1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette

[Beagle]

pretty much all of my memory of p.c. includes a nickel sized battery saying you didn't really turn it off. I've had to pull batteries on honery (sp) pc's to get them to turn "off" before. It's a figurative term on any small device these days, they never really turn off.

Anyway... what happened with the mufflers?

[SuperBuickGuy]

The EZ system doesn't reset when you unplug - it just doesn't have an "off" button (boo)

[Beagle]

If I were an engineer I would have a label for a reset button that says "reset". Oh wait, I am an engineer. I also vehemently believe that every electronic device should have a true power off button. But that's just me...

I don't wanna reset the clock and tell it about my accessories every time I start the pooter... just sayin.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I agree, but there's nothing to do about it now.

[1970camaroRS]

If I were an engineer I would have a label for a reset button that says "reset". Oh wait, I am an engineer. I also vehemently believe that every electronic device should have a true power off button. But that's just me...

[SuperBuickGuy]

they did... new gauge is on its way. Apparently, the "power" button on the handheld is not really a power button but a reset button.... so you have to disconnect the handheld if you want it to shut off... a bit annoying.... ah well

[yellomalibu]

I got the speed bleeders in all four calipers on my Skylark and since then have had zero issues getting the air out of the lines. I had to disconnect the rear brake line to swap out the rear axle, which then proceeded to drain my rear resevoir as I didn't cap or plug the brake line. Hooked it up, topped off the resevoir, opened both bleeders (with hoses on them going to a drain pan), laid into the pedal a dozen times until the resevoir was low, topped it off, then openned the right rear, hit the pedal with a combination of fast short pulses and a couple long full travel ones, topped off the resevoir, repeated for the left side. Then for the heck of it I laid a cinder block on the brake pedal and cracked each bleeder to observe the fluid and neither had any air come out. I had to do a brake caliper adjustment (pain in the rear, 70's GM rear calipers do not auto adjust well...) because excessive travel of the piston made the pedal low and soft, but once I turned the pistons out and tightened up the clearances the pedal is rock solid.

Completely new every brake component in the new rear end I put in the chevelle; totally dry hose, lines, and wheel cylinders. After attaching the hose to the hard line on the car, opened both bleeders, removed the top of the master cylinder, then went in the house. Five or ten minutes later, both sides were dripping nicely. Done.

- and Comcast gave me that "call back" option, or I could wait approximately one minute... I waited.

...it's been hours, has FAST called back?

[TheSilverBuick]

I did the helper way.... there was still air. That said, if you look at where the master cylinder is in relation to the calipers, there isn't that much vertical distance between the two and there's a deep down then back up... which is why I trusted my mechanic friend when he said it needed to be power bled (Okay, honestly, I trust him because he's trustworthy - but I didn't even skeptically consider what he said - that gravity and friend bleeding would have a different result - because he said it)

I got the speed bleeders in all four calipers on my Skylark and since then have had zero issues getting the air out of the lines. I had to disconnect the rear brake line to swap out the rear axle, which then proceeded to drain my rear resevoir as I didn't cap or plug the brake line. Hooked it up, topped off the resevoir, opened both bleeders (with hoses on them going to a drain pan), laid into the pedal a dozen times until the resevoir was low, topped it off, then openned the right rear, hit the pedal with a combination of fast short pulses and a couple long full travel ones, topped off the resevoir, repeated for the left side. Then for the heck of it I laid a cinder block on the brake pedal and cracked each bleeder to observe the fluid and neither had any air come out. I had to do a brake caliper adjustment (pain in the rear, 70's GM rear calipers do not auto adjust well...) because excessive travel of the piston made the pedal low and soft, but once I turned the pistons out and tightened up the clearances the pedal is rock solid.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Call FAST - phones are pretty busy but they have (IMO) the greatest thing in customer service - call back. You just enter your phone number and they call you back when your place in line is reached.... way to go FAST!

[SuperBuickGuy]

Last I checked, fiberglass doesn't like fire. That's actually a very interesting failure mode, should have taken a lot of force to do that.

I'm not an engineer - my diagnosis included "hmm, it's leaking" and "wow, that's weird what happened to the face" then finally "I bet that would catch on fire if I drove it more".... I was trying to avoid the "ooohhh, pretty fire, is that a Ferrari?" comments.

[1970camaroRS]

Last I checked, fiberglass doesn't like fire. That's actually a very interesting failure mode, should have taken a lot of force to do that.

[SuperBuickGuy]

This was the gauge on the EZ Efi system. It broke from the inside out


yep was leaking fuel right onto my header... yep, God was watching over me again. I got to a car show about 1 hour away, and a guy was admiring my car - then said "do you know your fuel pressure regulator is leaking?" "uh, no, I didn't".... fortunately NAPA was open so 1 - 1/8" plug and I was back to putting fumes out of the exhaust only.... can't wait to hear what EZ has to say.... frightening.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I did the helper way.... there was still air. That said, if you look at where the master cylinder is in relation to the calipers, there isn't that much vertical distance between the two and there's a deep down then back up... which is why I trusted my mechanic friend when he said it needed to be power bled (Okay, honestly, I trust him because he's trustworthy - but I didn't even skeptically consider what he said - that gravity and friend bleeding would have a different result - because he said it)

[yellomalibu]

For some reason, on the Chevelle, I have always gotten the best results gravity bleeding. Whenever I tried doing it the "helper" way, the pedal was mushy.

[SuperBuickGuy]

brakes are bled, and are more predictable. I think they can be better - but for now, I've got other things to do.... like timing