean "survive" with solid mounts? You aren't [I]keeping[I] this car are you? (sarcasm font needed) Just kiddin man. Enjoy.
                      Bakersfield, CA.

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                      • wow - that was a quick transition to one solid color. Your energy and work ethic are inspiring.
                        There's always something new to learn.

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                        • alright, if you have that much play you could make sliders. We use these in ares on the engine that have a lot of flex but cannot be soft mounted or have a flex tube built in.

                          imagine a inch wide piece of flat stock about an 4 inches long. cut the center out just wide enough for a bolt to fit, make another the same way. Then install teflon washers under the bolt and nut head going thru the two and a thin teflon washer between the two pieces of flat stock. tighten down the bolt to the point where it will move but only with force...two on each side should give you enough movement and support to avoid cracks....i hope my explanation is as clear to you as it is to me...i can visualize it...

                          edit, a castalated nut with a cotter pin would keep it from backing off.
                          Last edited by JOES66FURY; August 10, 2012, 07:34 AM.
                          If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                          • Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
                            alright, if you have that much play you could make sliders. We use these in ares on the engine that have a lot of flex but cannot be soft mounted or have a flex tube built in.

                            imagine a inch wide piece of flat stock about an 4 inches long. cut the center out just wide enough for a bolt to fit, make another the same way. Then install teflon washers under the bolt and nut head going thru the two and a thin teflon washer between the two pieces of flat stock. tighten down the bolt to the point where it will move but only with force...two on each side should give you enough movement and support to avoid cracks....i hope my explanation is as clear to you as it is to me...i can visualize it...

                            edit, a castalated nut with a cotter pin would keep it from backing off.
                            how is the weight supported by the (what I'm viewing) metal limiting straps? Also, teflon doesn't like heat, and I bet these things get pretty warm (not hot, but warm)
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Originally posted by cantvalve16 View Post
                              What do mean "survive" with solid mounts? You aren't [I]keeping[I] this car are you? (sarcasm font needed) Just kiddin man. Enjoy.
                              You did notice about page 5 or so where I said I was keeping whichever car didn't sell first (the Skylark or the Corvette).... the Skylark is in New York.
                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                              • So are you going to be SuperVetteGuy now ?

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