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1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette

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  • Call FAST - phones are pretty busy but they have (IMO) the greatest thing in customer service - call back. You just enter your phone number and they call you back when your place in line is reached.... way to go FAST!
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
      I did the helper way.... there was still air. That said, if you look at where the master cylinder is in relation to the calipers, there isn't that much vertical distance between the two and there's a deep down then back up... which is why I trusted my mechanic friend when he said it needed to be power bled (Okay, honestly, I trust him because he's trustworthy - but I didn't even skeptically consider what he said - that gravity and friend bleeding would have a different result - because he said it)
      I got the speed bleeders in all four calipers on my Skylark and since then have had zero issues getting the air out of the lines. I had to disconnect the rear brake line to swap out the rear axle, which then proceeded to drain my rear resevoir as I didn't cap or plug the brake line. Hooked it up, topped off the resevoir, opened both bleeders (with hoses on them going to a drain pan), laid into the pedal a dozen times until the resevoir was low, topped it off, then openned the right rear, hit the pedal with a combination of fast short pulses and a couple long full travel ones, topped off the resevoir, repeated for the left side. Then for the heck of it I laid a cinder block on the brake pedal and cracked each bleeder to observe the fluid and neither had any air come out. I had to do a brake caliper adjustment (pain in the rear, 70's GM rear calipers do not auto adjust well...) because excessive travel of the piston made the pedal low and soft, but once I turned the pistons out and tightened up the clearances the pedal is rock solid.
      Last edited by TheSilverBuick; June 17, 2013, 10:42 AM.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
        I got the speed bleeders in all four calipers on my Skylark and since then have had zero issues getting the air out of the lines. I had to disconnect the rear brake line to swap out the rear axle, which then proceeded to drain my rear resevoir as I didn't cap or plug the brake line. Hooked it up, topped off the resevoir, opened both bleeders (with hoses on them going to a drain pan), laid into the pedal a dozen times until the resevoir was low, topped it off, then openned the right rear, hit the pedal with a combination of fast short pulses and a couple long full travel ones, topped off the resevoir, repeated for the left side. Then for the heck of it I laid a cinder block on the brake pedal and cracked each bleeder to observe the fluid and neither had any air come out. I had to do a brake caliper adjustment (pain in the rear, 70's GM rear calipers do not auto adjust well...) because excessive travel of the piston made the pedal low and soft, but once I turned the pistons out and tightened up the clearances the pedal is rock solid.
        Completely new every brake component in the new rear end I put in the chevelle; totally dry hose, lines, and wheel cylinders. After attaching the hose to the hard line on the car, opened both bleeders, removed the top of the master cylinder, then went in the house. Five or ten minutes later, both sides were dripping nicely. Done.

        - and Comcast gave me that "call back" option, or I could wait approximately one minute... I waited.

        ...it's been hours, has FAST called back?
        Last edited by yellomalibu; June 17, 2013, 06:24 PM.

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        • they did... new gauge is on its way. Apparently, the "power" button on the handheld is not really a power button but a reset button.... so you have to disconnect the handheld if you want it to shut off... a bit annoying.... ah well
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • If I were an engineer I would have a label for a reset button that says "reset". Oh wait, I am an engineer. I also vehemently believe that every electronic device should have a true power off button. But that's just me...
            1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
            1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

            1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

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            • I agree, but there's nothing to do about it now.
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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              • Originally posted by 1970camaroRS View Post
                If I were an engineer I would have a label for a reset button that says "reset". Oh wait, I am an engineer. I also vehemently believe that every electronic device should have a true power off button. But that's just me...
                I don't wanna reset the clock and tell it about my accessories every time I start the pooter... just sayin.
                Last edited by Beagle; June 20, 2013, 06:21 AM.
                Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                • The EZ system doesn't reset when you unplug - it just doesn't have an "off" button (boo)
                  Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 21, 2013, 02:41 PM.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • pretty much all of my memory of p.c. includes a nickel sized battery saying you didn't really turn it off. I've had to pull batteries on honery (sp) pc's to get them to turn "off" before. It's a figurative term on any small device these days, they never really turn off.

                    Anyway... what happened with the mufflers?
                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                    • Originally posted by Beagle View Post

                      Anyway... what happened with the mufflers?
                      Expect an answer along the lines of "huh, say again?"
                      I'm still learning

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                      • huh?
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • Originally posted by yellomalibu View Post
                          Flushing brake fluid is something that rarely gets done. The hygroscopic nature of brake fluid attracting water, over many years (decades) probably leads to the internal rusting of the lines.

                          ... or maybe I'm over thinking it and it's just that steel brake lines rust after a while.

                          no rust, and not a r.p.i.t.a to bend like s/s
                          Last edited by NewEnglandRaceFan; June 22, 2013, 01:52 AM.

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                          • Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
                            http://www.agscompany.com/automotive...n-lines/nicopp
                            no rust, and not a r.p.i.t.a to bend like s/s
                            I was really amazed at how easily the SSBC brake lines were to bend.... but I agree with you, stainless, in general, is a pain to bend
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                              huh?
                              I lost track of what happened with the baffles - what did you end up doing with them?

                              I was done talking about computers. I bet all the A.D.D people in the room realized I changed tracks!
                              Last edited by Beagle; June 22, 2013, 05:40 AM.
                              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Beagle View Post
                                I lost track of what happened with the baffles - what did you end up doing with them?

                                I was done talking about computers. I bet all the A.D.D people in the room realized I changed tracks!
                                they do, but now they're focused on something else

                                there are today projects and there are other projects - the baffle thing falls under "other" ... just like my promised drive line shortening posts
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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